Which mechanical watch should you buy for the first time? Five recommended models priced under ¥200,000!

2025.04.11

We've picked out five recommended models for your first mechanical watch. This time, we've selected models priced under 200,000 yen, focusing on high-quality brands, including three well-established Japanese manufacturers.

Seiko Mechanical Divers 1965 Heritage

Written by Tsubasa Nojima
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 21, 2024]
2025/4/11 update


Introducing 5 masterpieces that are sure to be a hit!

Mechanical watches, which keep time using the unwinding power of a mainspring, have captivated many watch enthusiasts with their warm sound and feel, and the finish and mechanisms that sometimes even make you feel the breath of the craftsman. This has not changed even in today's world, where quartz watches, which are overwhelmingly more practical, have become widespread. In fact, mechanical watches are gaining more attention every year, as if they are cherished for the inconveniences unique to mechanical watches.

However, when it comes to actually getting your hands on a mechanical watch, you may find it difficult to know what to choose. The price range starts at a few tens of thousands of yen and goes up by an unlimited amount, and with new information on new technologies and emerging brands being released every day, it can be overwhelming to even keep up with the information.

So, this time, we've picked out and introduced the perfect models to make your first mechanical watch. All of them feature easy-to-use automatic movements, and are masterpieces that are robust and offer the charm of a mechanical watch. The selection criteria were relatively affordable, with retail prices of under 200,000 yen, so you're sure to find value beyond the price. Welcome to the gateway to the world of mechanical watches, where the wisdom of humanity has been brought together.


Seiko Prospex "Mechanical Divers 1965 Heritage" Ref. SBDC197

For active people, we recommend the Seiko Prospex diver's watch. The SBDC197 is a model that follows the design of the first domestically produced 150m water-resistant diver's watch, released by Seiko in 1965. It features sharp case lines and square-shaped indices, giving it a relatively simple appearance for a diver's watch.

Not only does it have excellent functionality, such as a highly visible black dial, a date display at 4:30, and a unidirectional rotating bezel that can measure elapsed time, but it is also water resistant to 300m, making it suitable for actual diving.

The watch is equipped with the Cal. 6R55 automatic movement, the latest version of Seiko's flagship Cal. 6R series, which boasts high reliability and a long power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

With its simple design, high water resistance, and a size that fits comfortably on the wrist, this watch is sure to be useful in a wide range of situations, both on and off the job. But that's not all that's appealing about this watch. Seiko diver's watches are professional tools beloved by explorers and divers around the world. The romance of having one on your wrist will bring you a satisfaction that's hard to beat.

セイコー ブルスペックス メカニカルダイバーズ 1965 ヘリテージ

Seiko Prospex "Mechanical Divers 1965 Heritage" Ref. SBDC197
This model inherits the design of Seiko's first diver's watch, released in 1965. It boasts 300m water resistance, the highest specs for a Seiko air diving diver's watch. Automatic movement (Cal. 6R55). 24 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 13mm). 300m water resistance. 176,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012


Citizen Promaster "Mechanical GMT" Ref. NB6046-59E

This pilot's watch with a GMT function is perfect for those who work overseas or who love to travel. The red GMT hand and 24-hour bezel allow you to read the time in a second time zone. The hour hand can be adjusted independently by turning the crown, making it easy to correct time differences when traveling abroad.

One of its charms is its excellent visibility, as befits a pilot's watch. The indexes and hands are coated with luminous paint, making it possible to check the time clearly even in the dark. An aviation slide rule is placed around the outer edge of the dial, and can be used for actual calculations using the crown at 8 o'clock.

The large 44.5mm case is designed with user-friendliness in mind. The rounded bezel and smooth bracelet are designed to prevent snagging, and the overall case thickness is kept to just 12.7mm. It's also water resistant to 20 bar, which is a great feature.

The watch is equipped with Citizen's thin automatic movement, the Cal. 90 series. This type of movement is also sold by other companies, and its high reliability is evident from its track record of adoption by many micro brands.

Citizen Promaster "Mechanical GMT" Ref. NB6046-59E
A genuine pilot's watch with a GMT function and an aviation slide rule. Its appeal lies not only in its excellent visibility but also its high water resistance. Automatic (Cal. 9054). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 44.5mm, thickness 12.7mm). Water resistant to 20 bar. 148,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Citizen Customer Watch Consultation Center 0120-78-4807


Orient Star "M34 F7 Semi-Skeleton" Ref.RK-BY0001A

Orient Star has gained popularity and established a unique position thanks to its unique design and functionality. The M34 F7 Semi-Skeleton, in particular, has a structure that exposes part of the movement, allowing you to visually appreciate the appeal of mechanical watches.

The mother-of-pearl dial, with its vibrant blue-green gradation, is inspired by the aurora borealis, a luminous phenomenon observed in the polar regions. The mysterious dial, which changes its appearance depending on the light and type of light source, is sure to captivate anyone who sees it.

The watch is also highly functional, with a small seconds hand at 6 o'clock and a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock that displays the remaining power of the mainspring. The M34 in the collection's name is an abbreviation for the star cluster in the constellation Perseus. The sharp lugs of the case and the straight hour and minute hands give it a powerful presence, reminiscent of Perseus, the hero of Greek mythology.

Equipped with the in-house automatic movement Cal. F7F44, the beating balance can be enjoyed through the aperture at 9 o'clock on the dial. In addition, a see-through case back is also used, allowing you to view the finish applied to the bridges and rotor from the case back.

Orient Star M34 F7 Semi-Skeleton

Orient Star "M34 F7 Semi-Skeleton" Ref.RK-BY0001A
The appeal of this watch is its unique design, typical of Orient Star. The semi-skeleton design allows you to directly see the beating of the movement, making it a suitable first watch. Automatic (Cal. F7F44). 24 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 143,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Orient Customer Service Tel. 042-847-3380


Tissot "Tissot PRX Powermatic 80" Ref. T137.407.11.041.00

Tissot is a long-established Swiss brand founded in 1853, known for its affordable pricing and classic design. The Tissot PRX we're introducing today is a reissue of the model of the same name that the company released in 1978. Among the extensive lineup of models, including different sizes, functions, and movement types, we recommend the 40mm blue dial model as your first mechanical watch.

The distinctive feature of this watch is its versatility, which can be used in any situation thanks to its simple design. The calm blue dial matches a wide range of outfits, from suits to casual fashion.

In addition, the watch's strap is an interchangeable system that allows it to be easily removed from the case by simply operating a lever with your fingernail. In addition to the stainless steel bracelet, rubber straps and leather straps are also available, allowing you to expand the range of enjoyment by purchasing a variety of straps.

The exterior quality is also unmatched in this price range, with the case and bracelet featuring sharp edges giving it the appearance of a luxury sports watch.

The movement is equipped with Cal. Powermatic 80, which has a long power reserve of approximately 80 hours and is resistant to magnetism, the enemy of mechanical watches. The movement of the balance and rotor can be enjoyed from the case back.

Tissot PRX

Tissot "Tissot PRX Powermatic 80" Ref. T137.407.11.041.00
It's no exaggeration to say that the Tissot PRX is Tissot's biggest hit in recent years. With its simple design and wide selection of straps, it can be worn in any situation. Automatic (Cal. Powermatic 80). 23 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 107,800 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Tissot Tel. 03-6254-5321


Hamilton "Khaki Field Expedition" Ref. H70315130

Hamilton was founded in Pennsylvania, USA in 1892. The company has earned immense trust through its excellent railroad and military watches, and is a brand brimming with pioneering spirit, having introduced the world's first battery-powered wristwatch in 1957. The Khaki Field Expedition is an adventure watch that takes the practicality cultivated in military watches and updates them for the modern era.

The simple, bold dial with no date display is black with white Arabic numerals for excellent legibility. The arrow-shaped hour hand and pencil-shaped minute hand are clearly different in shape and cannot be confused, and the cream-colored luminous paint gives it a vintage feel.

The rotating bezel functions as a simple compass, allowing you to determine your direction using the sun. The case and bracelet are generally satin-finished, giving it a modern look. The easy-to-operate crown is screw-down, allowing for safe use even in bad weather.

The movement is the Caliber H-10, which boasts a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It is a sibling of the Caliber Powermatic 80 used in the Tissot PRX. It uses a Nivachron balance spring, which offers excellent anti-magnetic, shock-resistant, and temperature-resistant properties.

Khaki Field Expedition

Photograph by Masanori Yoshie
Hamilton "Khaki Field Expedition" Ref. H70315130
The Khaki Field Expedition has a sophisticated design, derived from a military watch. It combines a tough exterior with a high-spec movement. Automatic (Cal. H-10). 25 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 11.5mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 165,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Hamilton/Swatch Group Japan Tel. 03-6254-7371


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