Since its founding in 1884, Breitling has made significant contributions to the evolution of the chronograph. Its timeless functional beauty has been passed down to the present day, and from the perspective of "firsts," Breitling's 140-year history is beautifully connected in a single line.
This solid gold model of the "timeless classic" Navitimer is the world's first watch to feature an aviation-grade circular slide rule. Automatic (Cal. 01). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 18KRG case (43mm diameter, 13.6mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 2,805,000 yen (tax included).
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas), Yu Mitamura
Takahiro Ohno and Yukiya Suzuki (this magazine): Interview and text
Edited & Text by Takahiro Ohno (Office Peropaw), Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
A series of history-making "firsts"
140 YEARS OF FIRSTS
Léon Breitling, who opened his workshop in 1884 at the age of 24, was passionate about developing precision timekeeping instruments specialized for sports, science, and industry from the beginning. Gaston Breitling, the second generation Breitling, who inherited his legacy, developed a wristwatch chronograph with an independent push button at the 2 o'clock position. Willy Breitling, the third generation Breitling, then moved the reset button to the 4 o'clock position and completed the prototype of the modern chronograph with two push buttons on either side of the crown.
(Right) An advertisement from the 1950s when the Navitimer, which was originally only available to AOPA members, was released to the general public.
Looking back at Breitling's history, which marks its 140th anniversary this year, many such pioneering achievements shine brightly. For example, in 1952, the Navitimer was developed by incorporating the Type 52 aviation circular slide rule, which was standard equipment in aviation, into a chronograph. This idea was well-received by pilots and made the watch a charismatic presence in the world of aviation watches. Furthermore, in the 80s, when thin quartz watches were at their peak, the Chronomat, which dared to feature an automatic movement, was so popular and became a worldwide hit with its sophisticated new style that elevated functionality to such an extent that Luigi Macaluso, who would later lead Girard-Perregaux, said, "It was Breitling's achievement to revive the mechanical movement."
(Right) Advertisement for the Superocean chronograph (Ref. 807) and three-hand (Ref. 1004) models, which were launched in 1957.
Other notable firsts over Breitling's 140 years include the Emergency, first introduced in 95, which was the first wristwatch to feature a miniaturized international aviation emergency signal transmitter, and the 2001 achievement of being the first to equip all of its watches with COSC-certified movements. These pioneering product developments and initiatives continue to live on in subsequent models. Born from a pursuit of functionality, they represent the so-called "beauty of utility" and uniqueness that has given rise to trends.
(Right) A 1964 advertisement for the Navitimer-derived Cosmonaut and Scott Carpenter's achievements.
Recently, the company has been making headlines for its industry-first efforts, such as introducing watch boxes made from upcycled plastic bottles. In terms of environmental support activities, this year the company partnered with Bertrand Piccard's Climate Impulse, which aims to fly around the world nonstop in a hydrogen-powered aircraft with zero emissions. And when it comes to gold and lab-grown diamonds, the company has set a goal of ensuring 100% traceability of its supply chain back to the source by 2025, demonstrating its tireless commitment to innovation.
(Right) A 1987 advertisement for the new Chronomat, developed in collaboration with Frecce Tricolori.
To celebrate its 140-year heritage, Breitling fans have been treated to a year of exciting events and news, including a commemorative anniversary model, a pop-up museum in Zurich, vintage watch exhibitions around the world, and a commemorative book summarizing the company's history of "firsts." And we mustn't forget: Breitling's "firsts" will continue into the future. Beyond the next milestone, the story of Breitling's passion for watchmaking, passed down from its founders, will continue to unfold.
Breitling's History of Firsts
In 1915, the company released a wristwatch chronograph in which the chronograph pushers were separated from the crown and placed independently at the 2 o'clock position. The reset function was moved to a dedicated button at the 4 o'clock position, which was patented in 1934. This established the modern chronograph style in which pushers are placed on either side of the crown.
The Premier Duograph Ref. 762, released in 1943, was a wristwatch-sized version of the rattrapante pocket watch. The Premier series, which produced a wide variety of designs throughout the 1940s, was the first successful example of using the chronograph, which had evolved for the purpose of timing, as a form of style for self-expression.
Development began in 1952 with the aim of incorporating the world's first aviation rotary slide rule, and two years later the first Navitimer Ref. 806 was delivered to members of the AOPA (Allied Pilots Association). It was not only welcomed by professional aviators around the world, but also beloved by many celebrities, including Miles Davis, Serge Gainsbourg, and F1 driver Jim Clark.
Breitling's first diver's watch, the Superocean, was born in 1957, when marine leisure activities were becoming increasingly popular. It was typical of Breitling that both the three-hand and chronograph versions were released at the same time. Both were water resistant to 200m, and the chronograph Ref. 807 was the world's first diver's watch equipped with a chronograph.
In 1962, astronaut Scott Carpenter orbited the Earth three times aboard the Aurora 7 spacecraft. The time it took him 4 hours, 56 minutes, and 5 seconds was recorded in a Cosmonaut, a Navitimer customized with a 24-hour display by Breitling at his request. This was the first Swiss-made wristwatch used in space.
The Top Time Ref. 2002 was born in 1964. In the 1960s, when simple, thin watches were in vogue, the Top Time contributed to the revival of popularity of chronographs, which tended to be expensive and thick due to their complexity. Its simple, dynamic design, without a rotating slide rule, was well-received by young people, and was worn by James Bond in the film "Thunderball."
The Ref. 2105 is equipped with the automatic chronograph Cal. 11 (Chronomatic), which was jointly developed with Heuer Leonidas, Hamilton Buren, and Dubois-Dépraz. This achievement, achieved in collaboration with rivals, was widely deployed in the Navitimer, Superocean, and standard case models.
In 1983, Frecce Tricolori listened to the opinions of pilots and, at a time when thin quartz watches were all the rage, developed a new mechanical chronograph. The following year, it was released as the Chronomat and became a huge hit in fashion-conscious Italy, before quickly spreading its popularity around the world.
Adventurers Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones completed the first non-stop balloon flight around the world in a Breitling Orbiter 3, taking 19 days, 21 hours, and 47 minutes. That same year, Breitling became the first in the watch industry to declare itself a 100% chronometer, and in 2001 achieved the remarkable feat of having all its watches COSC-certified.
Breitling, which became an official supplier to the Royal Air Force in 1936, utilized its expertise in advanced mission watches to enter the military aviation industry for the first time in 2000 with the release of the Avenger, which became the designated model for the Swiss Air Force. The photo shows the 2000 Chrono Avenger Ref. 13360.
We will try new things, but our strategy is to avoid major changes.
Georges Kern, who is now in his eighth year as CEO of Breitling since becoming CEO in 2017, was asked about the most epoch-making events in Breitling's 140-year history.
"That's a tough question. Firstly, the invention of the prototype of the basic wristwatch chronograph with independent pushers. Secondly, with the development of the Premier, he shifted his focus from the traditional tool watch as an instrument to style, adding artistic qualities. Thirdly, in terms of products, the release of the Navitimer in the 1950s and the Chronomat in the 1980s."
Born in Germany in 1965. After graduating from the University of St. Gallen, he worked at Tag Heuer and other companies before joining the Richemont Group. He learned the watch business under the late Günter Blümlein, who oversaw A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC. In 2002, he became CEO of IWC. In 17, he became responsible for Richemont Group's watchmaking, marketing, and digital divisions. In the same year, he left Richemont Group to become CEO of Breitling. He rapidly launched new strategies, shifting from traditional tool watches to informal multi-purpose watches and then to style.
"All of these events have had a major impact on Breitling's history. That's why I chose them," Kahn said, carefully considering the matter. Among them, which new models will Breitling revive and focus on in the future?
"In fact, we have already revived some historically famous models. The Premier and Top Time represent the brand's 'sports heritage' aspect, while the Navitimer and Chronomat represent its 'adventure' aspect. What we are currently focusing on is the capsule collections that we have released so far, which you may have seen at the pop-up museum currently being held in Zurich. We are thinking of reviving these in a similar way and creating new ones. In addition, we are also considering reviving some ladies' watches and increasing our lineup a little."
Since becoming CEO, Kern has evolved Breitling from a watch for specialists to an informal, multi-purpose watch, with the launch of a three-hand model of the Navitimer and the expansion of the Premier line. What strategies does he have in mind for further development?
"As we look back on the history of the brand's 140th anniversary, we can see that Breitling already has many masterpiece models as its heritage. It is important to continue with these existing models. There is no need to deliberately change our strategy. When we consider the history of watches to date, we are confident that this will work. Of course, we will also try new things, but as a strategy, this has been successful, so although it may be a boring answer, our 'strategy' is to continue doing things the same way without making major changes."
Indeed, the models selected for the 140th anniversary limited edition are the three historic masterpieces mentioned by Mr. Kahn at the beginning of this article. This too shows his unwavering "strategy."
Suitable for all purposes!
Breitling's Current Collection
Breitling watches, which combine cutting-edge technology with traditional craftsmanship, share a common thread: functional beauty. The diverse lineup blends into a variety of scenes, from the office to parties and casual everyday wear, and smartly asserts individuality.
Country
The core of the brand is the Chronomat, which was originally created as a pilot's watch but has become a multi-purpose watch that can be used in any situation due to its versatility. The Premier, which inherits the elegant design of the 1940s, and the stylish Top Time, which embodies the atmosphere of the 1960s, are also popular.
Stainless steel and 18K gold case. Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 962,500 yen (tax included).
Titanium case. Water resistant to 200m. Price: 1,633,500 yen (tax included).
18KRG case. Water resistant to 200m. Price: 319 million yen (tax included).
Ceramic case. Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 649 million yen (tax included).
Stainless steel case. Water resistant to 10 ATM. 776,600 yen (tax included).
Professional
The Emergency watch, the world's first wristwatch equipped with a distress signal transmitter, is truly a survival device for professionals. Here we feature the Aerospace, which features a Super Quartz movement in a titanium case that boasts 10 times the accuracy of regular watches, and the Endurance Pro, designed for athletes and featuring an ultra-light Breitlight® case.
Titanium case. Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 643,500 yen (tax included).
Bright Light® case. Water resistant to 10 bar. 484,000 yen (tax included).
Water
Breitling's iconic Navitimer comes in a variety of functions, sizes, and colors, including not only chronographs but also three-hand and GMT models. Other models in the lineup include the Avenger, a modern, high-performance watch with its origins in military aviation watches, and the Classic Avi, inspired by the 1950s Ref. 765 Avico-Pilot.
Stainless steel case. Water resistant to 3 ATM. 776,600 yen (tax included).
Stainless steel case. Water resistant to 3 ATM. 776,600 yen (tax included).
Stainless steel case. Water resistant to 3 ATM. 776,600 yen (tax included).
18KRG case. Water resistant to 3 ATM. 2,805,000 yen (tax included).
18KRG case. Water resistant to 10 ATM. 2,805,000 yen (tax included).
Ceramic case. 300m water resistant. 1,265,000 yen (tax included).
Sea
The two top models are the modern retro Superocean Heritage, which is based on the classic design of the original model launched in 1957, and the Superocean, which follows the simple beauty of the Superocean Slow Motion from the 1960s and 70s but has evolved into a modern watch with the latest functions and a variety of color schemes.
Stainless steel case. Water resistant to 300m. 66 yen (tax included).
Stainless steel case. 300m water resistant. 759,000 yen (tax included).
Stainless steel case. 200m water resistant. 759,000 yen (tax included).
Stainless steel case. 200m water resistant. 759,000 yen (tax included).
