If you're buying your first mechanical watch, Tudor is the answer! We recommend the Black Bay and Ranger models.

We'd like to introduce Tudor as a recommended brand for those buying their first mechanical watch. Their watches, which combine the robustness and unique design of Rolex, are easy to use and come at an affordable price point. This time, we'll be looking at five models that are particularly versatile.

If you're looking for your first "slightly better watch," choose Tudor!

　With the widespread use of smartphones and other electronic devices, we can now know the exact time anytime, anywhere. Perhaps because of this modern age, wristwatches, which were once in doubt as to their existence, have been rediscovered as items that bring joy to the act of telling time, or as a way to express oneself, and they continue to keep time on the wrists of many people today.

　In this climate, there are probably many people who are thinking about buying a "good mechanical watch" for the first time. All modern watches are well-made, and you'll likely be satisfied with any major brand you choose. However, among them, I would particularly recommend Tudor watches.

　Tudor is a Swiss brand founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. The name was first registered as a trademark in 1926. Eventually, the brand made its presence known with high-quality watches that utilized Rolex technology, and produced a series of masterpieces that were highly popular among explorers and professional divers, such as the Tudor Oyster Prince in 1952 and the Tudor Oyster Submariner in 1954.

　For a long time, Tudor had been using general-purpose movements made by ébauche makers, but in 2015 they released the Pelagos and North Flag, which are equipped with manufacture calibers from Kenissi, a movement manufacturer founded by the company. This has made them well-known as a practical watch brand that boasts a high level of perfection while remaining within an affordable price range.

　What all Tudor collections have in common is their high robustness and timeless design. Mechanical watches, in particular, are vulnerable to water, shock, and magnetism, and require careful handling. All Tudor watches feature robust cases that are highly water-resistant, and models equipped with manufacture calibers are also resistant to magnetism. Furthermore, their understated designs are suitable for both work and play, and can be worn for many years to come. As your first watch and as a watch to accompany you into the future, Tudor is an unmistakable choice.

　That said, Tudor also has many models. Here, we will introduce five models from the company's extensive lineup that are particularly suitable as a first watch. If you find a model that catches your eye, we encourage you to visit a store and see and touch the actual watch.

Ranger Ref. M79950-0001

　The Oyster Prince was the watch that Tudor provided to the Royal Navy's North Greenland Expedition, which took place from 1952 to 1954. This watch's inherent robustness and high precision led to the expedition's success, and Tudor's technological prowess was widely recognized. In honour of this achievement, the Tudor Ranger collection was launched in 2022.

　Tudor registered the "Ranger" trademark in 1929. Since then, the name has been used for several models. It wasn't until the 1960s that a model featuring Arabic numerals and arrow-shaped hands, the motif of the modern Ranger, was introduced.

　The design of this watch is extremely simple. The stainless steel case with a smooth bezel is completely satin-finished, and the matte black dial features a combination of Arabic numerals and bar indexes. The movement is the Cal. MT5402, which is COSC-certified chronometer and equipped with a silicon balance spring.

　The Ranger, with its stoic design focused solely on time display and its high-spec movement, is a versatile model perfect for a first luxury watch. Even after owning multiple watches, it's sure to become a valuable all-around watch.

"Tudor Royal" Ref. M28600-0005

　The Tudor Royal collection features a dressy design and is available in a wide variety of cases, including 28mm, 34mm, 38mm, and 41mm. In addition to stainless steel cases, there are also models with 18K yellow gold bezels and mother-of-pearl dials set with diamonds.

　The model we're introducing this time is a 41mm case with a refreshing blue dial. The bezel is notched, allowing you to enjoy the way the polished parts sparkle in the light as you move your wrist. It's also water resistant to 100m, making it an attractive everyday watch that can be used even in bad weather.

　The sunray-finished dial features elegant Roman numerals and a railway minute circle, while pencil-shaped hour and minute hands ensure high legibility. A unique feature of the 41mm case model is the full day of the week display between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock.

　The movement is the Cal. T603, which is based on a general-purpose machine. While the specs themselves aren't outstanding, its reliability has been proven by many brands who have adopted it. This also keeps the price down, making it a recommended first watch.

"1926" Reference M91650-0002

　The "1926" collection, named after the year the Tudor brand was founded, is a dressy collection with a wide lineup, similar to the Tudor Royal. Paying homage to the brand's early designs, the collection is peppered with classic elements, such as an embossed waffle-pattern dial and a combination of Arabic numerals and wedge-shaped indexes.

　This model combines a 41mm case with a black dial, and the indices and hands are unified in silver, giving it a bold impression. The case is 9.3mm thick, making it small enough to fit easily under a shirt cuff. It's also worth noting that the screw-down crown makes it water resistant to 100m.

　The seven-link stainless steel bracelet has a satin and polished finish. Each link is finely detailed, providing a supple feel when worn.

　The movement is Cal. T601. It is based on a general-purpose movement that is considered the industry standard for three-hand automatic mechanical movements, so even those who are unfamiliar with mechanical watches can use it with confidence.

　In addition, a 28mm case model is also available, so you can enjoy matching watches by purchasing two different sizes. The timeless design is suitable for years of use.

Black Bay 41, Ref. M79680-0002

　The Black Bay collection is the face of Tudor. Originally conceived as a diver's watch, the Black Bay also features elegant models with smooth bezels, such as this one. While there are many variations in case size and dial, the model featured here features a 41mm stainless steel case with a blue dial.

　The basic elements of the dial are the same as those of the Black Bay, which has a rotating bezel. The indexes, which combine triangles, bars, and dots, help you instantly determine the direction of the watch. The hour hand uses Tudor's signature snowflake shape, creating a simple yet iconic design.

　The bracelet is a five-link type with three polished central rows and two satin-finished sides. The buckle is equipped with a unique "T-fit" fine-tuning mechanism, allowing you to easily adjust the wrist circumference to suit your physical condition or the weather.

　The movement is the Cal. MT5601, manufactured by Kenissi, a subsidiary movement manufacturer, and boasts high specifications such as high precision, COSC-certified chronometer accuracy, and a long power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

　The dress-like design, including a polished smooth bezel, sunray-finish dial, and five-link bracelet, is complemented by diver-style indexes and hands. The harmony created by the coexistence of opposing elements gives this watch its unique character.

Black Bay 58, Ref. M79030N-0003

　The Black Bay 58 collection was inspired by the 1958 diver's watch "Ref. 7924," commonly known as the "Big Crown." The collection continues to expand its lineup, with a new model equipped with a GMT function being added in 2024, but the model introduced here is the black dial model that was released in 2018 as the first Black Bay 58.

　While the design itself is not significantly different from other Black Bay models, the case size is slightly smaller, at 39mm in diameter and 11.9mm thick. This size, which combines the robustness of a diver's watch with ease of handling and is water resistant to 200m, is the secret to the Black Bay 58's popularity.

　The gold color is used for the indexes, the edging of the hands, the minute markers, and the scale of the bezel. Many Black Bay models have a vintage feel, but this model stands out among them with its coloring that emphasizes the vintage feel.

　The strap is made of fabric that matches the color of the dial. A French decorative cord company has used Jacquard loom technology to create a high-quality fabric strap that is both strong and flexible.

　The movement is the same manufacture caliber, Cal. MT5402, made by Kenissi as the Ranger.