The key to unlocking the appeal of Grand Seiko's latest model, equipped with the manual-winding Caliber 9SA4, is "dialogue with the watch."

2024.06.06

The high-beat movement has now become a standard feature of Grand Seiko mechanical watches. The Caliber 9SA series featured in the Evolution 9 collection can be considered the culmination of this movement. In 2024, Grand Seiko added the manual-winding Caliber 9SA4 to the lineup. These two manual-winding models, equipped with the first high-beat manual-winding movement in approximately 50 years, are in fact mechanical wristwatches filled with appeal that transcends conventional boundaries. The key word here is "dialogue with the watch."

Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours"
SLGW002/SLGW003

This 2024 model incorporates a completely new philosophy: dialogue with the watch. It features the Caliber 9SA4, a version of the masterpiece Caliber 9SA5 optimized for manual winding. The feel of its hard crown is unmatched. Manual winding (Caliber 9SA4). 47 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours.
(Right) SLGW002. 18KPG case. Limited to 80 units worldwide (50 in Japan). 605 yen (tax included). *Please note that due to limited quantities, it may be sold out.
(Left) SLGW003. Brilliant hard titanium case. 1,452,000 yen (tax included). Both models are 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm thick. Water resistant to 3 ATM. Available exclusively at Grand Seiko boutiques and Grand Seiko salons. Scheduled for release on Friday, August 9, 2024.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]


Enjoy the pleasure of a hand-wound movement with an optimized 10 vibrations per second

 The Cal. 9SA5, released in 2020, is a movement that embodies a new beginning for Grand Seiko. The combination of a highly efficient dual impulse escapement, a Grand Seiko free-sprung mechanism, and a winding balance spring that ensures high isochronism gives the Evolution 9 collection a practical power reserve of approximately 80 hours, a high vibration frequency of 36,000 vph, and outstanding precision.

Cal.9SA4

The Caliber 9SA4 is the first manual-winding high-beat movement in Grand Seiko history in nearly half a century. Based on the masterpiece Caliber 9SA5, approximately 40% of the components have been newly designed, including a revised manual-winding gear train and the addition of a power reserve display. Like the Caliber 9SA5, it features a dual impulse escapement, twin barrels, Grand Seiko free sprung movement, and a uniquely designed winding balance spring. It is manual-winding (diameter 31.0mm, thickness 4.15mm).

 The hand-wound Caliber 9SA4, added in 1924, was born from this masterpiece, the Caliber 9SA5. Many watch manufacturers choose to remove the automatic winding mechanism from their automatic watches and simply wind them manually. This should be sufficient to create a "new dress watch that is uniquely Grand Seiko." However, Grand Seiko changed the design of approximately 40% of the movement components to create the new hand-wound Caliber 9SA4. This was done to optimize it for hand-winding and to provide an excellent winding feel. Grand Seiko wanted to add unique value to the Caliber 9SA while retaining the exceptional fundamental strength of the Caliber 9SA series.

Cal.9SA4

The Cal. 9SA4 has been completely redesigned for manual winding, and the dial side has also been designed differently. The date display has been completely eliminated, the crown has been pulled out one notch, and the rear wheel train for the day movement has been completely covered to enhance aesthetics. Also noteworthy is the flat finish of the dial side base plate, with few steps or holes, typical of a dedicated manual winding movement. This is the result of the pursuit of the ideal manual winding movement.

 The result was the "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 3600080 Hours," equipped with the Caliber 9SA4. It was unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, the perfect venue to showcase the true merits of this new dress watch to the world. To be sure, the high quality and unparalleled character of Grand Seiko's unique winding feel were met with an enthusiastic response, to say the least, from journalists and buyers around the world.


The secret to achieving the best "winding feel" of a mass-produced machine

In creating the first hand-wound Hi-Beat movement in nearly half a century, Grand Seiko's technical team added a requirement that is extremely rare among current models: "dialogue with the watch." Various innovations to improve the winding feel of the crown have given this model an unprecedented individuality.

(Left) The sliding locking mechanism that meshes with the ratchet wheel gives the crown that clicking sensation. By sliding along the ratchet wheel, it also serves to release any excess force that may be applied to the mainspring. The shape of the locking mechanism was inspired by the wagtails that can be seen on the grounds of Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. It moves as if pecking at food.
(Right) The Cal. 9SA4 inherits the mechanism of the automatic Cal. 9SA5. This is an unprecedented escapement and regulator. It features a dual impulse escapement that is more efficient than a Swiss lever escapement, a Grand Seiko free sprung that provides high isochronism, and a uniquely designed winding balance spring. This unusual configuration for a mass-produced watch is the reason for its outstanding precision.

 Product Planning Manager Kohei Egashira says that the idea of ​​adding a hand-wound movement to the Cal. 9SA series was on the cards from the start of development.

 However, the development team says that they had no intention of creating a movement that simply removed the automatic winding mechanism.

Kohei Egashira

Kohei Egashira of Seiko Watch's Product Planning Division oversees the planning of the Evolution 9 Collection, which includes the Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours. "I thought that a thin hand-wound mechanical movement was the only way to create a completely new model. I tried out a variety of movements to get the feel I wanted, but none of them were quite what I had in mind," he said.

"Today's Grand Seiko has reached a much higher level than before. That's why we wanted to make the manual winding watch something different."

 As the requirements for a hand-wound movement were finalized, the key was emotional value, in other words, enriching the time spent "dialogue with the watch."

A distinctive feature of the Cal.9SA series is its horizontal gear train structure, which distributes the movement parts. While this allows for a thinner movement, it also reduces the space available for adding additional mechanisms. The sliding locking mechanism, shaped like a wagtail, is cleverly incorporated between the two barrels.

 After much discussion about what would create a Grand Seiko-like feel, they decided on a ticking winding feel, which is rare for current models. However, it is difficult to give a ticking winding feel to a wristwatch movement, which has space constraints. This is because there is no space to accommodate the large Kohaze. Yuya Tanaka, who designed the movement, said:

"To clarify the feel, the 9SA4's click spring is about 10 times stronger than that of the hand-wound 9S64. However, it is difficult to design a click spring if it is the rotating type common in ordinary movements. We chose an entirely new sliding click spring to improve the feel, show the movement, and increase durability."

The power reserve indicator wheel train is made up of small gears. Effective use of the extra space allows for a thinner movement, but in theory this increases resistance. Grand Seiko's engineers designed a new tooth profile and used rubies above and below the gears to reduce torque loss.

 The development team prototyped four different types of locking mechanism to improve feel and durability. In addition, to make manual winding easier, the rotation speed of the ratchet wheel when winding the crown was increased by approximately 15% compared to the 9SA5.

 However, no matter how much the locking mechanism is improved, it is difficult to expect a good winding feel from the current hand-wound movement. This is because the waterproof gasket built into the crown dulls the feel. "In order to improve the winding feel, the locking mechanism around the 9SA4 was designed with the waterproof gasket in mind," says Tanaka.

The drive train is the same as the Cal. 9SA5. Despite its high beat and long power reserve, the gear train is kept compact by adding a second pinion to the regular gear train. Note the grain on the top surface and the chamfering around the openings, enhancing the aesthetic appeal of the gears. The entire base plate is also perlage-finished. "We applied a finishing touch to every detail, whether it is visible or not," says Yuya Tanaka, who was primarily responsible for designing the movement.

 By the way, the winding feel also changes depending on the size of the crown.

"We also adjusted the size of the crown and optimized the torque required for winding. We had about 50 people try winding it, and then we determined the appropriate size based on the torque they gave us."

 The winding stop and power reserve indicator are meticulous considerations typical of Grand Seiko. Previous manual-wound Grand Seiko watches did not have a winding stop when manually wound, to prevent damage to the barrel if it was overwound. In contrast, the 9SA4 has a winding stop, but also adds a power reserve indicator to prevent overwinding. However, Tanaka says that this was also a difficult task.

(Left) The movement bridge is decorated with a delicate striped pattern that represents the flow of the Shizukuishi River, which flows near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Also noteworthy are the three-dimensional hole jewels, which are unusual for a mass-produced watch.
(Right) The winding wheel (back) and the timing wheel (front) are responsible for winding the mainspring and setting the time. The mechanism has been redesigned so that the feel remains the same whether the watch is turned forward or backward, and it has also been tuned so that you can still feel the movement in your hand even when turning it backward without pulling up the crown.

"The 9SA series has a twin barrel, which means the entrance and exit for the power reserve display are in completely different locations. In addition, there is not enough space, so we could not use a large gear to increase the reduction ratio. So we designed a new tooth profile and put a lot of thought into the layout. However, the space available for the screws that hold the power reserve gear train was quite limited, so we adjusted the position of the screws to within 1/100 of a millimeter," says Tanaka.

 The Cal. 9SA4 is not only a thin, hand-wound movement, but also incorporates the clear philosophy of "dialogue with the watch." Grand Seiko has also given the Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours an exterior befitting this special movement.

(Left) The approximately 80-hour power reserve indicator lets you know if the watch is overwound. The first 8 hours are displayed as a line, and the remaining 3 days are displayed as three blocks. By lowering the position of the hands, the overall thickness of the watch is also reduced.
(Right) The ratchet wheel and the hole wheel that control the reel's winding feel. The finish of the hole wheel that meshes with the ratchet wheel and the round hole transmission wheel that connects the reel's head and hole wheel were inspired by the classic 45GS.


A new frontier for versatile dress watches

The high-performance Cal. 9SA4 movement has a diameter of 31.0mm, which is by no means small. However, the cases of the SLGW002 and 003 are 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm thick, which is comparable to a typical thin dress watch. This was made possible by exploring what a dress watch truly represents Grand Seiko.

The design skillfully incorporates the slim lines and high legibility of a dress watch, as well as the design elements of the Evolution 9. The strongly striated finish on the bezel was newly adopted for this model, a technique that gives the thin bezel a strong presence. The dial features a new horizontal pattern with a birch bark motif.

"We aimed for the thinnest shape possible for a Grand Seiko dress watch," said Kohei Egashira, so the case back was changed from a screw-down type to a screw-down type. As a result, the lugs that are integrated into the case side were shortened, further improving the wearing comfort. The low center of gravity and wide strap, which are characteristics of the Evolution 9, were retained.

 Kohei Egashira said, "In developing this watch, we reassessed what a Grand Seiko dress watch is. In terms of size, we decided to cut the diameter below 40mm and set the ideal thickness at around 9mm." To achieve this size, the inner ring that supports the movement was omitted, and the SLG003 case was made of a special titanium alloy called Brilliant Hard Titanium. Lighter, whiter, with a finer grain and a harder surface, it is extremely compatible with Zaratsu polishing. While this did increase manufacturing costs, the decision was made to use it in order to create the ideal dress watch.

Kohei Egashira

Designer Kiyotaka Sakai is responsible for the design of the Evolution 9 collection, including the hand-wound mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours. "The act of winding a hand-wound watch is itself rich and enjoyable. We reconsidered the design while cherishing this emotional value," he says. This review even extended to the thickness and size of the crown.

 Additionally, to emphasize the dress watch feel, the indices and hour hand width were narrowed and the dial ring was purposely omitted. To make the case thinner, the case back is screwed down rather than screwed in. Kiyotaka Sakai, who was in charge of the design, said: "But this is Grand Seiko, so we left the minute markers on all the dials."

 The dial design is what identifies it as the Evolution 9. The motif is the same birch as before, but to emphasize the three-dimensional effect, a large birch bark pattern has been incorporated.

Case Structure

The case structure shows how thin the watch is. Note the extremely narrow clearance between the crystal, hands, and indexes. The gap between the hands and the crystal is tighter than that of the SLGH005. Furthermore, by removing the dial ring, it was possible to make the bezel as thin as possible, which also made the overall thickness thinner. "However, shock resistance standards and the like have not been compromised," says Sakai.

 The Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours stands out with its specifications of 36,000 vph and approximately 80 hours of power reserve. However, what is even more noteworthy about this watch is its distinctive packaging and statement as a wristwatch. Looking around the market today, it is hard to imagine a hand-wound watch that embodies such a clear, universally relatable message. This is what it means to be unique.

SLGW003

This is the SLGW003, which uses brilliant hard titanium for its exterior. This material boasts an unusual whiteness for titanium and is roughly twice as hard as stainless steel. It resists unevenness even with a heavily grained finish and is also suitable for Zaratsu polishing. Despite its texture surpassing that of stainless steel, the watch itself is surprisingly light. The total length of the watch, including the lugs, is only about 45mm, making it extremely easy to handle.


Contact info: Seiko Watch Customer Service Center (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617


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