How to distinguish a good watch from its movement: How to judge a high-quality watch (Perlage edition)

The standards for what makes a "good watch" vary from person to person. However, some easily understood points include the finish and construction. In this article, we will explain the "perlage" finish applied to the movement's base plate and bridges based on three points.

How to distinguish a good watch from its movement: How to judge a high-quality watch (bridge finishing)

http://www.webchronos.net/features/117506/

How to distinguish a good watch from its movement: How to appraise a high-quality watch (chamfering)

http://www.webchronos.net/features/117558/

Identifying a "good watch" from the "perilage" of the movement

　Although not as obvious as Geneva finishing or chamfering, circular graining is also an important measure of quality. It is done by applying a polishing pad or rubber grinding stone attached to a small lathe to the base plate, creating fine concentric circles. The circular graining technique is exactly the same for both inexpensive and high-end movements. However, subtle differences are evident in the finish of the circular graining.

Three points that determine the quality of perlage

　The circular patterns on the plate and bridges are called perlage. This term, now widely used in watchmaking, was named after the way the circular patterns resemble pearls. Generally, perlage is applied to the plate, but it can also be applied to the entire bridge, as in some complex Bulgari models.

　The technique of circular graining has remained essentially the same from the past to the present. It is done on a small lathe. In the past, abrasives were applied to a thinly carved ivory pad and it was lightly pressed against the pad to create a circular pattern. Today, the technique is still the same, but it is more common to use a polishing pad or rubber grinding stone. Unlike Geneva finishing or chamfering, there is no difference in grade based on the finish, but there is a clear difference between high-quality and low-quality products. There are three main points that determine the difference: processing precision, the skill of the craftsman, and manufacturing cost.

　Circular graining is a finishing technique that involves lightly applying an abrasive pad or rubber grindstone to the baseplate or bridge. In many cases, circular graining is applied directly to the baseplate or bridge after it has emerged from the cutting process. To achieve a uniform finish, the key is the smoothness of the baseplate. If the baseplate is uneven, the circular graining finish will be uneven. In recent years, Roger Dubuis has significantly improved the quality of circular graining by increasing the precision of baseplate processing. Furthermore, a smooth base reduces the amount of shavings produced when applying the abrasive pad or rubber grindstone. Reducing the amount of shavings reduces the chance of scratches during circular graining. Videos produced by various manufacturers often show the circular graining process. This is purely my personal opinion, but I would say it's best not to expect high-quality circular graining from a manufacturer that produces a lot of shavings.

　The other factor is the skill of the craftsman. Nowadays, both Geneva finishing and chamfering can be done automatically (though of course, you can't expect high quality), but circular graining still needs to be done by hand by a craftsman. In other words, the more skilled the craftsman, the higher the quality of the circular graining, but if an inexperienced craftsman is in charge, the quality will decrease. The criteria for judging quality are that the pattern is even, there are no deep scratches, and the center of each concentric circle overlaps the outer periphery of the next concentric circle. Also, just like with Geneva finishing, the shallower the pattern, the better.

　And the most important factor is cost. Circular graining, which cannot be automated, is one of the finishing methods that has a significant impact on production costs. For this reason, some manufacturers reduce the number of processes by only applying circular graining to visible parts or by using large circular graining. However, some believe that circular graining where the baseplate and bridges meet is excessive, and some manufacturers, such as A. Lange & Söhne, have deliberately eliminated circular graining around the balance wheel for aesthetic reasons rather than cost. However, watches from manufacturers that apply circular graining to appropriate sizes and even in invisible places can be assumed to have carefully finished other parts as well. A good example of such a watch is Chopard's LUC Quattro. Its finish is breathtaking.