[Wearing Review] Orient Star's latest work, the "M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding Limited," truly embodies the "shining star" in both name and reality!

This is a hands-on review of the Orient Star "M34 F8 Skeleton Handwinding Limited." This is a skeleton watch equipped with a hand-wound movement. Orient has been creating numerous skeleton watches, and this watch is a testament to their technical and design sense.

Orient Star "M34 F8 Skeleton Handwinding Limited"

　This time, we will be reviewing the Orient Star "M34 F8 Skeleton Handwinding Limited." This is a new model scheduled for release in October 2024, and is a limited edition model with only 200 units sold in Japan. Equipped with a hand-wound movement, it features a skeleton structure that allows you to enjoy the unique structure of a mechanical watch.

　Orient's pioneering skeleton watch was the Mon Bijou, which debuted in 1991. Featuring a skeletonized movement housed in a classically designed case, the Mon Bijou was created to make the appeal of skeleton watches, which tend to be expensive, more affordable and accessible to a wider audience. The M34 F8 Skeleton Handwinding Limited, which we will review here, also maintains the stable specs that Orient Star is known for, and a friendly price tag of just under 40 yen.

　Skeleton watches are often seen as a novelty, but how did the company, which has been working on them for over 30 years, create this watch?

Three-dimensional skeleton dial

　First, let's focus on the skeleton dial, arguably its most distinctive feature. Skeleton watches generally have the center of the dial, the movement's baseplate and bridges, hollowed out to reveal the interior. This is purely my own opinion, but because they have such an impactful design, I believe that the attention to detail determines whether a watch will continue to be used without tiring of it. To put it simply, relying on the impact of the first glance is bound to feel counterintuitive. Boredom is a reaction to becoming accustomed to the same stimuli over and over again. Of course, if we think about it logically, the user's strong emotional attachment and personal preferences usually take priority over design. However, a design that brings new discoveries each time you look at it is likely to be more appealing to use over the long term.

　This watch, on the other hand, not only has the dynamic design unique to skeleton watches, but is also studded with fascinating details that go beyond just that. One of these is its three-dimensional structure. A flange and blue ring with printed minute markers are placed around the outer periphery of the dial, with indexes lined up above them. In the center, a shining main plate with countless circular graining decorations shines, and a gray plate with a power reserve indicator, small seconds, and the brand logo is fixed with screws.

　Looking at the details, the main plate is deeply chamfered with diamond cuts, clearly highlighting the outline of the skeleton. The oscillating balance wheel is located at 9 o'clock, the small seconds at 6 o'clock, and the blue silicon escape wheel behind them allow for a visual enjoyment of the movement of the mechanical movement. Furthermore, the design theme of this watch is "the light of stars shining in deep space," and the shape of the main plate supporting the balance wheel is shaped like the twin tails of a comet, while the spiral-shaped escape wheel is designed to resemble the Milky Way galaxy.

　The movement can also be viewed through the case back. In stark contrast to the finish on the dial side, the bridges are decorated with stripes and feature smooth, curved edges. However, since most of the gear train is covered by the bridges, it is not possible to see the inner workings in detail.

　The plate with the scale and logo is plated in gray to represent the pitch-black of outer space. The grooves in the white printed area are a device to reduce light reflection and improve visibility. The plate itself is sharply cut out, and no scratches were found on the screws that secure it to the base plate, suggesting that they may have been made during assembly. Even if you look closely at the scratches, there are no elements that would ruin the view.

Hands and indexes that improve usability without compromising individuality

　The straight pencil-shaped hour and minute hands have beveled polished sides and a satin-finish top, while the small seconds hand has separate polished and satin-finished sides. These are likely intended to improve legibility. In fact, the circular graining on the mainplate reflects light well, so the dial of this watch is not easy to read at all. However, a small ingenuity applied to the hands ensures that the watch meets practical specifications. In contrast, the power reserve indicator hand tends to be obscured by the brilliance of the mainplate. However, there is likely no need to frequently check the remaining mainspring, so this should not be a problem in practical use.

　The indexes at 12 o'clock are Roman type, while the others are trapezoidal. The top of the trapezoidal indexes is grooved to reduce light reflection, and the four side faces are angled to highlight the polished finish. This approach, similar to that of the hour and minute hands, gives the indexes a high degree of three-dimensionality and legibility. The blue ring located below the indexes has a granular finish, which contrasts with the polished finish and makes the indexes stand out.

　Many watches have some kind of motif in their design, but not many have a motif that is directly reminiscent of the watch's design. Even without knowing that the design theme of this watch is "starlight shining in deep space," it's not difficult to see the twinkling of stars in the circular graining on the movement's base plate, in the endless darkness that stretches from the black bezel to the flange and the blue ring surrounding the indexes. The exquisiteness of the metaphor is perhaps the greatest appeal of this watch.

Exterior design inspired by Perseus, a hero from Greek mythology

　This model belongs to the "M34" series of Orient Star's "M Collections." M34 refers to the open star cluster in the constellation Perseus in the Messier Catalogue, a catalogue of celestial objects created by French astronomer Charles Messier. Orient Star's M34 watch has a design inspired by the strength of Perseus, the hero of Greek mythology. This is best exemplified by the sharp lugs, based on straight lines. The sharp design incorporates a combination of satin and polished finishes, creating a modern impression.

　Another feature of this watch is that it is equipped with a manual winding movement, which means that the case back is thin. This not only gives it a clean look, but also lowers the center of gravity, making it more comfortable to wear.

　The stainless steel bracelet is made up of H-shaped links. The satin finish with some polishing creates a harmonious blend with the case, and the rounded corners create a smooth feel. The buckle is a three-fold type that opens and closes with a push button. Fine adjustment is not a one-touch operation, but rather requires three holes on the side and a spring bar. This model also comes with a genuine gray crocodile leather strap, which can be swapped out with a spring bar remover.

Experience the joy of a hand-wound movement

　Equipped with a manual-winding movement, this model offers the pleasure of winding the mainspring with your own hands. By turning the crown toward 12 o'clock, you can wind the watch with a subtle ticking sound. While there's no crisp response, it's far more pleasant than the buzzing sound of similar automatic movements.

　As you wind the watch while watching the dial, you can see the power reserve indicator fill up in sync with the movement of your fingers. Mechanical watches are often likened to living creatures, and the act of winding them is likened to feeding them, but in this piece you can enjoy visually the movement of the watch filling up. When it's full, it conveys its intention by sending resistance to your fingertips. In other words, there is a proper winding stop.

　The winding can be seen from the case back, where the winding gear train and clicks connected to the barrel are located on top of the bridge, allowing you to see how each gear turns as the crown is turned.

　You can adjust the time by pulling the crown one notch. Although the diameter of the crown itself is large, it is attached tightly to the case with almost no gap, so when pulling it out you need to insert your fingernail into the small gap, which can be a little difficult. Adjusting the time feels a little light. There is no noticeable wobble, so you can set the time without any problems.

Overall balanced wearing comfort

　On the wrist, the fit is better than you'd expect. It's hard to imagine a worse fit considering the thin case and low center of gravity, but the slightly thick bracelet and short lugs make it sit very comfortably on the wrist. Incidentally, the case is 39mm in diameter, while the vertical length is 46.5mm. The downward-extending lugs follow the curve of the wrist, preventing it from moving violently even when you gently shake your arm.

　Even more appealing than the comfort is the skeleton dial, which you can't help but stare at. Looking at it while wearing it gives a completely different impression than looking at it while holding it in your hand. The three-dimensional structure, sparkling perlage, and the movement of the balance and escape wheel visible underneath transport the user's attention to a distant universe. It's also fun to watch how the watch changes appearance depending on the light source, whether natural or artificial. If you remove it from your wrist and look at the case back, you can see the striped decoration, which is a little different from the dial side.

　However, it's important to understand that this fantastic dial comes at the expense of some degree of legibility. The hands tend to be obscured by the brilliance of the circular graining. However, as mentioned above, the hands are finished with both satin and polished finishes, so if you find them difficult to read, you can simply tilt your arm slightly to adjust the lighting and you'll still be able to read the time without any difficulty. While it may be inferior to a regular watch, it's still excellent as a skeleton watch.

輝ける星

　Orient Star was founded in 1951 with the goal of becoming a "shining star." Since then, Orient Star has evolved into Orient's flagship brand, creating a variety of models along the way. It's rare for a brand to offer such a rich lineup, from models with additional functions like power reserve indicators, world time, and GMT, to unique designs incorporating motifs of sports cars, guitars, turntables, cameras, and road bikes.

　This taught me that there is more than one "star" for us. In other words, the star I imagine and the star you imagine may differ, and this in itself is completely natural. The word "diversity" is used a lot these days, but Orient Star recognized this early on and has been presenting the world with the various possibilities for watches to become people's stars. This skeleton watch is no exception. It may not appeal to everyone, but that is precisely why it is a lifelike piece that meticulously reflects the design theme.