Péquignet aims to revive the French manufacture, developing its own movements and producing most of the components that make up those movements in France. In this article, we will briefly introduce Péquignet, starting with the history of France's relationship with watchmaking, and explain the brand's three in-house movements and the "Péquignet Manufacture" lineup that features them.
Text by Shinichi Sato
[Article published on January 6, 2024]

What kind of brand is Pekinier?
Péquigné is a brand founded in 1973 by Emile Péquigné in Morteau, France, in the heart of the Jura Mountains. Switzerland is considered the center of the modern mechanical watch industry, and many people may not associate France with watches, especially manufactures. However, a deeper look into history reveals that France is deeply connected to the current watch industry and watchmaking technology.
The watch industry is particularly thriving in the western part of Switzerland, the region bordering France, and the headquarters of Zenith and Tissot are located in Le Locle, only about 10km away in a straight line from the headquarters of Péquigné.
The reason why the watch industry took root in the area of Switzerland closest to France is that French watchmakers emigrated to Switzerland during the religious persecution in France from the 16th to the 17th century.Impressions of the Péquigné "Concorde"I went into more detail in that, so please refer to that as well.
Although the watch industry remained in France after the 17th century, the traditional watch industry declined significantly with the quartz revolution of the 1970s. Against this historical backdrop, Péquigner aimed to revive the "French manufacture." In its early days, Péquigner was one of the first to use 316L stainless steel, which is now mainstream for wristwatches but was still mainly used for medical purposes in the 70s, in its watches, and its diamond-set ladies' watches became popular.
Péquigné's "French Manufacture"

New for 2024. This is Péquignet's first flying tourbillon model, based on the company's in-house movement, the Calibre Royal (Cal. EPM04). Manually wound (Cal. Royal Tourbillon). 23 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 88 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 44mm, thickness 11.7mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 24 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 1375 million yen (tax included).
The current Péquigné philosophy was solidified after the retirement of founder Emile Péquigné in 2006. By this time, the company had grown to include its own workshop equipped with the latest equipment and employing many watchmakers, and is now recognized by the French government as a French Enterprise for Intangible Cultural Heritage (EPV), a company that possesses "traditional or highly specialized skills that have been passed down since ancient times in a specific region."
So, what kind of products embody the French manufacture that Péquigné claims to be, or serve as the basis for the EPV? Péquigné currently produces three in-house movements. These movements are characterized by the fact that most of their components are manufactured in France, and it is also noteworthy that they feature designs that originate in France.
The first in-house movement, Calibre Royal (Cal. EPM01)

The Calibre Royal (Cal. EPM01) was the first in-house movement developed with financial support from the French government and was released in 2011. Developed with the belief that "originality cannot be born without independence," the Calibre Royal has a unique structure.
The concept is to "minimize mechanical loss to the utmost extent." Its greatest feature is the "center shaft drive," which separates the barrel and first wheel and connects them with a unique shaft part, transmitting the output of the mainspring directly to the rotating shaft of the first wheel. This ensures that only the rotational force necessary to operate the watch is transmitted to the output shaft, preventing wobble and misalignment of the entire gear train and achieving highly efficient power transmission.
The watch also employs a design concept that allows various functions to be realized without modules. While incorporating functional modules is an effective method for achieving multiple functions, it is prone to loss at the connection points. To avoid this, a 5.88mm thick baseplate is prepared, divided into 140 layers, on which each function can be installed. The rotor for automatic winding is based on a curved design that resembles the familiar French "fleur-de-lis" (iris flower emblem), with the emblem placed at the center of the rotor and positioned to overlap with the balance wheel.
The EPM01 is currently used in the Royal Saphir and Royal Origin Cinq Fonction GMT, among others. Furthermore, the 18KRG model of the Royal Saphir Perlage has been certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory.

Automatic movement (Cal. EPM01). 39 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 88 hours. 18KRG case (42mm diameter, 12.3mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to three pieces worldwide. 517 million yen (tax included).
The Royal Saphir is Péquignet's flagship watch. In addition to being equipped with the Caliber EPM01, the Royal Saphir Perlage eliminates the dial to make the movement visible. This exposes the mechanisms, such as the flat three-disc jumping day-date and moon phase, allowing you to fully enjoy Péquignet's in-house movement with your eyes.
The circular grain finish on the base plate is a testament to Péquigné's meticulous work and adds an accent to the design.
The Royal Saphir Perlage is available in both stainless steel and 18K rose gold. The Royal Saphir itself is produced in limited quantities, and the 18K rose gold model is extremely rare, with only three pieces produced worldwide. Furthermore, the movement in this model is the only one to be certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory.


The Calibre Royal Manual (Cal. EPM02) is a hand-wound movement that inherits the design concept of the first model.

The Calibre Royal Manual (Cal. EPM02) is a derivative model of the Cal. EPM01, and as its name suggests, it is a movement that has been converted to a manual winding system. In converting it to a manual winding system, not only was the automatic winding mechanism removed from the Cal. EPM02, but the gear train from the barrel onwards was also newly designed.
While retaining the center shaft drive characteristic of Cal.EPM01, the structure predicated on multi-functionality has been stripped away. As a result, a layout has been achieved in which the fourth wheel is at the 6 o'clock position, making it possible to place the small seconds at 6 o'clock, which is noteworthy. The "winding comfort" that is a desired feature in any manual-winding watch has also been improved in Cal.EPM02.
The bridges and plates are composed of curved lines, giving a soft impression reminiscent of French style. The large barrel housing the central shaft drive and the circular plate at the center of the movement that matches it are the unique highlights of this watch.
Completely redesigned, new-generation core movement "Calibre Initial (Cal. EPM03)"

The Calibre Initial (Cal. EPM03) is a completely newly designed movement that can be said to mark the beginning of the second chapter of the French Manufacture. While the Cal. EPM01 was characterized by a large baseplate that anticipated multi-functionality, the Cal. EPM03 has a simple basic design as a three-hand movement with a center second hand, while emphasizing versatility by allowing for the addition of modules that can be fitted to add functions.
This design philosophy is in line with the trends of other manufacturers in recent years, and it appears that it is being designed as the core movement of Péquignet's new generation. The movement design has also been completely redesigned to coincide with the new design, and instead of the previous circular design, it now features a large plate and a flowing decoration centered around the balance wheel axis, known as escargot decoration.
The tungsten rotor is the "Fontaine Royale rotor," inspired by the fountains found in French gardens. The operation feel for setting the time has also been improved, with the crown operation being smooth with just the right amount of weight, and there is little play when moving the movement forward or backward. For the Cal.EPM03, 72% of the components are manufactured in France, with the remainder made in Switzerland.
Pekinier's representative model
Now, let's introduce some representative models equipped with these movements.
Royal Saphir

Automatic movement (Cal. EPM01). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 88 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 12.3mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 638,000 yen (tax included).
The Royal Saphir features the Caliber EPM01 movement, which has four functions: small seconds, power reserve indicator, flat three-disc jumping day-date, and moon phase display, and its dial is made of sapphire crystal. The design is a continuation of the Royal Origin Quatre Fonction, which also has four functions, and is characterized by the orderly arrangement of multiple functions in a design that combines classic and contemporary elements.
Attitude

Automatic movement (Cal. EPM03). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.05mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 638,000 yen (tax included).
The Attitude three-hand model was released in 2021, coinciding with the announcement of the new generation movement, Cal. EMP03. The design is a classic classic, with a round case, thin lugs, and a simple, unadorned dial.
The case is compact and thin by modern standards, measuring 39mm in diameter and 9.05mm thick. This silhouette makes it suitable for a wide range of occasions and fashions. With this size, it can be considered a unisex model that can also be worn by women.
Concorde

Automatic movement (Cal. EPM03). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 9.25mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 2,255,000 yen (tax included).
The latest Pequignet model is equipped with the same Caliber EMP03 as the Attitude. This model was released to mark the 50th anniversary of the company's founding in 23, and is a sporty chic piece that can be called a new innovation for Pequignet, featuring a bracelet.
The design is inspired by the Place de la Concorde, a place deeply connected to French history, and its square case, circular dial, and oval hour and minute hands give a glimpse of its inspiration. The case is thin at 9.25mm, and its silhouette, based on a satin finish and composed of soft curves, matches not only casual occasions but also jacket styles. A 36mm diameter model with the same design code is also available, making this a model that can be enjoyed by a wide range of people.
A French Manufacture on Your Wrist
The Pékinier lineup, especially the Attitude and Concorde models released in recent years, are simple and understated, with designs that exude elegance and refinement. Ugu Souparis, the current owner and president of Pékinier, describes the Pékinier customer as "someone with a free spirit who loves beautiful things. Someone who doesn't like to show off and prefers quiet luxury," and this model is a perfect fit.
Péquignée aims to revive French manufacture and is actively engaged in manufacturing within France, and the products they offer are infused with French design essence, which can be said to reflect France's cultural background.
This watch is sure to be an attractive choice for those who fit Péquigné's user profile, as well as those involved in French cuisine, fashion, and other cultures. If you're interested, we encourage you to try it on your wrist at a store.

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