Grand Seiko dials are driving trends in the watch industry. Let's take a look at their capabilities through three noteworthy models!

Many brands have been focusing on dials recently. Each company has poured their efforts into making this part, which can be considered the face of the watch, even more attractive. Among them, Grand Seiko has attracted attention for its rich expressiveness that embodies a uniquely Japanese aesthetic. This time, we will take a look at three models from the brand and unravel their appeal.

We explore the appeal of Grand Seiko's expressive dials.

Advances in manufacturing technology have made it possible to create a wide variety of expressions on dials. Each manufacturer has devised and implemented a variety of techniques to reflect the brand's worldview on this small canvas. One brand that has attracted particular attention is Grand Seiko. Since its introduction in 1960, Grand Seiko has consistently incorporated excellent practicality, such as visibility and readability, into its dials. In recent years, however, the brand has also incorporated methods of expression based on a uniquely Japanese aesthetic sense inspired by nature.

Grand Seiko dials are produced through five major processes: mold production, stamping, fabric finishing, coloring, and surface finishing. The mold is produced by abstractly carving the motif, and the pattern is transferred to the dial through one or more presses. The process outlines the process: controlling light reflection using a variety of finishes, including radial, grained, and honed, adding color through plating or painting, and finally applying multiple coats of clear lacquer before polishing it smooth. Of course, for dials that do not require stamping, the first two processes are omitted, but the delicate control required to express the motif on the dial remains the same.

Here we have selected three Grand Seiko models with attractive dials and will explain the features of each model.

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection" Ref. SLGH005

This masterpiece from Grand Seiko was released in 2021 and won the Men's Watch category at that year's GPHG (Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix). The intricately patterned dial, created by die-cutting, is inspired by the birch forests that spread near Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in Iwate Prefecture, where Grand Seiko mechanical models are manufactured. Watch enthusiasts affectionately call it "Shirakaba" (white birch).

The dial pattern is created from a mold that has been manually carved using a machine. By pressing the mold once a day for seven days, the pattern is gradually transferred to create a dial with a three-dimensional feel. A hairline finish is then applied to accentuate the shadows, and silver plating and lapping are added to achieve a unique, shining white color. The dial exudes a sense of dynamism and depth, evoking the image of a birch forest stretching endlessly.

The appeal of this watch goes beyond the dial. Launched in 2020, it features Grand Seiko's new mechanical movement, the Cal. 9SA5. It features a highly efficient dual impulse escapement and twin barrels that combine a high beat rate of 10 vibrations per second with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours, as well as the Grand Seiko Free Sprung, which ensures stable accuracy. Another notable feature is that the wheel train structure has been revised to make it thinner than the previous Cal. 9S series.

The case design is based on the unique "Evolution 9 Style" design grammar, which is an evolution of the traditional "Seiko Style." It combines aesthetics based on Japanese aesthetics and a sense of nature, high visibility thanks to well-defined hands and indexes, and a stable fit.

Grand Seiko "Elegance Collection" Ref.SBGM221

This GMT model features a classic design. Although the GS logo has been moved to the 12 o'clock position since the SBGM021 was released in 2010, the classic feel of this model has remained constant since its inception, making it a long-selling Grand Seiko model.

The dial is a warm cream color with a lacquer finish. The thick coating is then polished to give it a deep appearance and high weather resistance.

The second time zone can be read using the arrow-shaped blued steel hands and the elegant 24-hour display. The faceted indexes and hands, characteristic of Grand Seiko, give the watch a sharp shine and ensure excellent visibility.

The rounded case lines are another distinctive feature of this watch. The large, raised box-shaped sapphire crystal shines with the same brilliance as the plastic crystals of vintage watches. Meanwhile, the lugs add a subtle modern touch, with Zaratsu-polished edges creating a sharp impression.

The watch is equipped with a mechanical automatic movement, Cal. 9S66. By using MEMS (Micro Electro Mechanical Systems), a processing technology used in semiconductor manufacturing, on the escape wheel and anchor, the watch ensures a power reserve of approximately three days and stability. The GMT function allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently, making it convenient to adjust the time difference when traveling abroad without having to stop the watch.

The see-through case back is secured to the middle case by six screws, allowing the movement and finish inside to be admired.

Grand Seiko "Sports Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition" Ref. SBGC275

This limited edition model commemorates the 20th anniversary of the birth of Cal. 9R, Grand Seiko's exclusive Spring Drive movement. The design is inspired by the lion, the symbol of Grand Seiko.

The striking red dial features a embossed pattern reminiscent of a lion's mane. The color, which changes freely depending on the viewing angle, is the result of a newly developed, patented optical multi-layer coating technique. The multiple layers of PVD coating represent the Hotaka mountain range, gradually turning red in the sunlight on a summer morning. The dial captures the majestic scenery of Shinshu, where Grand Seiko Spring Drive models are manufactured, making it a fitting commemorative model.

The case, which is mainly composed of surfaces, is made of bright titanium, which is lighter and more scratch-resistant than stainless steel, and has a shining white aesthetic despite being titanium. The distinctive shape of the lugs is based on the motif of a lion's front paws, which lowers the center of gravity and improves the fit.

The movement is the Cal. 9R96, specially adjusted based on the Cal. 9R86. It achieves high accuracy with an average monthly deviation of ±10 seconds, and as proof of this, the rotor visible through the case back is adorned with an 18K yellow gold lion emblem. Its versatility is also appealing, with chronograph, GMT, date display, and power reserve indicator. While the number of displays on the dial has increased in line with its functions, the watch incorporates innovations to enhance visibility and readability, such as vertically aligned counters, a 24-hour bezel, and sharp hands and indexes.