A look at the cutting edge of pilot's watches through five models from popular brands

2026.08.21

We've carefully selected five current pilot watches to introduce to you. Pilot watches were created to support pilots in the harsh environment of the cockpit, and their high legibility and robustness make them a prime example of practical watches that are also useful in everyday life.

Breguet Type 20 2057

Written by Tsubasa Nojima
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 13, 2024]
2026/8/21 update


Pilot watches have supported the development of human history behind the scenes. We introduce some of their most famous models.

The Wright Brothers succeeded in the world's first manned powered flight in a fixed-wing aircraft in 1903. Subsequently, Louis Blériot successfully flew across the English Channel in 1909, and Charles Lindbergh achieved a non-stop flight across the Atlantic in 1927. Aircraft have evolved remarkably, and today they are used as a common means of long-distance transportation.

Pilot watches, which pilots wear on their wrists, have contributed to this development. In order to accurately calculate flight time and current location and ensure safe flights, pilot watches that can respond to changes in magnetism, vibrations, and air pressure and allow instant confirmation of the time even while flying are essential.

This time, we will introduce five masterpieces from the pilot's watches offered by brands that have supported the development of human history behind the scenes. While there are probably not many people who can actually fly an aircraft, the legibility and robustness cultivated over a long history are sure to bring great benefits to everyday life. In selecting the models, we have also considered those that are not excessively rare and are readily available for purchase.

IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX, Ref. IW328204

The current model in the IWC Mark series began with the "Mark 11" introduced in 1948. The basic design follows that of its predecessor, the "Mark XVIII," and its simple dial, combining Arabic numeral indices and lousange-style hour and minute hands, ensures high visibility and legibility in any environment. A date display is located at the 3 o'clock position, making it a consistently popular choice as a business watch.

The model featured here is a sunray-finish blue dial model that subdues the military feel. Pilot watches tend to have a rather dull impression, but the vibrant blue of this model gives it a definite presence on the wrist.

The satin-finished case is given a three-dimensional look by polishing the bezel and edges. The lugs have been shortened compared to the previous model, making it easier to handle. The heavy-duty stainless steel bracelet can be easily removed from the case thanks to the "EasX-CHANGE" system. The movement is Cal. 32111, which has a long power reserve of approximately 120 hours.

IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX

IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX, Ref. IW328204
Maintaining its simple design, IWC's Mark series steadily improves in quality. The current model, the "Pilot's Watch Mark XX," is equipped with a high-spec movement featuring a long power reserve. Automatic winding (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 10.8mm thickness). 100m water resistance. 1,136,300 yen (including tax). (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868

Longines "Longines Spirit Zulu Time" Ref.L3.802.4.63.6

Longines is a long-established brand founded in 1832. The company has supported many adventurers throughout its long history. The Longines Spirit collection was born out of this historical background and was inspired by the "Longines Spirit Zulu Time," a model equipped with a GMT function, inspired by the "Z flag" on the dial of the company's first GMT wristwatch, which was released in 1925.

The matte black dial features 3D Arabic numerals outlined in gold and five stars to indicate high precision. The bidirectional rotating bezel with 24-hour indication is made of elegant deep green ceramic. When combined with the GMT hand, it can display the time in up to three time zones simultaneously.

The case features striking sharp edges and a compact diameter of 39mm. It is water resistant to 10 bar, making it perfect for everyday use.

The Cal. L844.4 movement has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and uses a silicon balance spring that is highly resistant to magnetism.

Longines Longines Spirit Zulu Time

Longines "Longines Spirit Zulu Time" Ref. L3.802.4.63.6
This is a green bezel model of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, given a retro color scheme. The five stars shining at the 6 o'clock position on the dial are a sign of high precision. Automatic winding (Cal. L844.4). 21 jewels. 25,200 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 13.5mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 489,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Longines Tel. 03-6254-7350

Breguet Type 20 2057, Ref. 2057ST/92/3WU

This is a reissue of the Type 20, a pilot chronograph with a flyback mechanism developed in the 1950s at the request of the French Air Force. It faithfully reproduces the original design, including the large 30-minute counter at the 3 o'clock position, pump-shaped pushers, conical crown, and solid rotating bezel.

The case is mainly satin-finished, and like a classic pilot's watch, it is not flashy, but the clear edges of the lugs, bezel, and crown give it a sense of tension that is typical of a high-end watch.

Of particular note is the newly developed automatic chronograph movement, Cal. 7281. This movement is designed to emphasize the stability of the flyback mechanism, including a strong reset hammer with linear motion. Furthermore, it boasts modern specifications, including a high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, which ensures high portable accuracy, a silicon escape wheel, anchor, and balance spring, which are highly antimagnetic, and a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

Breguet Type 20 2057

Breguet Type 20 2057, Ref. 2057ST/92/3WU
This model is a复刻 (reproduction) of a chronograph watch that was once supplied to the French Air Force. It features a new movement with a robust flyback mechanism. Automatic winding (Cal. 7281). 34 jewels. 36,000 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 14.1mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. 2,970,000 yen (including tax). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, Ref. AB0138211B1P1

Breitling has produced numerous pilot's watches, and one of the company's most iconic collections is the Navitimer. Equipped with an aviation slide rule that can calculate fuel consumption, distance, speed, and more, the Navitimer allows users to instantly perform any calculation by rotating the bezel, and has been the watch of choice for many pilots since its launch in 1952.

Among the Navitimer models, the one that deserves special attention is the "Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43." While the 2022 model change brought back the AOPA logo at the 12 o'clock position, revised the date display, and omitted the tachymeter, the basic design, including the distinctive aviation slide rule and three sub-dials, remains unchanged since 1952, inheriting the iconic design that follows the functions designed to support pilots.

While the first model was equipped with a manual-winding chronograph movement, this model uses the company's in-house automatic chronograph movement, Cal. 01. Designed for robustness and ease of maintenance, with no blackout period for changing the date, a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, and COSC-certified chronometer accuracy, Cal. 01 boasts high specifications that meet the trust of pilots.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, Ref. AB0138211B1P1
A Breitling pilot's watch that rivals the "Chronomat." While retaining the basic design of the original, it has been updated to suit the times. Automatic winding (Cal.01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (43mm diameter, 13.6mm thickness). 3 ATM water resistance. 1,331,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) House of Brands Japan Co., Ltd. Tel. 0120-105-707

Hamilton "Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono" Ref. H76409140

The "Khaki" collection tells the story of Hamilton's long history of supplying military watches to the U.S. military. The collection consists of "Khaki Field" for land, "Khaki Navy" for sea, and "Khaki Aviation Pilot" for the air.

The model featured here is the 2025 release of the Khaki Aviation Pilot. It is a reissue of the pilot's watch that Hamilton manufactured for the Royal Air Force in the 1970s.

As befits a pilot's watch, high legibility is ensured by white indices and large hour and minute hands, but it's not purely practical; the sunray-finished blue dial contributes to a sophisticated impression. The symmetrical and neat layout, due to the non-date design, will likely appeal to watch enthusiasts.

 The case is asymmetrical, and the satin finish on all parts except the push buttons and crown emphasizes its tool-like quality as a pilot's watch. The 40mm diameter case size is a basic modern standard, making it a perfect match for suits.

It is equipped with the classic hand-wound chronograph movement Cal.H-51-Si. Although the mechanism is classic, it boasts a power reserve of approximately 60 hours and magnetic resistance, making it noteworthy that it offers the enjoyment of a vintage retro watch with modern specifications.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pioneer Mechanical Chrono

Hamilton "Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono" Ref. H76409140
Based on the high practicality of a military watch, the Khaki Aviation chronograph model boasts a package suitable for everyday use. While the manual winding mechanism is classic, it has a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, making its specifications modern. Manual winding (Cal. H-51-Si). 25 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 14.35mm thickness). 10 ATM water resistance. 357,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Hamilton/Swatch Group Japan Tel. 03-6254-7371


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