Chopard Watchmaking: A glimpse into the craftsmen's lives

Chopard, which encompasses all specialized techniques in watches and jewelry, is one of the Swiss Maisons that stands out in terms of the number and skill of its artisans. From casting precious metals to producing its own movements and jewelry, specialist artisans are active in all processes, and their artistic handiwork transforms each and every product into a special piece. Chopard pursues nothing less than the artistry and rare value born from true craftsmanship.

Exceptional craftsmen are watch and jewelry artists

　Chopard is one of the manufacturers designated by the special term "manufacture." A manufacture simply means a manufacturing company, but in the Swiss watch industry, it is customary to use this term to distinguish between companies with an integrated production system, or more precisely, companies that produce their own movements. Furthermore, in addition to being a manufacture, Chopard is not part of a group of companies, but maintains its independence as a family business, adhering to a vertically integrated system from development and manufacturing to global sales. Another distinctive feature is its continued creation of original watches and jewelry, making it a rare presence among the many luxury brands of haute horlogerie.

　Chopard has two main manufacturing facilities: its headquarters in Meylan, Geneva, and its movement factory in Fleurier in the Jura Mountains. I've visited the factory many times since the 1990s, and what's most impressive is the skilled craftsmen who carry out in-house production. Among the many workshops at the headquarters, one that stands out is the precious metals foundry, which has been in operation since 1978. Dedicated foundries mix pure gold with alloys to produce 18K gold alloys in a variety of colors, including yellow, rose, and white. Among the many luxury watch brands, Chopard is the only one where you can see this kind of scene. Of course, Chopard casts its own 18K gold in-house because the starting point for watch exteriors and jewelry is precious metals. Furthermore, since July 2018, the company has declared that it will use its own ethical gold, made from 100% ethically sourced gold, for all of its watches and jewelry, demonstrating its vision of sustainable luxury.

　Another unique material aiming for sustainable luxury is LucentSteel™, which was introduced with the debut of the Alpine Eagle in 19 and is also used in this year's new LUC Qualité Fleurier and LUC XPS Forest Green. This new alloy, which uses more than 80% recycled materials than 70%, is 1.5 times harder than regular stainless steel and has excellent properties such as a strong white color and anti-allergenic properties. Chopard will continue to use LucentSteel™ exclusively in its steel models.

　The Geneva headquarters has separate ateliers for watches and jewelry. The jewelry department employs numerous artisans with highly specialized skills, including designers who create the initial sketches in watercolor, as well as artisans with advanced techniques in three-dimensional modeling, engraving, enameling, and gem setting. The system in which all products, from charming fine jewelry to the highest quality high jewelry, can be completed in-house is nothing short of impressive. The Scheufele family, who took over Chopard in 1963, are a family that has been manufacturing jewelry and jewelry watches in Pforzheim, the center of Germany's jewelry industry, since the early 20th century. There is no doubt that this historical background is strongly reflected in Chopard's style to this day.

　While preserving its traditional jewelry expertise, Chopard rediscovered its roots as a Swiss watchmaker founded in 1860. In the early 1990s, the company began developing its own in-house movements in Fleurier, located in the Jura Mountains. In honor of its founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the company named its in-house mechanical movements "LUC," a name derived from the company's trademark at the time. Beginning in 96, the company began releasing a series of movements. The modernized Fleurier Manufacture utilizes cutting-edge CNC machines to manufacture movement components, while expert craftsmen perform chamfering, polishing, and various decorative finishes, such as Côtes de Genève and circular graining, as well as assembly. Furthermore, the company boasts a dedicated workshop for unique in-house chronographs, tourbillons, minute repeaters, and other complicated timepieces. At least almost all of the company's mechanical movement expertise is concentrated here. This vertically integrated, self-contained style is identical to Chopard's jewelry.

LUC Qualite Fleurier
This latest model has received chronometer certification from COSC. It's an exceptionally rare model, earning the strict Fleurier certification, which requires a three-week chronofiability test after casing. It uses Chopard's proprietary alloy, Lucent Steel™. Automatic winding (Cal. LUC 96.09-L). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 8.92mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 3,003,000 yen (tax included).

LUC XPS Forest Green
The latest addition to the LUC XPS line combines an elegant, ultra-thin case with a highly precise COSC-certified chronometer movement. Lucent Steel™ and a beautiful green sector dial reminiscent of Swiss nature renew the appeal of the LUC XPS. Automatic movement (Cal. LUC 96.12-L). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 7.20mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: ¥1,749,000 (tax included).

　There is also a special craftsmanship that can only be found at Fleurier: Fleurisanne engraving, a technique popular in the 19th century. Specialists who have mastered this ancient, now forgotten skill decorate the movements of unique and rare limited editions. There are also artisans who create artistic dials using Grand Feu enamel.

　Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier not only produces its own mechanical movements, but also plays an important role in connecting the history of watches from the distant past to the present and into the future, as evidenced by its engraving and enamel craftsmanship, which draws inspiration from the LUCEUM museum.

　Chopard, which continues to create outstanding pieces by encompassing all of its specialized techniques in both the fields of jewelry and watches, describes its activities with the phrase "Mains d'Art" (artisans who create art with their hands). These succinct words symbolize how each piece of jewelry and watch is made with so many specialized techniques, and how it is elevated to a work of art by the hands of so many artisans, making Chopard truly one-of-a-kind.

Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT
Combining the "XP" designation, which stands for ultra-thin, with the "TT" designation, which evokes technical and titanium elements, this latest model is the first Alpine Eagle to feature a skeleton structure. The dial-less design and openwork LUC movement express outstanding technology and refined aesthetics. Automatic winding (Cal. LUC 96.17-S). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Ti case (41mm diameter, 8.03mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Priced at 3,927,000 yen (tax included).

Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
The original design exterior is crafted from 18K ethical rose gold cast in-house. The in-house developed movement with a flyback chronograph function is a modern masterpiece that stands out for its innovativeness. This latest model is truly the culmination of the results of the company's integrated in-house production. Automatic winding (Cal. Chopard 03.05-C). 45 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 18KRG case (44mm diameter, 13.15mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 10,857,000 yen (tax included).