On October 17, 2024, Patek Philippe announced a new collection, "Cubitus." This is the first time the company has expanded its collection since the "Twenty-4" in 1999. As the name suggests, this is a massive collection featuring a square design. To put it simply, this model looks much better on the wrist than in photographs.
Photographs & Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 18, 2024]
Patek Philippe's first new collection in 25 years features a masculine square case!
Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe, explained, "85% of watches on the market are round. But I had wanted a square watch for many years. When I became president, I thought I could make that a reality. That's the strength of a family business (laughs)." He also said the name Cubitus came from the fact that it could be understood anywhere in the world.
The first three models announced were the Ref. 5822P, which features an instantaneous movement with date, day of the week, and moon phase; the Ref. 5821/1AR, which has three hands and a combination case; and the Ref. 5821/1A, which is in stainless steel.
The Ref. 5822P features an instantaneous calendar despite its thin case. The case is made of platinum and weighs 85g. However, thanks to the wide case back and thin, low center of gravity case, it is extremely comfortable to wear. It also has excellent visibility, making it a typical modern Patek Philippe model. Automatic (Cal. 240 PS CI J LU). 52 jewels. 21,600 vph. Maximum power reserve of 48 hours. Platinum case (diameter 10 to 4 o'clock 45mm, width 9 to 3 o'clock including crown 44.9mm, lug-to-lug length 44.4mm, thickness 9.6mm). Price: 13,990,000 yen (tax included).
This is the two-tone model, Ref. 5821/1AR. As the photo shows, the narrow bezel effectively reduces the flashiness. The familiar blue sunburst dial deliberately lacks the gradient finish. Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 SC). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Maximum power reserve of 45 hours. Stainless steel x 18KRG case (45mm diameter from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, 44.5mm width from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock including crown, 44.9mm lug-to-lug length, 8.3mm thickness). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 9.7 million yen (tax included).
The basic stainless steel model, Ref. 5821/1A. Equipped with the masterpiece 26-330, it offers an extremely comfortable fit. The larger size and narrower bezel result in excellent legibility. Automatic winding (Cal. 26-330 SC). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Maximum power reserve of 45 hours. Stainless steel case (45mm diameter from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, 44.5mm width from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock including crown, 44.9mm lug-to-lug length, 8.3mm thickness). Water resistant to 3 bar. 6,530,000 yen (tax included).
The Cubitus follows in the footsteps of the Nautilus, but is clearly different.
As Stern explained, "This model is a cousin of the Aquanaut and Nautilus," and the design of the Cubitus follows the Nautilus lineage. If you were to say that it's a slightly modified Nautilus, you would understand the design, but when you put it on your wrist, it gives a clearly different impression from the Nautilus.
One obvious difference is the larger case, measuring 45mm in diameter (10 o'clock to 4 o'clock). The width (9 o'clock to 3 o'clock, including the crown) is also not small, at 44.9mm (Ref. 5822P) and 44.5mm (Ref. 5821/1AR and 1A). However, the lug-to-lug length is shorter, at 44.4mm (Ref. 5822P) and 44.9mm (Ref. 5821/1AR and 1A), making it easier to handle. Incidentally, the overall length of just over 44mm is even shorter than the IWC Ingenieur, which is 40mm in diameter. As a result, the square shape of this model is even more pronounced. While this may not be apparent in photographs, when worn on the wrist, the details inherited from the Nautilus are even more apparent. The square case is eye-catching.
The case structure of this model is basically the same as that of the Nautilus. However, the case back and middle case have been changed from separate parts to being molded as one piece, and the bezel cover is fixed to the side of the case, similar to the Nautilus Ref. 5712 and Ref. 5811. The reason for this is unknown, but it is likely to make the case thinner. In fact, Mr. Stern apparently requested the development team to "thin the case." In addition, by raising part of the case back and narrowing the case sides, the watch appears much thinner than it actually is. Not only has the case actually been made thinner, but an optical illusion has also been incorporated.
The reason why this model doesn't feel like it's 45mm is thanks to its thin case, short overall length, and the bracelet inherited from the Nautilus. From what I can tell, the bracelet is the same as the Nautilus. The same goes for the buckle with an extension function. The outstanding wearing comfort of the Nautilus has been inherited by the Cubitus. Let's take a closer look at the three models.
The Ref. 5822, which realized instantaneous advancement of all calendar functions
The highlight of the Cubitus is the Ref. 5822P, which features a large date, moon phase, and day of the week display. While the movement appears to be a Nautilus Ref. 5712 with a large date added, it is actually a completely different watch. Not only are all of these displays instantaneous (changing in just 18 milliseconds!), but they also incorporate robust safety features. "(The Cal. 240 PS CI J LU) will not break even if you move the hands backwards, and there is no problem switching the displays at any time," explains Philippe Barra, head of development.
The size of the dial opening was achieved
A key feature of the Cubitus is the large dial opening, made possible by its large case and thin bezel. The diameter from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock is 45mm, compared to the 40.5mm of the Nautilus (Ref. 5711), making it theoretically easier to expand the dial display. "The development of the Cubitus took four years, compared to six years for the Cal. 240 PS CI J LU. The timing of their releases coincided, allowing us to incorporate it into the Cubitus," explains Barra. However, incorporating a large date display would have been difficult, even in the case of the Aquanaut, let alone the Nautilus. It would have been possible, but it would have disrupted the design balance. It makes sense that the Cubitus, with its large dial opening, was chosen to house this new movement.
Thierry Stern explains, "When I spoke with my father, he always told me to make the date display larger." As a result, the date display on the Cal. 240 PS CI J LU is extremely large, "twice the surface area of a typical date display," according to Balla. Additionally, all of the displays on this movement are instantaneous.
The pursuit of thinness
"All calendars are changed in 18 milliseconds, so the levers are operated with a force of 2 kilograms. However, because the Cal. 240 PS on which it is based has a low torque, it takes 22 hours to charge the spring that powers the lever," said Mr. Bara. Achieving instantaneous movement with the "weak" Cal. 240 is a remarkable achievement, but honestly, there was probably no need to make the moon phase and date movements instantaneous as well.
Mr. Balla adds, "At first we created a movement without instantaneous feed, but it ended up being 5.2mm thick. Thierry Stern then asked us to make it even thinner." As a result, all the displays are now instantaneous feed with fewer intermediate wheels, which actually improved practicality. This movement, which has a large lever for instantaneous feed, is not modular but integrated. Considering this, the movement size of 31mm in diameter and 4.76mm thick is quite thin.
In addition to its instantaneous movement, this movement has two other major features. The first is that the tens and ones digits of the large date are located on almost the same layer. This is the same display as the company's inline perpetual, and in fact, the same mechanism as this movement was also used in the Cal. 240 PS CI J LU. Aligning the layers reduces the thickness but increases the surface area. It would have been difficult to install this in any movement other than the Cubitus, which has a large opening.
Excessive safety features
Another point is the excessive safety features. Generally speaking, large dates are vulnerable to shocks. However, all displays are fitted with regulation springs to prevent them from moving easily. The reason all displays need a force of 2 kg to change is not only to instantly advance the date, day of the week, and moon disc, but also to release the blockage caused by the strong regulation springs. However, considering Patek Philippe's design philosophy in recent years, there should be a moderate amount of play.
Another major feature is that the calendar does not break even when the crown is turned back. A similar mechanism can be found in ordinary calendar watches, but the key to this movement is that the part that slips when turned back moves vertically (lifts up!) rather than horizontally. The reason it does not move sideways is probably to save space and to avoid compromising the accuracy of the display after the crown has been turned back.
The company has filed six patents for the development of the Cal. 240 PS CI J LU. This movement is certainly worthy of a new collection. Honestly, as a movement enthusiast, I think the Cubitus is worth buying just for this movement.
The Ref. 5821 makes a unique impression on the wrist
In contrast to the Ref. 5822P, which features an instantaneous advance calendar, the three-hand Ref. 5811/1A and 1AR are more suitable for everyday wear. As the photo shows, the details follow the traditional Nautilus. However, as mentioned above, the impression on the wrist is completely different. There are three main reasons for this.
One is the dial, which has been redesigned to a single color. As you can see from the photo, the gradient has been eliminated, which is emphasized by the thin bezel. Another is that the side lugs have been cut off in a straight line. In addition, by making the horizontal and vertical lengths (from lug to lug) almost the same, the square impression is emphasized when worn on the wrist. "I didn't like the initial design, but after many revisions I settled on this," said Thierry Stern, and the square shape is emphasized when worn on the wrist.
And the other is a discreet bracelet.
The undulating bracelet, typical of the Nautilus, is a major advantage of the Ref. 5822P. It also tapers sharply toward the buckle, just like the Nautilus Ref. 5711 and Ref. 5712. However, as a result of the larger head, the bracelet's presence is relatively reduced on the Ref. 5821/1A and 1AR. Normally, making the head larger, as in this model, would significantly worsen the wearing comfort. However, by thinning the case, increasing the contact area between the case back and the wrist, and adding an extension to the buckle, the wearing comfort is extremely comfortable. The ease of handling, which doesn't make you feel its size, is a major advantage of the Ref. 5822P, Ref. 5821/1A, and 1AR.
The finish of the movement and exterior is as impeccable as ever, and the details are as excellent as ever. What impressed me was the craftsmanship around the crown. The absolute lack of play when operating the crown is due to the extremely thick tube connecting the case and crown. Also, by making it thicker, the threads are less likely to be damaged even with repeated screwing. With a two-piece case, a screw-down crown, and a thick tube, it would not be difficult to make the watch water resistant to 10 bar. However, Patek Philippe has deliberately limited it to 3 bar, claiming that this is not a so-called "luxury sports watch."
The next generation flagship collection and a new foundation for complications
"Honestly, a new collection is a risk, but we don't want to follow trends. We wanted to show that, as leaders, we can create something unique," said Thierry Stern. The Cubitus is more challenging than it looks. While its details are influenced by the Nautilus, the impression it gives on the wrist is completely different. The 45mm size is ambitious, but the frame itself is even more iconic, and it's incredibly comfortable to wear. Additionally, the large opening on the dial will likely lead to a wide variety of variations in the collection. In terms of its potential as a base for complications, it's perhaps greater than any other existing collection.
Gisbert Brunner once commented on Cubitus: "This watch is far better in person than in photographs. It's a watch that you can really tell when you have it on your wrist." I couldn't agree more. You'll definitely understand the true value of this watch when you touch it. Fortunately, this collection will be available in stores soon, so those who are interested may be able to see one. By the way, all the models are attractive, but if I had to choose, it would be the Ref. 5822P equipped with the Cal. 240 PS CI J LU. This thin and practical model clearly shows the direction Cubitus is heading in the future.
