The ultimate form of the "classic Sub"? A review of the Rolex Submariner Date 126610LV!

I have no connection with Rolex, especially sports models. At one time, I was fond of the 114270 Explorer I, but I got rid of it, thinking I'd always be able to get one. Unfortunately, it's no longer available. I was hoping to somehow test out the latest sports watch, and I was able to borrow the current Submariner, the 126610LV. It's big and heavy, but Rolex is a force to be reckoned with. And perhaps this model will be the last Sub that retains the classic feel.

The history of Rolex's cat-and-mouse game

　Previous Rolex automatic watches have been equipped with heavy rotors to improve winding efficiency. This has resulted in a large bulge in the center of the case back, reducing the contact area with the wrist. In other words, the structure makes it difficult to achieve a comfortable fit.

　That's why I've always preferred the older Rolex Oyster models, those in the four- or five-digit range. While the cases and bracelets are flimsy compared to current models, the head (watch part) and tail (bracelet part) are light, so they're relatively comfortable to wear. My personal preference among these is the models with plastic crystals. I still think the Datejust 1601 and 16013 (for geeks) are the best Rolexes for casual wear. The 16233 with its sapphire crystal crystal is an even better watch, but I find the head a little heavy.

　Since adopting sapphire crystal crystals, Rolex's watch heads have become heavier, and the bracelets have been made stronger to accommodate this weight. Just when it seemed like things had settled down, the case grew larger, and the bracelets were made even stiffer to accommodate. This has been a never-ending cycle of cat-and-mouse action. Rolex's approach to maintaining a balance between the head and tail is admirable, but as a result, the watches themselves have become extremely heavy. This is especially evident in the so-called "Sporole" watches, which, while of unparalleled craftsmanship, have lost the lightness of watches like the Submariner 5513 and Explorer 1016. Whether you choose perfection or ease of handling is a matter of personal preference.

What makes a Rolex so heavy?

　The biggest reason why Rolex has been playing a cat-and-mouse game with the "head and tail balance" is its unique case. When we think of the Oyster case, we usually imagine a screw-down crown and case back. However, there is more to what makes an Oyster an Oyster.

　In a typical watch, the movement is enclosed in a cage (movement holder) and fastened to the case. In contrast, most Rolex Oyster watches, at least since the 1950s, have a structure in which the movement is directly fixed to the case. Without a cage, the case would be stronger and less susceptible to distortion under high water pressure, but punching out a thick case required press know-how. This is why other watchmakers have been unable to imitate the Oyster itself. However, with the spread of cutting techniques rather than pressing, other manufacturers have followed Rolex's lead and begun to attach movements directly to the case. Bulgari's "Octo Finissimo" and Grand Seiko's so-called "Hi-Beat Hand-Wound" are good examples. Even in case structure alone, Rolex was ahead of its competitors.

　However, there are also weaknesses to the design of directly mounting the movement to the case. The reason many manufacturers are now able to choose this structure is because the diameter of the movement is large. On the other hand, if the movement is small compared to the case, the head of the watch becomes heavy. This is why the larger-sized Rolex Oyster watches of recent years feel heavier than their size would suggest.

The new sub is the culmination of a classic approach

　Rolex's Submariner has long maintained a case size of 40mm in diameter. In contrast, the 126610LV, released in 2020, is 1mm larger at 41mm. However, Rolex has slightly narrowed the lugs to make the size less noticeable. Whether it's weight or appearance, it's typical of Rolex to strike a delicate balance.

　The movement is the latest Caliber 3235. It is a further modified version of the Caliber 3100 series, which is a modified version of the Caliber 3000 series, and is a culmination of the movement's capabilities. However, the movement size of approximately 28mm in diameter remains the same as before, meaning that the movement is even smaller compared to the case. Of course, Rolex must have been concerned about the weight of the head.

　In theory, a thicker bracelet can help distribute the weight of the watch. So, the new Submariner has increased the width of the bracelet by 1mm, increasing the contact area with the wrist. At the same time, the bracelet links have also been made slightly larger. While smaller links are the standard for improving comfort, Rolex likely considered the overall weight balance. In fact, even though the links are larger, the watch still feels comfortable thanks to the fine-tuning buckle.

　With its large head and buckle, this model is by no means a light watch. However, Rolex chose to go with the traditional packaging of a heavy head and tail precisely because it is a sports watch, which requires robustness. From my perspective, the bracelet width of 21mm at the lugs and 16mm at the buckle (measured) is too tapered for a sports watch (the same can be said for some Omegas). However, considering the heavy buckle with a fine adjustment mechanism, this narrowing probably makes it easier to balance the weight. Changing the bracelet to a straight one would surely improve the fit even further, but the buckle would undoubtedly be incredibly heavy.

　I believe this package represents the culmination of Rolex's constant trial and error, balancing weight and comfort within the significant constraints of the Oyster case. Incidentally, there are currently models like the Deepsea that feature a lightweight ceramic middle case between the case and movement. However, this is an attempt to increase pressure resistance, and it is unlikely that it will be adapted for the regular Oyster.

Hirota predicts the future of Rolex movements

　Please allow me to speculate. Rolex has modified the masterpiece movement, the Caliber 3000 series, and has indeed completed the Caliber 3200 series. However, considering the trend toward larger cases, the 28mm movement size is too small. Therefore, perhaps future Rolex models will have a diameter of 30mm or more and thinner movements. If such a movement were to be installed, it would be possible to significantly reduce the weight of the watch head, especially in sports models like the Submariner. This means that the watch would likely be more comfortable to wear while maintaining its balance.

　The Caliber 3255 used in this Submariner will likely be the last movement to retain a classic Rolex design. It was based on the renowned 31 series, but after extensive modifications, it has become a completely different beast. The key changes are numerous. The power reserve has been extended to approximately 70 hours, including the adoption of a lightweight Chronergy escapement. The reverser-type automatic winding has been lightened to reduce inertia, and the rotor has been changed to a bearing-supported rotor (Rolex is finally using bearings!), further improving winding efficiency. While performance is undoubtedly first-rate even in current models, further expansion and evolution may be difficult given the age of the basic design.

Conclusion: The ultimate Rolex, with a classic case structure and movement

　Rolex created the Submariner, an extraordinary waterproof watch, using the Oyster case. With a larger case size and a delicately balanced weight, this model may be the last Submariner to follow traditional methods. The same goes for the classic 32 series movement it houses. Honestly, this model is by no means light. But like any watch with a well-balanced weight, I got used to it after wearing it for three days. I don't mean to rile up the sentiment. But this model, which manages to retain the essence of classic Rolex, is definitely one watch any watch lover should own. That is, if you can tolerate the weight.