A Watch Lover's Life: SM: "I fell in love at first sight with the store manager wearing a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse."

2024.06.07

Generally, the more a collector is absorbed in their field, the more they tend to collect items from a particular brand or a particular era. For example, it is not uncommon to see collectors who have a collection based on a theme, such as Seiko manual-winding models from the 1960s or Rolex sports models. However, SM, a young businessman who runs an advertising agency, has tastes that are different from most others. He has no bias towards any particular brand, and boasts a wide-ranging collection that ranges from antiques to current models. Each and every watch in his collection gives us a glimpse into S's unique collecting philosophy.

SM-san
Born in 1985, he is a young businessman who runs an advertising agency. He first started an import agency in 2002. In 2014, at the age of 29, he launched his own advertising agency, which he continues to run to this day. "I'm from the generation that experienced the evolution of computers firsthand during my impressionable teenage years. That's why I'm drawn to good old mechanical watches," he says.


"We collect watches that best represent the best of each era and brand."

Vacheron Constantin Antique Watches

SM, who regularly wears antique watches, has one of his favorites: a Vacheron Constantin 18K yellow gold antique chronograph, model 4083. He purchased it at the Heritage Exhibition (Les Collectionneurs) held at a boutique in Ginza in 2018. The small case diameter is said to be popular with young women today. Apart from watches, his hobby is collecting fountain pens, which he also uses on a daily basis.

 SM's collection is diverse. From exquisite antique Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to current Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet watches, there are both old and new watches with different looks and functions. At first glance, it may seem disjointed, but Mr. S says that it is a collection that has been put together under a certain philosophy.

"Antique watches have a charm that cannot be fully described in a few words, such as the unique texture they acquire over time and the level of craftsmanship that is impossible to achieve today. On the other hand, I think that current models have their own unique merits. I collect watches that fully demonstrate the merits of each era and brand."

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time

Vacheron Constantin's Overseas Dual Time. With its beautiful deep blue dial, it's a modern luxury sporty watch. "I came across this one while looking for a watch to wear in the summer. I wear it outdoors, where antique watches aren't suitable, and with casual outfits. The bracelet is crafted with high precision and is extremely comfortable to wear," says SM.

 Mr. S's career is just as varied as the watches lined up on the shelves. He worked in the music industry for a period in his twenties, and is a genuine hobbyist who has a deep knowledge of anime and manga. In addition to watches, he also collects fountain pens. Mr. S grew up in a wealthy family, with his grandfather being a successful businessman and his parents also running businesses. Perhaps because many of his classmates were the sons of company presidents, Mr. S started his own business at the tender age of 16.

"I started a business acting as an import agent for brand-name goods, and by riding the trend, I was able to make a profit. When I was 18, I used the proceeds to buy a Franck Muller Casablanca watch. It wasn't so much that I was interested in watches, but rather that I wanted to stand out in front of others."

Franck Muller "Casablanca"

Mr. S's first mechanical watch, purchased at the age of 18, was a Franck Muller Casablanca. Mr. S says he chose it for its appearance, but it also has elements that are similar to antique watches, such as the Byzantine numeral dial and the beautiful finish of the curved case. Although he has fewer opportunities to wear it now, he says it is a watch he cannot let go of as a keepsake.

 However, during a casual visit to Dazzling, a watch shop in Harajuku, Mr. S opened the door to the world of antique watches.

"I fell in love at first sight with the store manager, who was wearing a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. We ended up talking for about three hours. He told me about the meticulous craftsmanship that was evident in the watch, and how I could own a historical masterpiece worth the price of an entire house. When I left the store, I couldn't get antique watches out of my head."

 Without this encounter, the watch would have gone to Casablanca. It's interesting that Mr. S, who had been familiar with computers since childhood and did most of his work on digital devices in his twenties, suddenly became interested in mechanical watches, especially antique watches. At the age of 29, he finally purchased a Patek Philippe Calatrava 2526 "Tropical." His first antique watch also had a positive effect on Mr. S's business.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2526

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2526 was manufactured in the 1950s. Both the dial and the yellow gold case are in excellent condition. When he is unsure which watch to wear, this is his top pick. "One of the criteria I have when buying a watch is that it is something I can wear even when I'm 100 years old. This Calatrava is a prime candidate. It's undoubtedly a masterpiece."

"I started my current advertising agency at the age of 29, and when I spoke to older people, I realized that antique watches could be a conversation starter that transcended generations. There aren't many businessmen of my generation who wear antique watches on a daily basis. Even now, it's not uncommon for people to say to me, 'That's a nice watch.'"

 Thus, the Calatrava 2526 became Mr. S's go-to watch for crucial moments. He also likes the antique chronograph he purchased at the Vacheron Constantin Ginza boutique in 2018.

Audemars Piguet "Royal Oak Frosted Gold Chronograph"

Audemars Piguet's "Royal Oak Frosted Gold Chronograph." The frosted gold of the case and bracelet is beautiful. "It may look like a flashy watch, but the charm of it is the unexpected fusion of old and new watchmaking techniques," says Mr. S.

"I also own an Overseas Dual Time, but surprisingly, it's antique chronographs that are popular with women. They often say they're cute. Some people wear flashy watches just to stand out, but I think antique watches are actually more eye-catching."

 This is a discovery that only Mr. S, who regularly wears antique watches, could make. Mr. S, who also has a deep interest in fashion, skillfully chooses between antique and current models depending on the outfit and the occasion.

A. Lange & Söhne "Datograph"

Mr. S says that his favorite current watch is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. In fact, he is a big fan of independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour. "I've always wanted to own one ever since I heard that Dufour not only praised the Datograph highly, but that it was one of the few watches he bought with his own money. I just couldn't resist buying one."

"The style of suits was perfected by the mid-20th century. In that case, I think antique watches from that time, especially those with a diameter of 35mm or less, would be a good fit. On the other hand, watches around 40mm, which are common today, are easy to coordinate with casual fashion for off-duty wear. Also, current models have excellent functionality, such as water resistance, which means they can be used in ways that are difficult for antique watches to wear."

 Because there is no watch that perfectly meets one's needs, it makes sense to buy both antique and current models. For Mr. S, the Vacheron Constantin Ginza boutique, where both are on display, is one of his favorite watch shops.

"The manufacturer itself maintains the antique watches before selling them, so you can be absolutely sure of their quality. Another great thing about them is that they offer current models that make use of the designs of classic watches, which is something that other brands don't have."

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Automatic Chronograph Ref. 5960

The watch he was wearing on the day of the interview was a Patek Philippe Ref. 5960 automatic chronograph with an annual calendar. It's a highly practical stainless steel model with an annual calendar. The red used on the chronograph hands and other parts makes a great accent color, and the watch's appearance attracted him, so he decided to buy it. However, it was discontinued a few years after Mr. S bought it, so it's now difficult to find.

 Where does Vacheron Constantin, which so fascinates him, and Swiss craftsmanship come from? To find out, Mr. S is planning his first trip to Switzerland this spring. He plans to spend about eight days visiting famous sites associated with watches, including the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Geneva. What kind of watch will Mr. S choose to accompany him on his trip to Switzerland?

"I'm actually undecided, but I thought it would be a good idea to bring antique Patek Philippe and Vacheron back to their 'hometowns'."

 Mr. S was already excited before his departure. He was sure to discover a new charm in watches in his dream country of Switzerland.

Writing Instrument Collection

Mr. S has a wide range of hobbies beyond watches. This is his collection of writing instruments. All of them are Montblanc, and from the right, they are a vintage ballpoint pen from the 1980s, a Walt Disney special edition fountain pen, and a ballpoint pen he bought to match his wife. "I've been using them ever since I realized that writing on paper helps me get my work done more efficiently. The appeal of my collection of watches and writing instruments is that I can use them on a daily basis."


The Life of a Watch Enthusiast KH: "Jaeger-LeCoultre has a story behind it."

http://www.webchronos.net/features/115582/
Antique Watch Guide Part 1

http://www.webchronos.net/iconic/92218/
Antique Vacheron Constantin Watches: A Look at Their History and Appeal

http://www.webchronos.net/features/74623/