Longines is well known among watch enthusiasts as a manufacturer of models that "stab" in the heart. I had intended to feature the "Longines Master Collection," which I am reviewing while wearing it, as a watch for such watch lovers. However, as I used it, I felt the need to convey that this is a "good, easy-to-understand watch" that will appeal to casual users who just "want a watch," regardless of whether they are interested in watches or not.
Photographs & Text by Chieko Tsuruoka(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 5, 2024]
The Longines Master Collection follows the design of the 190th anniversary model
Longines was founded in 1832. In 1867, the company established its own factory in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, where the brand name comes from the fact that the area was then called "Les Longines" (the long, narrow fields). Since its founding, the factory has been featuring a "winged hourglass" on the dials of the watches it produces. Longines still produces watches in the same location today, and continues to use this iconic logo.
Today, Longines leverages the advanced watchmaking technology it has cultivated over its long history to sell high-quality watches at reasonable prices. The brand's "attitude toward watchmaking" likely plays a major role in its popularity among watch enthusiasts. The 190th anniversary model of the Longines Master Collection, released in 2022, is a watch that can be said to have further increased Longines' popularity. The classic dial without a date display is adorned with Breguet numeral indexes, and combined with blued steel leaf hands, it is an elegant dress watch. Moreover, the list price is in the 30 yen range.
The popularity of this design is evident in the fact that a new model with a small seconds hand was added the following year, and in 2024, even more variations will be available, one of which is the reference L2.357.5.70.2.
Automatic movement (Cal. L888.5). 21 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 34mm, thickness 9.2mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 419,100 yen.
Previous watches in the Longines Master Collection, which had the design of the 190th anniversary model, had case diameters of 40mm or 38.5mm. However, this model has a smaller diameter of 34mm. The stainless steel case is adorned with an 18K rose gold cap, and the indexes and hands are also rose gold to match this combination of materials. Additionally, the alligator strap is a soft shade of brown, giving it a more elegant impression than previous models.
Although it is not clearly distinguished, this piece is positioned as part of a ladies' collection due to its 34mm case size and design, so I would like to review it from a woman's perspective, rather than that of a watch enthusiast.
Luxury women's watches for under ¥50
As mentioned above, the new Longines Master Collection has a design that follows the 190th anniversary model that was released in 2022. In addition to being the first time that 18K rose gold has been used in this design, it also features the elaborate details of the 190th anniversary model, making it a luxurious piece.
When I first saw the dial of the 190th anniversary model, I was amazed. As mentioned above, the sandblasted dial features Breguet numerals, and the engraving is so exquisite that it looks as if it was hand-engraved by a master craftsman.
It's hard to convey this in photos taken with my smartphone, so let me explain. The indices are deeply engraved and feature elegantly shaped Breguet numerals, a feature that is generally difficult to achieve with lasers or other methods. For this reason, most watches with this kind of detail are in the high price range. However, Longines is offering this watch for just 419,100 yen. Considering the price, it was not made by hand, but using a micro-machining machine. Using cutting-edge technology to create details reminiscent of the painstaking craftsmanship of high-end watchmaking requires watchmaking skills and know-how that are different from those achieved by hand, as well as a passion for user-friendliness. It is this attitude of Longines that resonates with watch enthusiasts, and it is this brand's products that are so appealing to them.
Of course, this watch would also be a good choice for those buying their first watch or those who just want a good one. Since there isn't much competition in the ¥50 price range for luxury women's watches, it's particularly suitable for those with a budget in that range. Recently, due to rising raw material costs and the impact of exchange rates, it's common for standard luxury women's watches from overseas brands to cost over ¥100 million. This may seem a bit high for those looking for a "good watch." While there are women's watches in a more basic price range on the watch market, it's hard to say that these casual styles fully meet the needs of those looking for a luxury watch within a ¥50 budget. This watch fills that "gap" while also incorporating elements of luxury, making it a rare luxury watch for women.
A watch you'll want to wear every day
This model not only had advantages in terms of appearance and positioning in the watch market, but was also excellent in terms of practicality (although it can be said that many of the current models in the lineups of various manufacturers are practical).
The small case, 34mm in diameter and 9.2mm thick, fits comfortably on the wrist and feels good against the skin. Incidentally, even if Longines watches have a large diameter, they are short in overall length and, depending on the model, are thin. Even though my wrist is 14.7cm, I find the 190th anniversary model, with a 40mm diameter, very comfortable to wear.
The waterproof rating is 3 atmospheres, which is not very reliable when doing water work or in sudden downpours, but as long as you use it carefully on a daily basis, you probably won't find it inconvenient.
Visibility was also good, and the hands and indexes were easy to see even under strong light sources. Because it is a dressy style, it does not use luminous paint.
The buckle is a D-buckle, which holds the wrist securely. Because it is a new leather strap, it appears to be slightly floating on the wrist in the photo, but it will become more comfortable with continued use. The leather used is matte alligator. It's interesting how leather straps develop a beautiful texture over time, and this well-worn leather matches the classic feel of this watch well. The collection also includes a metal bracelet version, but women who purchase a model with a leather strap should also purchase a leather care kit.
Cal. L888.5 visible through the transparent case back
Another feature that sets this watch apart from most other luxury watches for women is that it is equipped with an automatic movement, which can be seen through the case back. While many luxury watches for women are quartz-powered due to the ease of slim and small cases, this model uses the highly reliable Cal. L888.5 movement, which is also found in other watches such as the Longines Master Collection and Longines Legend Diver.
The Cal. L888 is an evolved version of the ETA2892A2, a movement that has been used in various mechanical watches for many years and is responsible for their practicality. By reducing the vibration frequency, the power reserve (the duration of the mainspring) is extended, and it is equipped with a silicon balance spring and a free-sprung balance. While smaller cases for women tend to have shorter power reserves than those for men, this model has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Furthermore, the silicon balance spring makes it resistant to magnetism, making it a reliable ally for everyday use.
The crown is not small, but I found it a little difficult to pull out. However, the mainspring winds up well during use, and the power reserve is about 72 hours, so if you wear the watch regularly, you probably won't need to use the crown very often.
A luxury ladies' watch that offers great value for money
We reviewed the new Longines Master Collection, which features the design and intricate details of the 190th anniversary model, as well as a 34mm case with an 18K rose gold cap.
When I first picked up this watch, I thought, "Here comes another new product that will delight watch enthusiasts." However, as I reviewed it, I changed my mind and realized that it is a watch that will greatly appeal to those who are not so knowledgeable about watches, and that, in particular, its size, design, and positioning in the watch market, it is one that women should pick up. I recommend taking a look at the actual watch in a shop and trying it on your wrist.
