The "Chronos Top 10 Watches Rankings," a reader-selected series, was launched in conjunction with a regular feature in the Japanese edition of Chronos. This time, we will be announcing the results of a survey conducted on the theme of "Inventive Retrograde Watches." While the theme may be somewhat niche, it drew passionate comments from watch enthusiasts who have a deep knowledge of this movement.

The much anticipated results are announced!
The Chronos Top 10 Watches Rankings is a regular feature of the Japanese edition of Chronos. Each judge selects 10 recommended models based on a theme. From these, the top 10 are determined based on the votes cast. The reader rankings are created by having webChronos readers choose their number one from the top 10 and vote for them.
This time, the theme was "An inventive retrograde watch." Retrograde is a display mechanism in which the moment the hand reaches the last number on the dial or indicator, it moves back to zero. In addition to current models, the selection criteria for this year's competition excluded models with "retrograde display only for power reserve."
The results are based on votes received between June 22 and June 26, 2024. Compared to the rankings made by our judges, models who have improved their rankings are marked with an up arrow, models who have dropped in the rankings are marked with a down arrow, and models who are tied are marked with a right arrow.
↘︎10th place
Harry Winston/HW Ocean Biretrograde Automatic

Automatic movement. 18KWG case. 11,957,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Harry Winston Client Information Tel. 0120-346-376
↘︎9th place
Bvlgari/Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

Automatic movement. Ti case. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan Tel. 0120-030-142
↗︎8th place
Franck Muller/Tonneau Curvex Irregular Retrograde Hour

Automatic movement. 18KPG case. 748 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Franck Muller Watchland Tokyo Tel. 03-3549-1949
[Readers' reasons for voting]
- In any case, the unique indexes and dial, the cuteness of the moon phase, and the complex mechanism that is playful yet still works together make the design instantly recognizable as a Franck Muller all the more appealing.
・Great shape.
↘︎8th place
Van Cleef & Arpels/Pierre Arpels Heure Dici et Heure Daiyole Watch

Automatic movement. 18KWG case. 4,105,200 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk Tel. 0120-10-1906
[Readers' reasons for voting]
-The beauty of the dial and the sophisticated atmosphere that doesn't overly assert Van Cleef & Arpels are great.
・I decided based on intuition.
・This is a watch that you'll want to wear at night, so white gold is the obvious choice. Also, the visibility that lets you read the time at a glance and the lack of unnecessary details are excellent.
↘︎6th place
A. Lange & Söhne / Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

Automatic movement. Pt case. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
↘︎6th place
Breguet / Tradition Retrograde Date 7597

Automatic movement. 18KWG case. 6,853,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
[Readers' reasons for voting]
- The date display hands and layout are eye-catching, as they are cleverly positioned to maintain the harmony while maintaining the symmetrical drive train of the Tradition.
This watch is packed with Breguet's inventions. The retrograde movement has a strong presence thanks to its see-through design.
・It's innovative above all else.
↗︎4th place
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Automatic movement. Stainless steel case. 6,292,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755
[Readers' reasons for voting]
The date hand is the same color as the dial, so it doesn't interfere with the visibility of the time and is well-balanced. I felt that the use of the white space on the dial was excellent. The moon position and age indication are also excellent.
・Because it's the coolest.
・This price is high for a stainless steel watch, but considering the beauty and balance of the dial and its ease of use, this is the only choice.
The retrograde date is a Vacheron Constantin icon, and it's finally being featured on the Overseas.
↗︎3th place
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Manual winding. Stainless steel case. 6,952,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
[Readers' reasons for voting]
The contrast between the elegance of the front and the mechanical look of the back is striking. The retrograde movement helps to emphasize the mechanical look.
・Appearance is the only choice.
- The perfectly harmonious design and 30-minute counter allow you to enjoy the retrograde mechanism even more.
→3rd place
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day/Date

Automatic winding. Pt case. 8,888,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755
[Readers' reasons for voting]
- The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date, a modern version of the Sablier from the Commemoration series released 25 years ago, was named after the way its retrograde date hand repeatedly moves forward and backward, resembling an hourglass. I believe that this is a masterpiece of a retrograde model.
The retrograde date on the VC is the most beautiful. The Patrimony looks better than the Overseas, so I vote for it.
If I were to actually buy one, I'd probably go for the Breguet 7597 or the Overseas Moon Phase, but if I had to choose based on a theme, I'd go for the Patrimony. Wouldn't it be great to have something to look forward to every Sunday night, when you're feeling the most gloomy of the night? I also like how the Maltese cross has been improved to have a more three-dimensional feel than before.
- It is unique in that it uses a retrograde mechanism for both the day and date. Despite the presence of two retrogrades, the design is well-balanced and offers excellent legibility. The width of the retrograde is just right, neither too narrow nor too wide. It is easy to operate, combining lightness and precision.
→1rd place
Chanel/Monsieur de Chanel

Manual winding. 18K beige gold case. 7,876,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Chanel (Customer Care) Tel. 0120-525-519
[Readers' reasons for voting]
-I like that there is less overlapping of the hands, which is common in retrograde watches, and that it has jumping hours.
・When I put it on my wrist, I felt it was a simply beautiful watch.
No matter how great a mechanism is, if it seems too obvious, it can be a letdown. This retrograde movement has a subtle presence, in a good way, and does not stand out from the dial, maintaining a perfect visual harmony.
・The dial, which can often be cluttered, has been neatly organized while still ensuring legibility. I think this is an advantage over other watches.
・I thought that watches from a brand like CHANEL, which is at the forefront of fashion, would have a strong impression of playfulness, but I was surprised to learn that the watch was equipped with a movement by Romain Gauthier. There was something about the playfulness that heightened the seriousness, and it really showed me the extraordinary attention to detail that CHANEL has.
Thank you for all your votes!

http://www.webchronos.net/ranking/115548/
http://www.webchronos.net/features/113598/
http://www.webchronos.net/features/114403/
