Louis Moinet gives shape to dreams. The power of imagination.

Since its founding in 2004, Louis Moinet has been creating unique timepieces. The company's collection, featuring luxurious and unique mechanisms, has now attracted devoted collectors around the world. Jean-Marie Schaller is the man who brought this once-forgotten genius watchmaker back to life. Just as Louis Moinet did in the past, his 21st-century successor continues to work passionately on creating the watches of the future.

Jean-Marie Schaller: Resurrecting a Forgotten Genius Watchmaker

　Louis Moinet has produced some of the most bizarre timepieces. While there are many watchmakers in the world, their ability to weave diverse stories is perhaps unparalleled in the watch industry. It was founder and CEO Jean-Marie Schaller who gave the company a clear direction.

　After working at the import trading company SiberHegner (now DKSH) to revive various brands, he revived Perrelet and later became independent as CEO. Later, he learned from his old acquaintance Daniel Roth about the genius watchmaker Louis Moinet, who was active in the 18th century.

"After Daniel Roth left Breguet, I flew to Tokyo with him. Over wine, he told me, 'You should have your own brand, and Louis Moinet is the perfect choice.'"

　Born in 1768, Louis Moinet was an incredibly versatile man. Born in France, he studied architecture, sculpture, and painting in Rome, and was appointed professor of fine arts at the Académie des Beaux-Arts in the Louvre at the tender age of 27. Even during the revolution, he must have been extremely talented. He eventually developed a passion for timepieces, creating clocks and watches. He also distinguished himself as a watchmaker, becoming a friend and advisor to Abraham-Louis Breguet, serving as president of the Paris Chronometer Society, and later compiling a treatise on horological theory.

　Louis Moinet, a professor of fine arts at the Academie, was closer to artists than even the most accomplished watchmakers of his time. It's no surprise, then, that he specialized in decorative clocks rather than compact watches. The magnificent clocks he created adorned the rooms of royalty and aristocrats, including Napoleon Bonaparte, Tsar Alexander I of Russia, and King George IV of England. He continued to be active, but after his death in 1853, his name was forgotten.

　Jean-Marie Schaller, who discovered Louis Moinet on the recommendation of Roth, described the Renaissance watchmaker as "both a watchmaker and an artist." It was only natural that Louis Moinet, which was revived in 2004, would create dazzling, luxurious watches reminiscent of the clocks of yesteryear. After purchasing a chronograph made by Louis Moinet, Schaller defined it as follows: "The DNA of Louis Moinet is the mechanical wonder exemplified by the chronograph and the cosmic art symbolized by the astronomical clock."

　The chronograph Schaller acquired was not only the world's first officially recognized chronograph, but also a groundbreaking one with an ultra-high vibration rate of 216,000 vibrations per hour and a zero-reset mechanism. He says, "Ever since the company was founded, when we were searching for what we wanted to do, I had been searching for a chronograph made by Louis Moinet. By chance, one came up for auction, and I won the bid."

"I started Louis Moinet all by myself. It was fate that I founded this company," says Schaller. To be honest, there is no connection between the genius watchmaker of the 19th century and the Schaller of today. It is no coincidence that Schaller, conceiving the watches of the future in the imagination room at the company's headquarters, looks just like the genius watchmaker of the 19th century. The power of imagination has always been the driving force behind making dreams come true.

Louis Moinet's high-end watchmaking, realized through the pursuit of the same dream

"The difference between Concept and other companies is our family mentality," asserts Louis Moinet CEO Jean-Marie Schaller. While he boasts that he "started Louis Moinet all by himself," it's no doubt that he has achieved his current success thanks to the people around him. Schaller, who also holds the title of creative director in addition to CEO, chose Concept from among many suppliers to give shape to his bubbling imagination. The deciding factor was "a relationship of trust based on friendship and passion."

　Jean-Marie Schaller says he started Louis Moinet all by himself. However, just like Louis Moinet before him, he was blessed with the people around him. Schaller's ally was Valérien Jaquet, founder of Concept. He co-founded Concept with his father and grew it into a company known for designing and manufacturing luxury watch movements. Today, Concept is known for its collaborations with brands like Jacob & Co., but when Schaller founded it, it was not as famous as it is today.

　Schaller says, "We visited several movement suppliers because we needed reliability. I built a relationship with Jean-Pierre, Valérien's father, based on friendship and passion. What sets our concept apart from other companies is our family mentality." Jaquet adds, "To be honest, at the time I wasn't convinced of the potential of Louis Moinet, but we quickly shared our passion." But wasn't it a risk to partner with a new movement company?

"Valérian's father is a legend in the Swiss watch industry, and he created amazing movements even before Concept," Jaquet said. "We found a way to talk together because we share our passion." However, it seems the process wasn't easy. "I would come up with too many ideas, which frustrated Valérian, so now we're more focused on our work, which means we've narrowed it down to one idea," Schaller said. However, as they talk about watches over drinks, Jaquet and Schaller's relationship goes beyond business and shows they are allies.

　Jaquet said: "Commercial interests are important, but passion takes precedence. And for us, our relationship with Louis Moinet is special, it is the foundation of everything, because we share the same values."

　Guillaume Tripet, the manager, gave us a tour of the factory. Currently, the company produces small quantities of complex movements, while also supplying high-quality ébauches to major manufacturers. Concept makes completely different types of movements, but the basic quality remains the same. "That's why we produce both types of movements in the same factory, in the same room," says Tripet.

　Concept's strengths lie in its ability to carry out prototyping, design, R&D, component manufacturing and assembly, and even final inspections. "We are a true manufacture, with around 30 different métiers (jobs) within the company," says Tripe.

　The manufacturing of the base plate and bridges is where Concept's true strength is apparent. Brass plates are pressed into a round shape and then carefully annealed to remove any distortion. The blank is then shaved down to 3.2 mm to complete the work. The drilled blank is then polished with a classic polishing machine to completely remove any surface distortion. This may seem obvious, but only if the skeleton is in order can various complex mechanisms be mounted.

　However, when it comes to complex movements like those used by Louis Moinet, the parts used are different. Mass-produced parts are manufactured by pressing and cutting. However, this method makes it difficult to process more precise parts, such as the chronograph regulation springs and levers.

　This is done using a wire EDM, which cuts out precision parts such as springs by passing an electric current through a wire.While this is a familiar machine at many manufacturers, it is rare to find a manufacturer with eight wire EDMs, each costing 1 million Swiss francs.

　The machines used to cut the parts are also luxurious. The large components are machined on a 5-axis machining center, the Willemin Macodel 408S2. At 200 million Swiss francs, it is one of the most expensive machines you'll find in a Swiss manufacturer.

"We have about 200 machine tools in our factory, and we replace 10 of them with new ones every year," says Tripe. By constantly introducing the latest machines, Concept is able to improve the micron-level tolerances that are essential for the production of complicated watches.

　What's interesting is the manufacturing process for small parts. Concept not only manufactures gears, but also screws. "Since the company was founded, we have been making our own screws. These parts fall into two categories: those made 100% by hand, and those made by machine and hand." Of course, the machined screws are hardened depending on where they will be used. Incidentally, the screws used by Louis Moinet are the most luxurious, with their heads completely polished and the slots rounded. Concept's manufacturing philosophy is to improve the basic quality of the parts and then differentiate them through the finish.

　What we came across in the assembly department was none other than the Astronef. Watches with two tourbillons are not uncommon these days, but in this case, one rotates counterclockwise once every 10 minutes, and the other rotates clockwise every five minutes. Of course, because it's a tourbillon, the carriage also rotates once every 60 seconds. The technical prowess of the concept is overwhelming, as they managed to complete this. The assembly person said, "We make Louis Moinet complicated watches here. All of our watches are not only checked in the lab, but are also certified Chronofiable."

　Tripe says, "Concept's most valuable asset is not the latest machines or technology, but the people who work behind the workbenches. That's why we have the utmost respect for our colleagues, because they are so unique and if we lose someone it's very difficult to replace them." Concept gives shape to Jean-Marie Schaller's passion. It is always people who make dreams come true.

The Astronef awaits its final check in the workshop. The movement, which features two tourbillons that move clockwise and counterclockwise, is made up of a whopping 471 parts. It's no wonder that it takes about a month just to assemble the movement.

Astronev
Louis Moinet now professes to be a brand of cosmic art. The Astronef features two tourbillons that resemble celestial bodies. It took approximately three years to create the gimmick of each rotating at high speed in opposite directions. Manual winding (Cal. LM105). 56 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18KPG or Ti case (diameter 43.5mm, thickness 18.3mm). Water resistant to 10m. Limited to eight pieces worldwide. The 18KPG case is priced at 77 million yen (tax included), while the Ti case is priced at 69.3 million yen (tax included).

Louis Moinet's "Elegance" and "Beauty"
An atelier that realizes "originality"

All of Louis Moinet's collections, except for the tourbillon, are assembled in a specialized atelier. This is handled by a manufacturer that specializes in assembly. Just like other companies' products, not only the movements but also the casings are assembled, but because high quality is required, a dedicated space is set aside for Louis Moinet. This attitude of "quality above all else" brings a high level of perfection to Louis Moinet watches.

　Louis Moinet watches are assembled by Meissier, a manufacturer that specializes in assembling watches. With 160 employees and many well-known manufacturers as clients, the company has dedicated a dedicated space for Louis Moinet. Jean-Maurice Donzé, the company's CEO, explained, "We were good friends with Jean-Marie, as we were from the same hometown. So when he started his own company, he asked if he could use our company." It's typical of Schaller to advance business through personal connections.

　However, due to the complexity of Louis Moinet watches, the company has taken the trouble to set up a separate space specifically for assembling Louis Moinet watches. Matthew Ping, who has worked at Meissier for 17 years and at Louis Moinet for 12, says, "They are elegant and unique, but they are difficult to assemble and adjust."

　On-site, watchmakers were assembling Memories movements. Adjustment takes longer than assembly itself, so only two can be assembled at a time. "There may be delays, but quality is more important." The most interesting part was bending the chronograph hands. To bend the tips, watchmakers use plastic rollers. Then, they attach them to the dial and check that they are aligned with the indexes.

"Louis Moinet watches use materials such as aventurine not only for the dial but also for the main plate, which makes them prone to scratches. This is why unusual work is required, such as attaching the bridges after the hands have been installed. The aesthetics must also be perfect. This is why we assemble Louis Moinet watches in a separate space."

Louis Moinet: A fountainhead of imagination
Synergy between R&D and museums

The Louis Moinet collection exudes a unique presence. The source of its creations, which transcend time and country, can be found at the company's headquarters in Switzerland. The imagination space where the company's CEO, Jean-Marie Schaller, hatches his ideas, and the R&D department that gives them form. In the headquarters, filled with his dreams, and the accompanying museum, Schaller quietly develops ideas for new products.

　Louis Moinet started out in a garage behind a house, and in 2013 moved to the small town of Saint-Blaise in the canton of Neuchâtel. The old-fashioned building, which blends in with the surrounding scenery, was once a bank. "At first, they recommended another location on the same street, but this place was better. Because it was a former bank, the walls and glass were thick. It's a place where you can get your imagination and energy from," says Jean-Marie Schaller.

　Currently, the headquarters employs 10 staff members, with Ludovic Balasz in charge of the R&D department.

"We develop products based on Jean-Marie's ideas and drawings. He travels a lot, so he has ideas that you never expect."

　He works out ideas for new products in the Imagination Room, located on the first floor of a separate building. Originally a farm barn, it has been completely renovated to become a Louis Moinet museum and free space. The items on display are from a variety of eras and countries. In the center of the room, surrounded by space suits, meteorites, and machine tools from the past, stands a huge iron table. Schaller shows us the materials. "This is a repurposed door from the Martini, a local car factory," he explains, making it extremely unique. At the very least, it seems that Louis Moinet watches would not take shape without a background like this.

　During the interview, it was noticeable how many people seemed to be talking to Schaller in a friendly manner. His dreams and passion have drawn many people in, and are driving the evolution of Louis Moinet watches.