The editorial team at Chronos Japan has selected watches that you can use (or want to use) for the rest of your life!

We often hear phrases like "a watch that lasts a lifetime." The type of watch that can be used, or that people want to use, for a lifetime will vary from user to user. In this article, members of the editorial staff at Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, will each introduce two watches that they consider to be "lifetime watches." The members are Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, and editors Taketo Hosoda, Chieko Tsuruoka, and Yosuke Ohashi.

What kind of watch can you use (or want to use) for a lifetime?

　The phrase "lifetime watch" is often used in the world of watches. When it comes to a watch that can be used for a lifetime, various factors can be considered, such as a brand with a long-term maintenance system in place, or a model with a design that can be used for a long time even as you get older. However, it is also important that the owner feels that "I want to use it for the rest of my life" or "I want to spend my whole life with it."

　This time, members of the editorial staff at Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, selected two watches that they thought would be "something you could use for the rest of your life" and two watches that they would want to use for the rest of your life. There were no other conditions for the selection, other than that they had to be current models.

Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota's "Lifetime Watch"

①IWC "Portugieser Chronograph"

　People say my tastes have changed recently, but I'm fundamentally an IWC geek. The Portugieser is my favorite among them. I've owned five watches so far: the Portugieser Jubilee, the Small Gieser, the Portugieser Rattrapante, the Portugieser 2000, and the Portugieser Chronograph. While I'm not a collector, I think I can call myself a geek.

　The reason I love this collection is because it's a well-balanced watch. It's large, highly legible, well-packaged, and can be worn in any situation. I like all the models, but if I had to choose just one, I'd recommend the Portugieser Chronograph.

　This model, released in the 1990s, featured a modified ETA 7750 movement housed in a case that looked thin considering the movement. Its diameter was 40.9mm and its thickness was 12.7mm. Normally, a watch of this size would be considered a muscular sports watch. However, by narrowing the bezel and hands, the Portugieser Chronograph managed to give the impression of being more of a dress watch.

　Since then, IWC has added various colors to this model and even replaced the movement with one made in-house. However, they have not changed the design at all, because it was already so well-made. I'm sure the Portugieser Chronograph will continue to be made into various variations in the future, but the design will likely never change. In my opinion, this is one of the coolest icons in the world, and it will remain so for a long time to come.

②Omega "Speedmaster Moonwatch"

　I once spoke with a friend who told me his interest in watches had grown. When I asked him why, he said it was because he had acquired a Rolex Submariner. "When I wear this watch, I lose my desire for watches," he said. If I were to name one such watch, it would be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. I'd bought it several times before, so I didn't think I needed another. However, the latest version was overwhelmingly refined. As a result of the Master Chronometer-certified movement, the heavy soft-iron inner case was eliminated from the case. The bracelet was also lightened accordingly, resulting in a watch that's approximately 40 grams lighter overall. Despite being a manual-winding, low-beat movement, the accuracy is astonishing, and the luminous paint carved into the dial glows for much longer than previous models. And the case is of high quality, typical of modern Omega. Frankly, the earliest Master Chronometer-certified models were a little too edgy. However, Omega seems to have gained some expertise in case craftsmanship, as recent models have a nicely rounded edge.

　To be honest, the price is by no means cheap. When I got it, it was over 70 yen, and with the recent weakening of the yen, it has risen to over 100 million yen. It feels like a different era when you could buy one for 25 yen. However, considering its features and high level of finish, it is still attractive. Of course, there are other chronographs that are more attractive than this one. However, in terms of usability, it is unlikely that there is anything that can rival the Speedmaster Moonwatch. My recommendation is, of course, the model with a plastic crystal. However, if you choose a current model with a light head, there should be no significant difference in wearing comfort even if you choose a heavy sapphire crystal.

Deputy Editor-in-Chief Suzuki Yukiya's "Lifetime Watch"

① Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Model"

What are the necessary requirements for a "watch that can be used for a lifetime?" First of all, if you consider long-term use, it must be robust, resistant to breakdowns, and accurate as a tool for telling time. If you consider the rest of your own life, you want it to last another 30 to 40 years. Not only that, but nowadays, watches go beyond being mere tools; they must have an "emotional" presence that appeals to the owner's sensibilities, otherwise they cannot become a "partner" that will accompany you through a long life.

　In other words, precision and durability are the minimum requirements for a practical item, but in addition, it can be said to meet all the necessary requirements if it also has a design that you won't tire of even after long use, is comfortable to wear, and has such high emotional value that you feel joy just from owning it.

　When I thought about the watch that would meet these necessary and sufficient requirements, the one that most appealed to me was the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours, which was announced in 2024. This is the SLGW003 model, with a brilliant hard titanium case that is suitable for everyday use.

　This watch is equipped with Grand Seiko's latest manual-winding movement, the Caliber 9SA4. Because it's manual-winding, the case is slim, measuring just under 10mm thick at 9.95mm, and just the right size with a diameter of just under 40mm at 38.6mm. Combined with the lightweight brilliant hard titanium case, it provides an excellent wearing comfort. The finish combines polished and hairline finishes, exuding Grand Seiko's signature style and shape while exuding just the right amount of luxury. The dial features a horizontal pattern, commonly known as "birchbark," inspired by the bark of white birch trees. This creates a sense of variety for the viewer, preventing boredom and adding just the right amount of individuality.

　Of particular note is the Cal. 9SA4 movement that this hand-wound watch is equipped with. Although it is hand-wound, it has a power reserve of approximately 80 hours, so it only needs to be wound at a moderate pace of once every three days, rather than every day. The greatest highlight is the winding feel. It is neither too heavy nor too light, and the winding feel that leaves a pleasant aftertaste in your fingertips every time you wind it is literally an addictive sensation. Once you get used to this winding feel, it's so comfortable that you'll find yourself wanting to wind it again and again.

　This model, which embodies what could be called the "aesthetics of moderation" that is just right in every way, is a watch that you can use and want to use for the rest of your life, and has an exquisite balance that is both necessary and sufficient to last you for decades.

② Raymond Weil "Millesime Small Second"

Another model I would like to recommend as a watch that can be worn for a lifetime is the Raymond Weil Millésime Small Seconds. I fell in love with this Millésime at first sight when I saw it in person during an interview with Raymond Weil's CEO, Elie Bernheim.

　As Bernheim emphasizes, the watch features a design that skillfully modernizes classical elements by incorporating contemporary trends. In his words, it is a model that inherits and beautifully embodies the "values ​​that emanate from heritage." This is further evidenced by the fact that it won the Challenge Award at the 2023 Geneva Grand Prix Watchmaking (GPHG).

　Although I boasted at the beginning that I wanted to recommend this watch as a watch that could be worn for a lifetime, I have actually already purchased this model. It is the very model that won the Challenge Award at GPHG2023. Unfortunately, because it is a strap model, I am refraining from wearing it for the time being during the height of the summer heat wave, but I plan to wear it regularly from late summer to early autumn, gradually getting used to it as a watch that can be worn for a lifetime.

Yuto Hosoda's "lifetime watch"

①H. Moser & Cie. "Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack®"

The theme was "A watch you can wear for a lifetime." How you interpret this phrase will greatly affect your choice of watch. As someone who easily gets bored, I decided to choose a watch that I would want to wear for the rest of my life without cheating on it, rather than considering the practical implications of whether it can be maintained for a long time.

　A watch that I would want to wear forever without getting bored of it. This was something I decided on surprisingly quickly. I wanted something edgy, because I would eventually tire of a mediocre design, but I also quickly grew tired of a showy design. When I thought about a watch that was extremely simple, yet edgy in a way that no other company could imitate, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack® naturally came to mind.

　The jet-black dial, which even dispenses with the brand logo, is the pinnacle of simplicity. Vantablack® absorbs almost all light, creating a black hole-like presence that sucks in the wearer's infidelity just by looking at it. Because it does not reflect light itself, the changes in appearance that occur the moment light hits the components such as the hands, indexes, and crystal are emphasized, captivating the viewer.

　You will never get bored of the diverse expressions created by the shadows.

②Patek Philippe "Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370P"

　A watch is something to be worn and used to measure time, but it is also something to be enjoyed by looking at and touching. A watch that combines both a captivating appearance and a high level of tactile sensation is sure to bring joy to its owner for years to come.

　A watch that you would want to have for the rest of your life would have to have a beautiful chronograph. It would also be perfect if it had a simple bicompax movement and an elaborate dial. With that in mind, the Patek Philippe 5370P was the natural choice.

　The beauty of the Caliber CHR 29-535 PS goes without saying, with an exciting layout for the carrying arm, and it even has a split-seconds function!

　The simple bicompax dial does not emphasize its complexity, but upon closer inspection, the lustrous Grand Feu dial immediately tells you that this is no ordinary watch.

　I gaze upon such a watch every day through a magnifying glass, telling myself, "Watches are all about the feel," and wind it manually at the appointed time. Whenever I have free time, I fiddle with the chronograph, intoxicated by the feel of the push buttons. Busy days and extra time in my spare time are irrelevant. Only fulfilling days are guaranteed.

Chieko Tsuruoka's "Lifelong Wristwatch"

①Tudor "Black Bay 58 Bronze"

　Assuming an average lifespan is 80 years, I have about 40 more years to live, assuming nothing happens. What kind of watch can I use for the rest of my life? I thought of criteria like something that can be repaired if it breaks, something that can be passed down as a family heirloom, and a design that looks natural as I age. However, if I'm going to spend my whole life with it, the most important thing is to want to use it for the rest of my life. Making this feeling my top priority, I decided to pick my beloved Tudor. The first mechanical watch I ever bought was a Tudor (known as Tudor in Japan at the time).

　Of the many current Tudor models, the one I picked out as a watch I could wear for the rest of my life was the Black Bay 58 Bronze. There were other models I wanted, but the deciding factor in my choice was the bronze material, which changes color with use. I thought it would be wonderful to partner with this model and have a watch that would become "my own color" over the course of my life. However, bronze does have the downside of developing a strong patina, which means it can easily stain your wrist or shirt sleeves (although this is also a characteristic of bronze). However, this model uses an alloy material that contains aluminum in bronze, which reduces aging, but still does not completely prevent tarnishing, so you can enjoy watching it slowly change into "your own watch."

　Also, as a fan of old watches, the anodized aluminum bezel insert and the rivet bracelet reminiscent of vintage Rolex and Tudor watches are features that I will love for the rest of my life.

　If there is one concern about calling this watch a "lifetime item," it is that Tudor releases a model every year that stimulates the desire to own it, so there is a possibility that you will end up with a lot of "lifetime items," thinking, "Oh, I want to use this one for the rest of my life!" or "I can use this as a secondary watch for the rest of my life."

②IWC "Portugieser Eternal Calendar"

　The world will continue even after I'm gone. The watch I currently own will likely continue to work (hoping that it will continue to be properly maintained by another owner). A perpetual calendar is the perfect way to contemplate such a "world without me." This complicated mechanism, which does not require manual calendar adjustment as long as the watch continues to run, is thought to have been commercialized with an eye to days far beyond our own timeline. It would be fun to spend the rest of my life with this perpetual calendar in hand, thinking about the future.

　Several brands offer perpetual calendar models. This time, we've picked IWC's new 2024 Portugieser Eternal Calendar, featuring a secular calendar, as a "lifetime piece" that will accompany you for the rest of your life. A secular calendar is an upgraded version of a perpetual calendar. A typical perpetual calendar requires a calendar correction every 100 years. This is because years with two consecutive zeros at the end of the Gregorian calendar and divisible by 400 are exceptional leap years. However, a secular calendar can detect these exceptional leap years. Furthermore, this watch's Double Moon™, located at 12 o'clock, boasts an astonishing accuracy of only one day in 45 million years, earning it a Guinness World Record in June as the "most precise moon phase wristwatch."

　However, in the distant future, in a dystopian world, such a magnificent mechanism will no longer exist, and the perpetual calendar will become useless. I can only hope that the current watch market will continue for a long time to come.

Yosuke Ohashi's "Lifetime Watch"

①Omega "Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition"

　When I first saw this watch, my first impression was, "I don't know why, but it looks cool." I think the reason I thought so is because of Omega's high level of design, which combines chic elements with the utilitarian design of diver's watches. This watch even gave me the impression of being both a diver's watch and a dress watch.

　Omega's skill in unifying the entire watch with a slightly reddish color scheme is what makes it look chic. The bezel and dial are dark brown, while the indexes and scale on the bezel are painted with a beige luminous paint that leans towards orange. This exquisite color combination gives it an elegant impression. Personally, I think this is the diver's watch that best suits a suit.

　The movement, Cal. 8806, is resistant to magnetic fields of over 15,000 gauss, making it suitable for use in today's magnetically-charged society. Another plus is that it features a coaxial escapement, meaning it requires fewer overhauls.

　It's stylish, can be worn daily even in an environment filled with computers and other magnetic devices, and doesn't require frequent overhauls. If you can get your hands on one, it's the kind of watch you'll want to wear for the rest of your life.

②Citizen Campanola "Cosmosign"

　I don't want to stare at my smartphone monitor all day. As humans, we need time to sharpen our senses and experience nature. In that sense, an outdoor model for mountain climbing would be a good choice.

　But here we'll introduce a watch perfectly suited to another nature-loving hobby: stargazing. It's the Citizen Campanola Cosmosign Ref. AO4010-51L. This model features a star chart on the dial, which rotates counterclockwise and corresponds to the constellations visible in the night sky.

　There needs to be time in life to just look at the starry sky and wonder if you can see Ursa Minor at this time of year, or if the Summer Triangle is there.

　When I look at the starry sky, I think about how insignificant humans are compared to the universe. This watch might just give me the motivation to forget about my worries. In any case, this watch refreshes my mind, and it's one I'd like to keep as my lifelong companion.