Breguet's "Type 20" and "Type XX" were born with a new movement specialized for flyback. This masterpiece pilot's chronograph now has a long-awaited bracelet model.
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
"Type 20" modeled after the military model and "Type XX" modeled after the civilian model
The "Type XX" follows the design of the consumer model, which features a 12-hour counter. A large 15-minute counter is located at the 3 o'clock position, improving the readability of the elapsed time. Automatic winding (Cal. 728). 39 jewels. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.1mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 3,366,000 yen (tax included).
Breguet began manufacturing aviation instruments in the 1930s. Since then, the company has deepened its involvement in the aviation industry, and in the 50s, it delivered 1100 Type 20 chronograph watches to the French Air Force.
The military's specifications stipulated legibility, resistance to negative pressure, and the inclusion of a rotating bezel, but the most important feature was the flyback function, which allowed the chronograph to be instantly reset to zero and restarted while running. Having succeeded in mass-producing the complex flyback chronograph, the company developed a derivative of this watch as the "Type XX" civilian model, and continued to add updates to it thereafter.
The Type 20 has its roots in a model delivered to the French Air Force. The rotating bezel without scales and the two-counter layout enhance its rugged impression. Automatic (Cal. 7281). 34 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.1mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 3,366,000 yen (tax included).
The Type 20 and Type XX, announced in June 2023, are descendants of these models. As their names suggest, the former is modeled after the military model, while the latter is modeled after the civilian model. However, it's not just the appearance that evokes their origins. The new movement, which took about four years to develop, has a design focused on the flyback mechanism. The key to this is the branched reset hammer, which ensures that each counter is reset reliably. This has greatly contributed to improving the reliability of the flyback mechanism.
Now, a long-awaited bracelet model has been added to this collection. The sporty three-link design is mainly hairline with some polished areas, making this classic piece look even more modern and elegant. Of particular note is the Easy Fit system, which allows for fine adjustments without the use of tools. It's great that you can instantly adapt it to your environment and physical condition.
The Type 20 and Type XX made a spectacular debut with their classic design that returns to their roots and their outstanding movement. The introduction of bracelets will surely further enhance their presence.
