The standards for what makes a "good watch" vary from person to person. However, some easy-to-understand points include the finish and construction. In this article, we will introduce current models with movement finishes that are considered to be good watches, and provide detailed explanations.
While an increasing number of manufacturers are using machine tools to perform Geneva finishing automatically or semi-automatically, Voutilainen uses the traditional method of applying the pattern using boxwood set on a lathe. Kari Voutilainen says, "I don't know the exact depth of the Geneva finishing," but its shallowness is clear from the fact that it barely affects the chamfering of the bridge. It is a classic method that can only be achieved by an independent watchmaker who can take the time to do so.
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2020 issue of Kronos Japan]
Identifying a "good watch" from its movement
What makes a watch a "good one"? Everyone has different standards. However, it's true that one of the most obvious points is the finish and construction. This is evidenced by the fact that many watch enthusiasts have begun to discuss the quality of details. So, what kind of finish and construction is considered good? This time, we'll be looking at the movement finish of some of the most representative current models.
Bridge Finishing
When assessing the quality of a movement, what really matters are the small parts such as the jewels, screws, and gears. The cost of these parts is immediately apparent, but because they are inconspicuous, they require close inspection. On the other hand, the finish of the largest bridge is a useful point for easily discerning quality. Let's take a look at the types of bridge finishes and their quality along with some representative models.
This model is equipped with an in-house movement. It features a direct impulse escapement, an improved version of the natural escapement. Its excellent drive efficiency provides approximately 50 hours of isochronism to the 13.6mm diameter balance wheel with a moment of inertia of 40mg/cm2 (actual run time is approximately 65 hours). The movement's finish remains as good as ever, and it's one of the best of its kind among current models. Hand-wound (Cal. 28). 21 jewels. 18,000 vph. 18KWG case (39mm diameter).
Côte de Geneve
When looking at a movement through a transparent case back, the first thing that catches your eye is the large bridge. In fact, when many watchmakers try to improve the aesthetics of their movements, they first try to improve the finish of the bridges, and then work on the smaller parts such as gears, screws, and jewels.
Currently, there are four main types of bridge finishes: the "wave pattern" familiar to watch enthusiasts, known as the Geneva finish (Côtes de Genève), the grained finish with lines on the surface, the roughened matte finish (including granulated gold), and the circular graining finish often used on the base plate.
This is the first movement that Michel Parmigiani created for his company. It was first released in 1999. The chamfering of the bridges is of course excellent, as is the shallow Geneva polishing. The grade of the chamfering varies depending on the model and price, but the shallow Geneva polishing is basically common to all Parmigiani Fleurier watches. The way to tell if the polishing is shallow is that the Geneva polishing steps on the chamfer around the outer edge of the bridge are not easily visible.
This classic Parmigiani Fleurier model was remodeled in 2018. Its smaller size and long lug case shape make it extremely comfortable to wear. The movement's finishing remains among the finest among mass-produced models. The price is also reasonable considering its features. Manual winding (Cal. PF110). 28 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 8 days. 18KRG case (42.3mm x 32.1mm).
It is unclear when the wave-patterned Geneva finish on the top of the movement first began, or what its purpose was. Some say it was used to hide scratches during processing. I believe it may have originally been a special decoration applied to movements for the American market. In fact, American-made pocket watches from the late 19th century onwards typically featured flashy damask finishes on the bridges. Perhaps influenced by this, IWC, for example, from the late 19th century onwards, completely separated the finishes of some of its high-end watches for the American market from those for other markets. The American market had nickel silver bridges and Geneva finishes, while the rest were made of brass and had a granulated finish as standard.
The Cal. 4300 series, designed as a core movement, has a more industrial design than the previous Cal. 3120 series. The chamfering is diamond-cut, just like the Cal. 3120, but, as is typical of high-end watches, the Geneva finish is shallower. While the overall finish appears stronger in official promotional photos, it is actually shallower, as shown in this photo. Additionally, the circular graining under the balance wheel is finer than in the Cal. 3120.
A three-hand model with an ambitious design. The dial is reminiscent of the 1940s, but the octagonal sides are reminiscent of Audemars Piguet. It features a new automatic movement with a long power reserve and a free-sprung balance. The exterior finish is of very high quality. Automatic (Cal. 4302). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KPG case (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 3 bar.
According to sources, the classic Geneva finishing technique involved the use of a straightedge. The details are unknown. This was followed by the lathe technique, in which a boxwood pad with an abrasive was fixed to a rotating chuck and slid over the plate at a slight angle, creating a regular wave pattern. This technique is still used by some independent watchmakers today. Because it is done by hand, it is prone to unevenness, but it allows for a shallow finish.
Incidentally, there are pocket watches made in the 19th and early 20th centuries that are shallow but have very wide Geneva finishes. This can be considered the highest level of Geneva finish. A similar example from today would be Jean-Daniel Nicolas. Nowadays, it is easy to apply wide Geneva finishes, but it is extremely difficult to do this by hand.
A major feature of the 2-minute tourbillon is the Geneva finish applied vertically (12 o'clock to 6 o'clock). By tilting the lathe vertically instead of horizontally (3 o'clock to 9 o'clock), a unique finish is achieved. Roth says, "We have recreated the finish seen in observatory tourbillons from the 1940s." Boxwood is used for polishing. Thinly shaved pieces of boxwood are placed very shallowly on the bridges to apply the Geneva finish.
This tourbillon is crafted by Daniel Roth. The carriage rotates once every two minutes, instead of one minute. Roth himself personally hand-finishes it according to the classic techniques of the Vallée de Joux. Manual winding (Cal. JDN2000L). 23 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Pt case (42mm x 32mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
A more common technique is to use a semi-automatic machine. This involves placing a filed pad or a turning tool at an angle against the bridge and sliding it to create the wave pattern. Today, the vast majority of high-end watches are given their Geneva finish using this method. Good examples include Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and A. Lange & Söhne. Unlike manual work, this method allows for consistent pressure, which means there is less chance of unevenness. This makes it easier to create wide stripes with little distortion. However, the pattern tends to be deeper than one created by hand.
A. Lange & Söhne uses a three-quarter plate that covers the entire movement. Naturally, the highlight of the movement is the Geneva finish applied to the large surfaces, or what A. Lange & Söhne calls the Glashütte stripe finish. The A. Lange & Söhne style is to apply relatively thin, shallow lines. The technique is the same as that used by Patek Philippe and others, where a pad with a file attached is rotated on the surface to create the stripe pattern.
This model is a redesign of the two-hand model first released in 2011. The extended indices give the watch a cleaner overall impression. The case is only 5.9mm thick, making it comfortable to wear. While this is Lange's entry-level model, it boasts the same finish as its higher-end counterparts. Manual winding (Cal. L093.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (37mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m.
The Cal. 215 PS movement is considered one of the most stable movements currently available. Although the movement is only about 21.9mm in diameter, it has a large amplitude and extremely high isochronism. What catches the eye about this movement are the multiple bridges and the Geneva finish applied to them. The decoration is done by a semi-automatic machine, but you can see that it is applied as shallowly as possible. Also, applying the Geneva finish in a wide width is a Patek Philippe style.
The dial emphasizes the glossy finish typical of Patek Philippe, and is combined with raised inscriptions, a recent attempt. The crown is also neatly recessed on the case side, in consideration of women with long fingernails. Manual winding (Cal. 215 PS). 18 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 44 hours. 18KRG case (size 30 x 33.8 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
Some inexpensive watches have Geneva finishes applied automatically using an NC lathe. This produces a very sharp finish, but it is less likely to have the hand-made feel compared to watches made using semi-automatic machines. Also, because the process is designed to ensure the pattern is applied accurately, the Geneva finish tends to be deep. Furthermore, in mass-produced watches, there are also examples where the Geneva finish-like pattern is applied by pressing rather than cutting. At first glance, it appears to have been automatically finished, but this is something that is easily spotted by discerning watch enthusiasts. In any case, it can be said that a shallower Geneva finish is more luxurious, while a deeper one is more suited to mass production.
Not just Seiko, but Japanese manufacturers in general prefer to apply a deep Geneva finish. By tilting the rotating tool at an angle and hitting the bridge, a clear pattern is engraved that is different from Swiss or German watches. This finish is a matter of personal preference, but the depth of the wave pattern is uniform and there is no distortion. As befits a high-quality product, the finishing is not done on an NC lathe, but semi-automatically using a craftsman's manual labor.
This model is equipped with the hand-wound Cal. 9S63 movement. By converting the automatic Cal. 9S65 movement to a hand-wound version and adding a small seconds hand at 9 o'clock, the thickness of the watch has been reduced to just 11.6mm. Hand-wound (Cal. 9S63). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
Sharp grain finish
One thing that has been catching the eye recently is the sharp graining. Panerai uses this finish on the majority of their in-house movements, and combined with the very deep chamfering, it gives them a unique character. In the Panerai workshop, the graining is done by placing the bridges against a rotating polishing cloth. Typically, this type of graining is done by placing sandpaper or cling film attached to a jig, but this is probably difficult to do with the large surface area of Panerai bridges. At first glance, it may seem like a rough technique, but as the photo shows, the finish is quite beautiful. Incidentally, some Seiko Spring Drive watches also have a graining finish, but this is done by placing the bridges against cling film and applying it by hand, one by one.
Although it is an industrial product, Panerai is highly regarded by those involved for its excellent finish. The graining, a major feature of their in-house developed movements, is achieved by placing the bridges on a rotating polishing cloth. The process is entirely done by hand. It may seem like a very rough process, but perhaps due to the skilled craftsmen, as the photo above shows, the graining on the bridges is uniform.
Ref. PAM000931. This model features the smash-hit "California Dial" with an aged stainless steel case and a faded dial. The crystal is made of Plexiglas and the strap is made of aged Tuscan leather. Manual winding (Cal. P.3000). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 3 days. Stainless steel case (47mm diameter). Water resistant to 10 bar.
The Cal. 01, which prioritizes ease of assembly and maintenance, naturally has an industrial finish to its movement. It is unclear whether the Geneva finish is done on an NC lathe or semi-automatically. However, as is typical of Breitling, the depth is uniform. The reason why the Geneva finish is not visible on the chamfered edges around the bridge is likely because the Geneva finish was applied to the top surface of the bridge and then the outer edge was smoothed with a diamond cut. This is an extremely clever technique.
This Japan-limited edition model recreates the classic Chronomat and features a mother-of-pearl dial. The case design is nearly identical to the "Airborne," but the bezel is not inked and the shape of the indices is different. This is a very attractive product with a strategic price. Automatic winding (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (44mm diameter).
梨地仕上げ
A technique favored by some independent watchmakers and small manufacturers is a roughened, matte finish. This could also include the granulation finish used on old pocket watches. As Philippe Dufour explains, this technique has been lost, but manufacturers such as Voutilainen, Lang & Heyne, Romain Gauthier, and Capek have recreated this finish in new ways. However, because it is difficult to achieve a uniform matte finish, its adoption has been limited to a select few ambitious manufacturers.
However, in 2020, Seiko adopted this matte finish for their new Spring Drive movement, the Cal. 9RA5. While the details are unclear, it is unlikely to be the same method used by Voutilainen, which involves roughening the surface with a brush. This movement also features rounded chamfers that can only be applied by hand. However, it is surprising to learn that these are not hand-finished either. Advances in technology may be changing conventional wisdom about finishing.
The new Cal. 9RA5 has a matte finish bridge. This finish can be seen in Roman Gauthier, Voutilainen, Lang & Heyne, etc., but it is rare to see it used in mass-produced products. The details of the finish are said to be a company secret. The image is a publicity photo. The Cal. 9RA5 that will be installed in the production version scheduled for release in August will have a slightly changed matte finish. The rounded chamfers are machine-applied.
This model features a new movement, introduced in the important year marking Grand Seiko's 60th anniversary. While the price has increased, the movement's finish has also been completely renewed. Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9RA5). 38 jewels. Approximately 120 hours of power reserve. Bright titanium case (46.9mm diameter, 16mm thick). 600m water resistance. Limited to 700 pieces worldwide.
How to spot a Geneva finish
As mentioned in the text, the Geneva finish is applied by applying a rotating tool, boxwood, or pad to the bridge. The reason the wave boundaries are so clear is because the tool is tilted at an angle when it is applied to the bridge.
❶ is an example of a deep Geneva finish. By deeply tilting the tool or pad against the receiver, you can create a sharp Geneva finish like this.
In contrast, ❷ is an example of a very shallow finish. The Geneva finish, with its gentle borders, is applied by tilting the tool very slightly and using light pressure.
So how do we measure the depth of Geneva polishing? The "steps" created by the process will almost certainly be visible in the chamfers around the bridge. If the chamfers have clearly visible indentations, it can be assumed that the polishing is deep. On the other hand, shallower polishing is less likely to produce the "steps" that result from Geneva polishing. The Voutilainen "Vingt-8" is a good example.
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