From air, land, and sea to everyday use: What is Breitling's versatile Chronomat watch?

The Breitling Chronomat is an iconic watch from Breitling. This collection, developed as a versatile sports watch compatible with the Air, Land, and Sea models, is arguably a major contributor to the popularity of chronographs in recent years. We'd like to delve deeper into the appeal and history of this collection, which has undergone multifaceted evolution since its introduction in 1984.

What is the Breitling Chronomat?

　Breitling's Chronomat is an all-rounder watch that is suitable for a variety of occasions thanks to its functionality, durability, and stylish design. It comes in a wide variety of versions, ranging from tool-like chronograph models to dazzling three-hand models for women, and is currently being developed as the core collection of the brand.

The name "Chronomat" first appeared in 1942. It was born as the world's first tool watch equipped with a rotating slide rule. Then, in 84, when the brand celebrated its 100th anniversary, the name was revived as a more practical chronograph watch.

　It is worth noting that the Italian Air Force's acrobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori, was brought in as an advisor during the creation of this model. The resulting Chronomat features many professional, combat-ready design features, such as lugs that do not get caught on cuffs, a rotating bezel with four rider tabs for easy operation even while wearing gloves, and a large crown.

　The success of the Chronomat, despite the incorporation of professional advice, is said to have been largely due to the direction of Luigi Macaluso. When the prototype was produced in 83, Ernest Schneider, who had taken over management at Breitling, was in charge of the design, but with Luigi as design advisor, he proposed a wide variety of leather straps, bringing a fashionable element to the Chronomat, which had pursued perfection as a tool.

Portrait of an Iconic Piece: Breitling/Chronomat

http://www.webchronos.net/iconic/14549/

　With the advice of these excellent advisors incorporated, the Chronomat was reborn as a watch that satisfied both the need for a watch as a timekeeping device and as a fashion item. As a result, the Chronomat caught the attention of many users and contributed greatly to the revival of the popularity of mechanical chronograph watches, which had been declining due to the rise of quartz watches.

　The Chronomat has continued to expand its collection and steadily evolve since then. The Chronomat 44, released in 2009, stands out among the brand's many collections. This is because it was the first model to feature Breitling's Cal. 01, an in-house chronograph movement that is still used (and continues to be improved) as Breitling's core movement today.

　Breitling's transition to Georges Kern in 2017 marked another turning point. While each collection was restructured and the concepts for each field, Air, Land, and Sea, were clarified, the Chronomat was also revamped in 20. Major changes were made, primarily to the design, including the return of the original 42mm case and Rouleaux bracelet.

　Currently, the brand offers a wide range of products and has established itself as an "elegant, versatile watch suitable for each of the three fields of AIR, LAND, and SEA."

In-house automatic chronograph movement Cal.01

　One of the reasons why the Chronomat is recognized as Breitling's signature collection is that it was the first watch from the brand to feature the brand's in-house automatic chronograph movement, "Cal. 01."

　Up until then, Chronomat watches had been equipped with either the ETA7750 or the Cal. 13, an improved version of the ETA7750. The ETA7750 is, needless to say, a masterpiece of a chronograph movement. Characterized by its excellent timing performance thanks to its large balance wheel and its high productivity, it remains a movement with a strong presence, as it is used as the base for many brands' chronographs.

　After developing these movements, Breitling finally installed its first in-house developed chronograph movement, the Cal. 01, in the Chronomat 44 in 09. It's a high-performance movement that employs a vertical clutch and column wheel, boasting a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, 28 hours longer than the ETA7750. Another notable feature is the elimination of the prohibited time period for calendar operations. It's also COSC-certified, of course.

　The fact that this in-house movement was the first to be installed further solidified the Chronomat's position as an iconic collection. The Cal. 01, which is now also used in other collections such as the Avenger, is still being improved and is a symbol of Breitling's technological prowess.

Introducing the current Chronomat models

　With the adoption of Cal.01 and a 2020 update, the Chronomat has further strengthened its presence in the watch market. As mentioned above, it is available in a wide variety of functions, materials, and colors. Here, we will introduce three representative models from the current collection.

"Chronomat B01 42"

　While this watch retains the classic style of the current Chronomat models equipped with Caliber 01, it is lightweight thanks to its use of titanium. It features design elements that were revived after the 2020 update, such as the rider tabs and Rouleaux bracelet that make it instantly recognizable as a Chronomat, but users who are used to the heavy Chronomat may be surprised when they hold this watch for the first time.

　The dial is anthracite, with a silver-tone accentuated by a black subdial. The striking, cool light blue chronograph hands are easy to read. The watch's clever blend of modern and classic elements gives it a truly immersive look, brimming with the Chronomat's rich history. It's a timepiece brimming with classic charm.

"Super Chronomat B01 44"

　The Super Chronomat was introduced in 21 as a new variation of the Chronomat. The most obvious difference from the regular Chronomat is the presence or absence of a ceramic insert on the bezel. The inclusion of this bezel increases the proportion of black in this model, giving it the bold look of a modern sports model and the corresponding scratch resistance. Furthermore, the controls have also been changed, with the pushers in particular now screwed in, ensuring airtightness and preventing accidental operation.

　The case size is 44mm, reminiscent of the previous model. Despite its massive appearance, it is only 14.4mm thick. This watch is a bit different from the standard Chronomat, emphasizing its modern essence. The strap is a rubber strap that resembles a Rouleaux bracelet.

"Chronomat Automatic GMT 40"

　The current Chronomat line includes not only chronographs but also GMT models. This particular model stands out with its fashionable green sunray dial. Its philosophy of being a versatile sports watch for any field is fully realized, and it boasts a water resistance of 200m. It also retains iconic design elements such as the onion-shaped crown, four rider tabs, and Rouleaux bracelet.

　The movement is the COSC-certified automatic movement Cal.32. It has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. This model, which was released in 22, had a 40mm diameter, adding a new option to the Chronomat lineup.