Since its introduction in 2000, the J12 has been loved by men and women around the world. This time, we'd like to review the J12 Phantom black model, a classic model with an overall dark tone. A pioneer of authentic mechanical watches from a couture house, this practical luxury watch combines a sporty basic design with meticulous attention to detail to create a feminine look that's uniquely Chanel.
Text & Photographs by Naoto Watanabe
[Article published on January 3, 2024]
Automatic (Cal. 12.1). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Highly resistant black ceramic and stainless steel case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 1,419,000 yen (tax included).
The masculine yet feminine J12 style has remained unchanged for over 20 years.
The J12, Chanel's first unisex watch, was released in 2000. Its unique ceramic exterior and sophisticated finish have caused a sensation in both the fashion and watch industries, and although the case structure was significantly redesigned in 2019, the design itself has remained unchanged for over 20 years.
The first piece was designed by Jacques Helleu, who was then the artistic director of Chanel's Fragrance & Beauty and Watches & Fine Jewelry divisions.
The model name "J12" is said to be derived from either the initial "J" of Elly or the "J Class" yachting category in the Ameri's Cup. The watch's design also features design features similar to those of a diver's watch, such as a middle case molded as a single unit from the crown guard to the lugs, and a unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute indices.
Nevertheless, the impression this piece gives is unmistakably Chanel: a sporty and timeless watch, yet with a feminine touch reminiscent of the company's iconic 2.55 chain bag.
This design, which combines these opposing images, is a style unique to J12, reflecting the philosophy of the company's founder, Gabrielle Chanel, who has been proposing masculine wardrobes for women for over 100 years.
Detailing and design treatments tailored to the concept
The J12's distinctive femininity is also due in large part to its meticulous finishing and exquisite design.
Generally speaking, the more expensive a watch's exterior is, the sharper its shape tends to be, with sharper edges and uniformly curved surfaces that are close to flat and developable (curved surfaces that can be developed into a flat surface).
The ultimate example would be the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. With the exception of the chamfered octagonal bezel, its sharp design eliminates three-dimensional curves (curves that cannot be developed into a flat surface) to the maximum extent possible. Even those who are completely unfamiliar with watches can tell at a glance that it is an expensive item, but at the same time, it gives off an extremely massive and masculine impression.
In contrast, the J12's ceramic exterior has a precisely shaped base, but the corners of the case and bracelet have been rounded off and the surface has been polished to a three-dimensional curve, giving it a soft luster similar to the company's quilted leather.
If these had been finished with the sharpness of Audemars Piguet, the impression of this watch would have been completely different, and it would not have become such a sought-after watch among women.
Furthermore, the unidirectional rotating bezel, which normally gives the impression of being a practical tool, has been given half the number of notches on the outer stainless steel part of the watch compared to a typical diver's watch, and by polishing the inside of the notches as well, it has been beautifully elevated into a jewel-like detail that avoids any sense of ruggedness.
The Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel are not in the broad, powerfully curved font that Chanel originally used on perfume bottles, but rather in a delicate, gently curved sans serif font unique to this watch, successfully neutralizing the sporty impression.
Fully mirrored ceramic bracelet for a comfortable and open feel
The exterior of this model is polished to a three-dimensional curved surface, which not only gives it a luxurious appearance but also contributes to an improved wearing comfort.
This watch has edges that are much more gently curved than those of a typical sporty watch, and it feels extremely smooth against the skin.
While the ceramic exterior is scratch-resistant, it is prone to chipping if the edges are subjected to a strong impact. However, all edges on this model are rounded, including the back, so you can use it safely on a daily basis.
Although the links of the bracelet are longer than those of a typical three-link bracelet, they have a strong curve, so they fit well on the wrist.
Additionally, perhaps as a consideration to reduce the strain on the ceramic links, the play between the links has been left wide, resulting in just the right amount of torsional strength. Combined with the watch's light weight of approximately 133g when fully loaded, this provides an open and comfortable fit.
The double folding buckle with a leaf spring and no locking mechanism is thin and does not dig into the wrist, but it takes some getting used to to remove it.
The leaf spring is set to a fairly strong elasticity, so the clock body vibrates violently every time you open each side, so you need to work carefully in a calm environment.
A Kenissi movement with the unique aesthetic of Chanel
The Cal. 12.1 movement used in this watch is an automatic movement manufactured by Kenissi, a movement manufacturer in which Chanel has a stake.
The modern basic design is the same as the Cal. MT5612, including a double-supported balance cock and a free-sprung balance with a mean time screw.
However, this watch, modified by Chanel, has had the number of jewels increased from 26 to 27, and is equipped with a uniquely designed bridge that minimizes exposure of the balance wheel and gears, as well as a tungsten rotor with a circular motif.
In this model, the middle case and back cover are molded as a single piece to create a see-through back, so mechanical enthusiasts will be pleased to know that the uniquely designed movement can be viewed from the back.
In addition, all models are COSC-certified chronometers, and the review unit had an excellent daily deviation of +2 seconds when used normally.
The power reserve is also quite long at approximately 70 hours, so it never stopped working even after wearing it for a week, which mainly consisted of desk work.
What is surprising is its water resistance, which is extremely high at 200m.
This may be natural since the base design is a diver's watch, but a luxury watch that can be worn safely even in the Japanese summer, when humidity levels can reach 90%, is a rare find.
At the same time, there is no impurity in the feel of the crown when turning the hands, and there is a high-quality click feeling without any rattle when turning the unidirectional rotating bezel.
Regardless of whether there are users who actually wear these and dive, this is impressive tuning.
An authentic mechanical watch that combines luxury and practicality
The J12 has always been a design I like, and although it's a watch I've seen often, I've never owned one.
For this review, I was able to borrow the actual product for a week, and after wearing it for an extended period of time, I realized that the exterior, which initially seemed to be focused on design, actually contributes greatly to the comfortable fit.
The design and manufacturing, which combines luxury and practicality at a high level, can only be described as impressive, with a 12.6mm thick see-through back and a fully mirrored ceramic case that is water resistant to 200m.
Due to its feminine design, which is unique to unisex models, it is undoubtedly a watch that is selective about the fashion you wear, but in the case of the black model of the "J12 Phantom" introduced in this article, it has a chic color scheme, so it seems easier to match with a variety of outfits than the regular model.
For male watch enthusiasts, including myself, who make up the majority of this site's readership, stepping into a Chanel boutique may require a great deal of courage.
However, there is surely an experience waiting for you that is worth your courage.
