This year marks the 160th anniversary of the signing of the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between Japan and Switzerland, establishing diplomatic relations between the two countries. To commemorate this, Girard-Perregaux has released the Laureato Indigo Japan Limited Edition. The dials of these two watches bear no explicit markings; only deep navy blue and indigo. Yet these are traditional Japanese colors, and more than anything, they eloquently symbolize the deep bond between Girard-Perregaux and Japan.
Text by Mitsuru Shibata
Edited by Takeshi Abe
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
The appearance of the special Laureato speaks volumes
(Left) Laureato Chronograph Indigo Japan Limited Edition
The Laureato Indigo Japan Limited Edition is available in two styles: a three-hand model and a chronograph. The theme for both models is indigo, a traditional Japanese color. The production of indigo dye extracted from indigo plants began in Japan in the 16th century, and the deep indigo was often used for samurai armor and considered a "victory color." Different indigo colors were chosen to match the dial decoration and unique character of each model: the three-hand Grand Feu enamel model and the chronograph's Clou de Paris pattern. Over 20 prototypes were made. Each model is limited to 100 pieces. (Right) Automatic movement (Cal. GP01800-1730). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 54 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 10.68mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 2,585,000 yen (tax included). (Left) Automatic movement (Cal. GP03300-0141). 63 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 46 hours. Ti case (diameter 42mm, thickness 12.1mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 2,805,000 yen (tax included).
For watch enthusiasts, Switzerland is a mecca for watchmaking, and they feel a special affinity and respect for it. The friendship and exchange with Japan that continues to this day began 160 years ago. With the arrival of Commodore Perry in 1853, Japan was finally waking up from its long period of isolation. Not to be left behind, other European powers headed for the Far East, and Switzerland was no exception. Aimé Humbert-Droz, head of the watchmakers' association, was selected as the representative of the mission, and his primary goal was to develop the Japanese market for Swiss watches. In 1864, the Treaty of Amity and Commerce was signed between Japan and Switzerland, paving the way for Swiss watches to enter the market.
Behind the scenes of this history lies another story, and the central character is Girard-Perregaux. At the time, many Swiss watch brands were looking to expand their sales channels overseas, but it was François Perregaux, a watchmaker and member of the founding family, who set his sights on Japan and took on this important task. He arrived in 1859 ahead of the delegation with 12 watches, but as Switzerland and Japan did not yet have diplomatic relations, he stayed in Singapore. The following year, he fulfilled his long-cherished dream of visiting Japan as a French citizen, and made all the necessary preparations. A few years later, diplomatic relations were established between Switzerland and Girard-Perregaux, making it the first Swiss watch brand to land in Japan.
Born in 1834, he was Marie-Perregaux's younger brother and a watchmaker. After six years in New York to develop the American market, he headed for Japan. He arrived in Japan in 1860 and worked to popularize Girard-Perregaux and Swiss watches. He died in 1877 at the young age of 43. He still rests in the Yokohama Foreigners' Cemetery, and many watch enthusiasts visit his grave every year.
As the import of Swiss watches began in earnest with the opening of the port of Yokohama, Girard-Perregaux watches in particular were well received thanks to François's ingenuity. He commissioned the watch manufacturer to tailor its specifications to suit Japanese tastes, including the inclusion of glass in the inner lid to allow the movement to be viewed, and the intricate engravings reminiscent of birds and Japanese patterns on the details.
However, the seasonal time system was the norm in Japan at the time, and differences in lifestyle meant that the spread of clocks was slow. Perhaps it was the indigo blue that soothed François's heart at such a time.
British chemist Robert William Atkinson, who visited Japan around the same time as François and inspected various areas, was fascinated by this indigo color and coined the term "Japan Blue." François must have been stunned by the indigo color, which was used in everyday items such as kimonos, hand towels, and even shop curtains and wrapping cloths, and which permeated the cityscape. Its beauty no doubt renewed his ambition to establish Swiss watchmaking culture in the Land of the Rising Sun, and inspired him with hope for the future.
This indigo color has been adopted for the Laureato Indigo Japan Limited Edition. Different hues are used for the three-hand and chronograph models to match their respective finishes, expressing their unique individuality. Indigo symbolizes Japanese culture, art, and craftsmanship, which are rooted in nature, and its deep, tranquil color conveys a noble spirit. This unique piece is inspired by and pays homage to this.
The deep blue color with the beautiful luster unique to Grand Feu enamel
Indigo is not only beautiful to look at, but yarn dyed with natural indigo dyes is strong, blocks UV rays in the summer, and retains heat in the winter. It is also said to have excellent antibacterial and disinfecting properties, as well as detoxifying and insect repellent properties. This dyeing method has supported people's lives throughout history, both in the East and the West, and in Japan it is a color that particularly symbolizes chic.
For the dial of the three-hand model of the Laureato Indigo Japan Limited Edition, the traditional Franké technique of applying grand feu enamel over guilloched engraving was chosen as a fitting decoration for the watch. Enamel is made by vitrifying a mixture of silica, red lead, potash, and soda at extremely high temperatures. Metal oxides are added to this mixture to color it black/blue/brown (iron), pink/green (chromium), and dark blue/green (cobalt). This is then crushed into a powder, mixed with distilled water, and applied to the component with a thin brush as a glaze. Enamel is usually available in three types: translucent, opalescent, and opaque, with Franké enamel being translucent.
This is then baked at a high temperature of 800°C to melt it and adhere it to the surface. It is from this high temperature that the process is called Grand Feu (meaning "big flame").
The watch is visually inspected to determine when it is time to remove it from the oven and allow it to cool. At least five firings are required to achieve the perfect luster and color, and the dial is also enameled on the back as a counter-enamel, which reduces the risk of deformation that could lead to cracks during the cooling process immediately after removing it from the oven.
However, repeated firing can cause cracks, bubbles, and color variations in the enamel, and no matter how meticulous care is taken, if a defect occurs, the process must be started over from the beginning. Even in today's technologically advanced world, skill is still required, which is one of the reasons why the production of enamel dials is difficult to quantify.
After firing, the surface is polished to bring out a smooth, even finish and a beautiful luster. This is how a single Franke enamel dial is finally completed. This beautiful dial is meticulously finished in-house, and the work of Donze Cadrans, one of Switzerland's leading enamel workshops, owned by the Sowind Group, which also owns Girard-Perregaux, is essential.
The translucent blue and green enamel lends a beautiful light effect to the sunburst guilloched pattern, adding depth to the motif. This pattern is also used on the dials of the Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition and La Esmeralda "Secret" Eternity, which were released in 2021 to celebrate the brand's 230th anniversary. The indigo color of the Japan Limited Edition further enhances its value.
The appeal of Grand Feu enamel lies in its translucent luster and color, as well as the fact that it does not fade over the years and maintains its fresh appearance from the time of completion. Its beauty and value are comparable to that of a work of art. The 160-year history of Japan and Girard-Perregaux lives on within it, and this bond will continue into the future.
The deep indigo color enhances the traditional Clos de Paris decoration.
There are many precedents for Girard-Perregaux's Japan-exclusive models. For example, the "ww.tc KANAGAWA ENAMEL," released in 2009, features Katsushika Hokusai's "Under the Great Wave off Kanagawa," from "Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji," on the dial, crafted using cloisonné (wired enamel). The 19 "Vintage 1945 Japan Blue Limited Edition Model" features Japan blue on the Roman numeral indexes and spade hands. Both are special models incorporating themes of Japanese culture and history, and their origins can be traced back to the tradition of François's original creations for the Japanese market.
The Laureato Chronograph Indigo Japan Limited Edition combines an indigo dial with a titanium case. In fact, Girard-Perregaux and titanium have one thing in common.
Titanium was discovered in England in 1791 by William Gregor, a priest and mineralogist. That same year, a watchmaking workshop was founded in faraway La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Later, in 1856, the brand was named after the watchmaker Constant Girard and his wife Marie Perregaux. This was none other than Girard-Perregaux.
Titanium is named after the Titans of Greek mythology, the strong and powerful gods who preceded the Olympian gods, and this new material lives up to its name with its hardness, lightness, and corrosion resistance. While titanium has long been used as a watch material, it has been rediscovered in recent years due to improvements in quality and finish. The Indigo Japan Limited Edition uses Grade 5 titanium, a material used in aerospace, medical, and automotive industries.
Approximately 35% lighter than standard stainless steel models, the watch is twice as hard as steel, making it highly scratch-resistant and abrasion-resistant. It's also resistant to sweat and chemicals, and is nickel- and chromium-free for hypoallergenic properties. Its low thermal conductivity reduces the coldness of metal, providing a comfortable fit. Combined with its lightweight design, it's comfortable to wear all day.
Despite its practicality, the high hardness of the material makes molding and finishing more difficult and time-consuming, making it a valuable material suitable for luxury watches.
In keeping with the Laureato tradition, the dial is decorated with a Clous de Paris pattern, and the counters and flange are unified in black, creating a delicate contrast with the brightened indigo blue.
Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the Laureato. Its unique style, combining a tonneau-shaped case with a circular base and octagonal bezel, and featuring an integrated bracelet, has only grown in its prestige and presence as a brand icon over the past half century.
The encounter between this highly popular collection, which is set against the backdrop of the luxury sports trend, and the traditional Japanese color of indigo symbolizes the strong bond between Japan and Girard-Perregaux. The two companies will continue to mark the passage of time with unchanging mutual respect.
