Last year, IWC's new Ingenieur watch caused quite a stir. It's no surprise that it attracted so much attention, not only because it revives Gérald Genta's design but also because it comes in the excellent packaging that is so characteristic of IWC. Let's take a look at IWC's skill in sublimating the design of the 1970s.
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
How did IWC bring past designs into the present?
IWC's new Ingenieur was announced with much fanfare in 2023. Not only did it return to Gérald Genta's design, but the movement also evolved to a 5-day automatic. Of course, the Ingenieur's signature soft-iron anti-magnetic case is also featured in this model. If that's the case, the new Ingenieur could be seen as a revival not of the 1976 Ingenieur SL, but of its successor, the thin Ingenieur (Ref. 3508). Its thin and lightweight packaging clearly evokes the Ingenieurs of the 80s through the 2000s.
However, it took a considerable amount of time to develop the new Ingenieur. The company showed a prototype of the Ingenieur to a select few at the Watches & Wonders Geneva in 22, including this author. However, the final version announced the following year was a completely different beast. Stefan Ihnen, head of R&D, later explained, "Revising the bracelet was a challenge."
The new Ingenieur inherits Genta's design while being updated for modern tastes. One such feature is the crown guard. Designer Christian Knoop explains the reason for the deliberate changes, saying, "Genta didn't like to keep the same design, just like Picasso kept changing." However, it was inevitable that the Ingenieur, which emphasizes a sporty feel, would feature a crown guard. This is a detail that was also seen on the previous IW3229, but as the chamfered edges show, the finish has been further improved.
The distinctive bezel has also evolved. While it looks the same as before, the way it is fastened has changed. Knoop explains, "On previous Ingenieur models, the holes for screwing the bezel in would sometimes be misaligned. So we completely revamped the way the bezel is fastened, fixing it with screws so that the holes fit into the correct position." The bezel has also been made thinner, perhaps in keeping with current trends. It could be said that the biggest difference between the Genta-designed SL and this model is the thickness of the bezel.
The exterior packaging has also evolved. Despite being water resistant to 10 bar (which is actually 1.25 times that level) and featuring a soft-iron anti-magnetic case, the case is only 10.7 mm thick. The overall length of the case is also 45.7 mm, which is quite short for a 40 mm diameter watch. Additionally, the first link's range of movement has been increased, allowing it to fit comfortably on even the slenderest of wrists.
The bracelet is a type that can be completely removed by pushing a pin. IWC has been using this structure since the 1990s, but this is the first time it has been used on a sporty bracelet with few links. While it is difficult to allow for play on both sides, the moderate flexibility is the same as that of conventional multi-link bracelets. In addition, the weight balance between the bracelet and the watch is appropriate, so the head does not move easily even when worn loosely. To be honest, some of the edges of the 2022 prototype were too sharp, but this has been completely resolved in the final version. If I had to say something, the buckle is narrow at 14mm compared to the 40mm diameter case, but the weight is well balanced, so it does not feel head-heavy.
When I asked CEO Christophe Grainger-Herr why they removed the fine adjustment feature from the buckle, he replied that they didn't want to disrupt the balance of the design. Admittedly, a thin, heavy buckle would have made the new Ingenieur less comfortable to wear. However, shortening each link to improve comfort is typical of IWC.
The dial design has also been revised. While the previous IW3229 featured a sports-watch-style bezel ring around the dial's periphery, this model has been graciously omitted. The reason for this is likely due to the difference in the base movement. The 30110 used in the 3229 was an improved version of the ETA2892A2 (or Sellita SW300). With a 25.6mm movement, the date window would be located inside the dial. IWC likely added the bezel ring to balance this out. In contrast, this model uses the 28.8mm movement, the 32111. It can be assumed that the bezel ring could be omitted in this model because the date display can be placed outside the dial. Also noteworthy is that the date window and index at 3 o'clock are located on the same concentric circle as the other indexes. Genta's design was extremely strict regarding the placement of the date window, and the current IWC team has faithfully followed this design.
To be honest, the price of the new Ingenieur is by no means cheap. However, the current IWC-like exterior finish, excellent wearability, and highly accurate automatic movement have greatly improved its quality as a high-quality daily watch. What's more, starting this year, it is no longer a boutique exclusive, making it even easier to obtain. For those looking for a unique, solid, practical watch, the new Ingenieur is undoubtedly an excellent choice.
The new Ingenieur was revived in 2023. It is a completely different watch from the 1976 Ingenieur SL, but the design remains similar, with the gently sloping top of the case and the date window placed in an appropriate position. The so-called "Genta hands" have also been revived. At the same time, the texture and practicality have been greatly improved. Automatic winding (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 10.7mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Each is priced at 1,776,500 yen (tax included).
