Pékinnier "Concorde": A review of the elegant and gentle sporty chic model

We present our impressions of the 40mm "Concord" model, released by French watch brand Péquigner to mark the brand's 50th anniversary in 2023. This model boasts a sporty chic design, typical of Péquigner's watches, and thanks to the in-house Calibre Initial movement, the finished watch is just 9.25mm thick. Its elegant and gentle design complements a jacket style well. We hope this watch will appeal to users who appreciate the appeal of watches after gaining a deep, multifaceted understanding of the history of the watch industry, the brand's philosophy, and the background of its design.

A brief history of the watch industry

　Switzerland is the center of the modern mechanical watch industry, and the statistics bear this out. The watch industry is thriving in the western part of Switzerland, the area bordering France, with representative examples being Geneva, Le Locle, and La Chaux-de-Fonds. I encourage you to take a look at a map.

　The roots of the watch industry in western Switzerland are deeply connected to French history, particularly the history of religious persecution. As Protestant Christianity emerged in the mid-16th century and spread, its teachings affirming hard work resonated well with artisans and spread among watchmakers. However, persecution of Protestants in France intensified in the late 16th and 17th centuries. To escape this persecution, watchmakers migrated to western Switzerland near France, which is said to have laid the foundations for the watch industry as it exists today. The history of the watch industry can be roughly understood by noting that the long-established Vacheron Constantin was founded in Geneva in 1755.

Péquigné aims to revive the French manufacture

　While the watch industry remained in France after 1775, with Abraham-Louis Breguet active in Paris, the traditional watch industry declined significantly with the quartz revolution of the 1970s. Against this historical backdrop, Péquignet, founded in 1973, aimed to revive the "French manufacture." Recognized by the French government as a "company with traditional or highly specialized skills that have been passed down since ancient times in a specific region," Péquignet has been designated an Enterprise of Intangible Cultural Heritage (EPV). It produces watches at its own workshop in Morteau, which opened in 2006. With financial support from the French government, the company developed its own in-house movement, the Calibre Royal, which was released in 2011.

　The Calibre Royal is manufactured with a design philosophy that improves power transmission efficiency while achieving multi-functionality without relying on modular implementation. As a result, the "Royal" collection, which is equipped with this movement, features models that combine classic and contemporary designs with multiple functions neatly arranged. Although there are many points to be said about this movement and model, it is undeniable that this collection is more popular with connoisseurs than with a wide range of people.

The new "Concorde" was announced on the occasion of Péquigné's 50th anniversary.

　The "Concord" we'll be reviewing today is a bracelet model with a sporty chic design, part of a collection announced to mark the 50th anniversary of Péquignet's founding in 2023. It is paired with the "Calibre Initiale (Cal. EMP03)," a newly developed automatic movement announced in 2021. The Calibre Initiale debuted in 2021 when it was fitted to the classic dress watch "Attitude," and the Concord is its second model. In addition to the 40mm model we'll be reviewing, a 36mm model with the same design will also be available.

　The Concorde was designed with inspiration from the Place de la Concorde, which has a deep connection to French history. This inspiration can be seen in the combination of a square case with a circular dial and the oval hour and minute hands. The silhouette gives the impression of a perfect square, partly due to the extremely short lugs. The bracelet attachment part has a notch that samples the obelisk of the Place de la Concorde, and the bracelet has a repeating design of this notch.

High-quality bracelet with a low center of gravity

　Because Péquigne Manufacture's previous models have a very limited bracelet lineup, I was a little worried about the quality of the watch before receiving it, but it exceeded my expectations with a comfortable fit. The links are thin, allowing for a wide range of movement and smooth movement. The bracelet is not tapered, and all links have visible fixing screws. All links can be disassembled and replaced, allowing for flexible length adjustment.

　Because the bracelet is not tapered, it feels physically and visually heavy, but it is well balanced with the head. This is also due to the watch's finished thickness of 9.25mm and the low center of gravity. The case design and crystal are flat, highlighting the thinness of the watch.

　With its short lugs and wide range of movement for both the lugs and bracelet, it will likely fit users with both thin and thick wrists. When comparing the 40mm and 36mm case sizes, the 40mm felt substantial, while the 36mm model felt slightly larger than its numerical size would suggest. For someone with a wrist circumference of approximately 18cm, no matter which one I choose, I think the 36mm, with its tighter lugs, would be a better fit for those with thinner wrists. The wide lug and bracelet design, combined with the two sizes available, makes this a lineup that will suit a fairly wide range of wrist sizes.

The perfection of the Calibre Initial (Cal. EMP03)

　Péquigné offers three in-house movements: the Calibre Royal (Cal. EMP01), the Calibre Royal Manual (Cal. EMP02), and this watch's Calibre Initial (Cal. EMP03). The Cal. EMP02 is a hand-wound movement that is a simplified redesign of the Cal. EMP01, while the Cal. EMP03 is a completely new design. Unlike the Cal. EMP01, the Cal. EMP03 is designed with modularity in mind, likely as a core movement for the next generation. As with previous movements, many of the components are manufactured in France, with 72% of the Cal. EMP03's components manufactured in France, the remainder being Swiss.

　When I picked it up and set the time, the crown felt just the right weight yet smooth to operate, with little play between moving the crown forward and backward, making for a good feel. Cal. EMP01 felt light to operate, so I felt this aspect of Cal. EMP03 was preferable. The date change was clear and quick. Furthermore, there are no time periods during which calendar operation is prohibited. The power reserve is approximately 65 hours. Although I was unable to conduct a rigorous test, it operated reliably over long periods of time.

　The movement can be viewed from the case back, and the oscillating weight is decorated with the familiar French "fleur-de-lis" (the iris flower emblem) and a fontaine-shaped cutout. The plate and bridge are decorated with collimation, also known as escargot decoration. This is a shallow, elegant finish that spreads radially from the axis of rotation of the balance wheel. The circular graining on the outer periphery is also intricate. Although it would be better if it were chamfered, I felt that it was a high-quality finish for a practical watch.

Concorde is an informal watch with a gentle and calm impression.

　The Concorde is classified as a sporty model among Péquigne's watches, but it matches well with a jacket style like the one shown in the example, and I think it would be more appropriate to classify it as a multi-purpose informal watch.

　Looking at the details again, the softly curved case and bezel, circular dial, and oval hour and minute hands are iconic, while the linear indexes that contrast with them tighten the overall impression. The bezel, top surface of the case, and bracelet are based on a finely textured, elegant satin finish, while the sloped parts of the bezel and the edges of the case are polished, giving it a calm and refined look. These finishes and the thin construction give it an understated, elegant, refined, and gentle impression rather than a sporty one.

　Looking around the informal watch market, there are many round case models that resemble dress watches and edgy, "cool" designs, but it seems that models that give off a "cute" or "gentle" impression like the Concorde are in the minority.

　The Place de la Concorde has undergone many twists and turns in its history, leading to its current name, which means "affinity." Taking this background into account, this piece has been crafted as a gentle and calm model.

The type of customer who chooses the understated and elegant Concorde

　Ugu Souparis, owner and president of PékinierHe describes the ideal Péquignet customer as "someone with a free spirit who likes beautiful things, who doesn't like to show off, and who likes quiet luxury." Indeed, the Concorde is a model that perfectly fits this ideal customer profile.

　As a watch made by Péquigner, a French company that respects French culture, this timepiece will be an attractive choice for those who are involved in French culture, such as cuisine and fashion, and will also resonate with those who share the idea of ​​respect for affinity that is connected to the Concorde motif.

　The modest and elegantly crafted Concorde has a rich background. Those who will likely pay attention to this work are those who appreciate the multifaceted appeal of things. Such people will likely respect differences in individual values ​​and be tolerant of diversity. This is why I feel a distinctly French quality in this work.