Special Interview! The dramatic revival of "Credor Locomotive." The bond between Gerald Genta and Seiko

2024.06.06

For Japanese watch enthusiasts, this name has a particularly special ring to it. "Credor Locomotive." Designed by the famous Gérald Genta, this model was a testament to the prestige of Seiko, the world's leading watch manufacturer at the time. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the release of the first Credor. To celebrate this memorable year, the Credor Locomotive has been revived. And what's more, it has been done with the cooperation of Gérald Genta's wife, Evelyn Genta.

Credor 50th Anniversary Locomotive Limited Edition Model

Credor 50th Anniversary Locomotive Limited Edition Model
A limited edition model commemorating Credor's 50th anniversary. It faithfully reproduces the design depicted in the original sketch, and the case and bracelet are made of lightweight, durable bright titanium. Its light and comfortable fit reflects Genta's philosophy of creating a piece that feels like jewelry on the wrist. Automatic movement (Cal. CR01). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Diameter 38.8 mm, thickness 8.9 mm. Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 300 pieces worldwide (200 in Japan). Price: 176 million yen (tax included).
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]


Gerald Genta and Seiko
Witness to the "Fellowship of Epic and Stone"

Seiko Credor Locomotive KEH018

Seiko Credor Locomotive KEH018
This bracelet watch was designed by Gérald Genta. Released in 1979, it was named "LOCOMOTIVE" (steam locomotive) from Genta's desire for it to drive the Credor collection. The design sketch description reads, "At the request of Seiko's owner, Genta visited Japan many times and spoke with Seiko's design team." Quartz movement. Stainless steel. Water resistant to 10 bar.

 It is not widely known that Seiko and Gérald Genta had a strong bond. This is attested to by Evelyn Genta, Genta's wife and Monaco ambassador to the UK. She joined Gérald Genta's business in 1980 and has supported him both publicly and privately ever since.

"In 1972, Reijiro Hattori (of Seiko) sent an invitation, asking him to provide style training to his design team. Gerald was impressed by Hattori, and Hattori was also captivated by his talent. Gerald said that Japan had excellent quality products and that they should be used in watches. He said that the best of Japan should be exported." In fact, the rise of the "Gerald Genta" brand also had something to do with Japan and the Hattori family.

Gerald Genta

Gerald Genta
A designer known as the "Picasso of the watch world," born in Switzerland in 1931, he began his career as a jewelry designer after graduating from jewelry school. In 61, he switched to watch design. In 69, he founded a design firm bearing his name. Later, with the help of Seiko and others, he reorganized it into a watch manufacturer. Until his death in 2011, he designed many historic models and made significant contributions to the development of complicated watches.

"Gerard created six special watches. I believe they were perpetual calendar watches, without any logos. They were exhibited at Wako in Ginza (a Seiko affiliate). At the time, Wako advertised the watches as being made by a designer who had worked on famous watches." However, a Swiss manufacturer pointed out that they should not use their company's name.

"Hattori suggested that if that was the case, he should make watches under his own name. So he put the Genta name on six watches, which were later sold. Several companies, including Seiko, helped him with the establishment of the company." The connection between Gerald Genta and Seiko began in 1972. "Hattori Reijiro invited Genta to Hakone to meet with five designers, and we discussed various aspects of watch design. I think that was in 1978." Genta apparently spoke frankly, which apparently pleased Hattori very much.

Credor 50th Anniversary Locomotive Limited Edition Model

Details that were not possible in the 1979 model have been faithfully reproduced in the new model, such as the position of the crown, which was misaligned on the original but has now been moved to the 4 o'clock position to replicate Genta's sketch.

"Around the same time, Mr. Hattori asked Gerard to design a special watch. He wanted to add an iconic watch to his collection. The design was an unusual hexagon, the crown was in an unusual position, and the bracelet was gorgeous. What impressed Gerard about Japanese watches was the finish of the stainless steel bracelet. He said that it was impossible to achieve such perfect polish in Switzerland. In fact, the first six prototype watches that Gerard made were sent back because the quality of the bracelets was not good enough." After this exchange, the Credor Locomotive was completed.

Evelyn Genta

Gérald Genta's partner in both public and private life was Evelyn Genta. She is currently Monaco's ambassador to the UK and Monaco's non-resident ambassador to Kazakhstan. A major reason for Genta's success in business was her expertise in finance and marketing. "He really loved Japan. He made a watch called Samurai and asked me to learn origami, but I turned him down."

"There's an anecdote I'd like to tell you about the Locomotive. Gerald worked on a variety of models. However, the only model that he named outside of the company was the Locomotive. In other words, Gerald worked on everything from A to Z of the Locomotive. The Locomotive is literally the 'Genta Baby.'"

Evelyn Genta

Evelyn compares the old and new models. "Gerald has worked on many different designs, and they have attracted a lot of attention. But the Locomotive is a 'Genta Baby.' I hope the Locomotive will continue into the future."

 Why did Genta accept Seiko's request at a time when the Swiss watch industry was being threatened by Japanese manufacturers? "There was a friendship between Gerard and Seiko. And Gerard was a completely independent artist," she said, emphasizing Genta's talent and forward-thinking spirit.

"He was ahead of his time, by 30 years. The Locomotive was released in 1979, but if it sat in a showcase it would look like a modern watch. It was an honour that this model was chosen to celebrate Credor's 50th anniversary, and I'm sure it will remain so for 50 years to come."

Evelyn Genta comparing the 1979 Lokomotive with Genta's design drawings.

Evelyn Genta compares the 1979 Locomotive with Genta's design drawing. "When Gerald designed a watch, and this is the most important thing, he started by drawing a circle with a compass on black paper, and then drawing two lines. He didn't use a pencil, he just painted it straight away. So you couldn't redraw it. That was something that Gerald took for granted."



Contact info: Seiko Watch Customer Service Center (Credor) Tel. 0120-302-617


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