Revisiting Edox, the pioneer of waterproof watches

Edox, which enjoys passionate support from fashionistas who lead the way in style, has a brand concept of "THE WATER CHAMPION." Looking back at the brand's great history as it celebrates its 140th anniversary, we can see that it has made a significant contribution to the watch industry as a pioneer of waterproof watches. In order to properly understand Edox, which combines outstanding specifications with sophisticated design and has also thoroughly pursued cost, we will delve into its appeal and essence.

140 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history

　From the 1950s to the 60s, the watch industry was in a fierce battle to develop waterproof watches. Blancpain developed the Fifty Fathoms and Rolex released the Submariner in 1953. Both models pioneered the new genre of diver's watches, and were both water resistant to around 100m. In 57, Omega's Seamaster 300 and Breitling's Superocean were released, and as diving became more of a leisure activity, they became a widespread part of people's lifestyles. Edox stood out among the leading group in this waterproof race.

Sliding the orange lever, which is said to be the last color visible during deep dives, toward 12 o'clock will reveal the word "LOCK" and lock the ceramic bezel. Sliding it toward 6 o'clock will restore the regular unidirectional rotating bezel.

The diameter is the same as before at 45mm, and the exterior is 16mm thick, making it very impressive!

　Founded in Bienne, Switzerland in 1884, Edox became famous for the aesthetically pleasing pocket watches created by its founder, and in the 1920s, the company began focusing on wristwatches. The development of waterproof mechanisms, which began in 52, bore fruit in the form of a unique waterproof watch in 55. That same year, the company opened a modern factory at the forefront of the Swiss watch industry, and its momentum showed no signs of slowing down.

　However, because Rolex held many patents related to waterproof cases, including screw-down crowns, each brand was forced to take their own approach in the race to develop waterproof watches. However, Edox, growing rapidly, must have had ample financial resources to invest. Their engineers poured their efforts and passion into the project, and in 61 they finally patented the groundbreaking "Double O-Ring" technology, which achieved 200m water resistance without a screw-down crown. By placing two high-quality gaskets made of rubber and nylon between the crown and the case tube, they achieved a waterproof seal in this area. That same year, they released the "Delphin," the first watch to feature this patented technology, waterproof to 200m. In 65, they developed the "Hydro-Sub," waterproof to 500m. The fact that Rolex released the Sea-Dweller, waterproof to 610m, in 67, and that the technology spread to many Swiss watch brands after the double O-ring patent expired, demonstrates the superiority of Edox's waterproofing technology at the time. Edox was undoubtedly a pioneer in diver's watches.

Equipped with a helium escape valve at 10 o'clock, the durable silicone-blended rubber strap features angled lugs that are set downward to fit snugly on the wrist.

Edox pursues high professional specifications, including 500m water resistance, while also valuing the enjoyment of everyday use with a see-through back.

　Looking at the mechanical diagram of the Twinlock crown, patented by Rolex in 1953, we see that two separate gaskets are located on the crown side and the tube side. In contrast, the double O-ring design places two gaskets in close contact with the crown and tube. This "effectively doubles the water resistance, especially when used underwater," says Edox's Swiss headquarters. Influenced by the quartz revolution, Edox was a subsidiary of ASUAG, now the Swatch Group, from the 1970s to 1983. "Unfortunately, almost all archives were lost during the ASUAG era, and no historical documents remain," they confess. Nevertheless, "Edox still uses the basic double O-ring structure. From the beginning, the watch's specifications allowed for winding and setting the time at 100m/10 atmospheres, but as a responsible manufacturer, we do not recommend using it underwater (laughs)."

　He continued, "The key technical features of the current models, which achieve great depths of water resistance such as 500m and 1000m, are the screw-down crown and push buttons, as well as the reinforced pressure resistance of the sapphire crystal, case back, and gaskets. When we previously tested a typical case back with a water resistance testing machine, some of the stainless steel parts were stressed at 1000m of water pressure. Naturally, Edox could not accept this level of performance, so we took thorough reinforcement measures."

　In fact, the thickness of the sapphire crystal and gaskets differ between the current 300m and 1000m water-resistant models. To industrially guarantee this level of water resistance, extremely strict quality control is required, including the durability of each part, as well as the precision of the workmanship and assembly.

　Of course, Edox's challenges continue to this day. This new model, the fifth generation of the flagship Chrono Offshore 1 collection, features a see-through case back and is water resistant to 500m. The locking mechanism that prevents the bezel from accidentally rotating is not just a gimmick, but a feature designed to enhance the safety of professional divers. Its solid operation, meticulous craftsmanship, and unique appearance from any angle are common to all current Edox models. It is a truly unique watch that combines the tradition and innovation of 140 years of watchmaking with the sophisticated aesthetic sense that Edox has acquired today.

Edox History

1884

Christian Ruefli-Fleury, a skilled watchmaker, founded a watch workshop in Bienne. He named it "Edox," which means "time" in ancient Greek, and in 1900 came up with the symbolic hourglass mark, which is still used today.

1955

In the 1920s, the company shifted its focus from pocket watches to wristwatches, and expanded its business along with the development of the Swiss watch industry after World War II. By 1955, it had built a huge factory that was said to be the most modern in Switzerland at the time, and had become a major company employing 500 engineers.

1961

He invented the "Double O-Ring" double gasket mechanism, which improves water resistance without the need to screw in the crown, and obtained a patent for it in 1961. In the same year, Edox released its first waterproof watch, the Delphine, equipped with this technology. Its water resistance reached 200m.

1965

Edox, widely recognized as a pioneer of waterproof watches thanks to the success of the "Double O-Ring," announced the "Hydro-Sub," which was waterproof to 500 meters and further evolved the mechanism. This technology, which achieved high water resistance and shock absorption, had a major impact on the watch industry.

2008

The Class One made a stunning debut in 2006 when the company became the official timekeeper for the Class-1 Powerboat Racing World Championship. Two years later, the Class One was released in a limited edition of 500 pieces worldwide, boasting astonishing specifications of 1500m water resistance and COSC chronometer certification.

THE WATER CHAMPION
EDOX QUALITY

　There are several brands in the Swiss watch industry that sell themselves on professional-grade specs. The rugged functional beauty is certainly appealing. Meanwhile, Edox has been able to establish a unique position in the Swiss watch industry not only because of its high specs, but also because it has a large number of watch enthusiasts who appreciate its luxurious design. For example, why doesn't Edox aim to obtain ISO diver's certification despite its focus on water resistance?

"We have previously attempted to create watches that meet ISO diver certification standards. However, we felt that some of these requirements would compromise Edox's distinctive style, and ultimately increase costs, which would have a significant impact on the price. We aim to respect these standards as much as possible, but we have decided that maintaining Edox's unique style and approach is more important than simply meeting each requirement in order to obtain certification."

　The new Chrono Offshore 1 Bezel Lock Chronograph Automatic is a professional-grade diver's chronograph co-developed at the request of the Ananta Expedition II polar exploration project. However, its 45mm diameter remains consistent with the previous model, as it was developed with everyday wear in mind. The see-through back is also a key consideration, prioritizing the owner's everyday viewing pleasure. The rubber strap, which is attached downward to match the sharp angle of the lugs, has a rounded shape that conforms to the wrist for enhanced comfort. The color of the bezel lock mechanism, which is highly visible underwater, makes it an exquisite accent for everyday wear. These features all reflect Edox's positioning as a professional watch, yet beloved by city divers. Furthermore, its price of just ¥600,000, with an automatic helium escape valve for saturation diving, offers excellent value for money, even if it doesn't aim for ISO standards.

　The dial is available in a fresh blue gradation or a bold black dial. Two types of dials are also available for the gray PVD case. If you prefer a more understated and stylish look, the Neptunian Grande Reserve Date Automatic is a good choice. The classic three-hand diver's design exudes stability and elevates your wrist, whether on or off the job. The 42mm diameter fits neatly under your cuff, and the long power reserve of approximately 68 hours is also reassuring.

　In any case, the passion and pride that has been built on the sincere approach to watchmaking as a pioneer of waterproof watches has been passed down to the present day. And the true value of the comfortable fit and sophisticated design is apparent in everyday use, sure to transform ordinary everyday moments into exciting and special times.