Blancpain is a leading Swiss luxury watch brand with a long history. While the company produces dress watches and the Métiers d'Art collection, crafted by artisans, it also has a history of developing and manufacturing military watches. Taking current models that carry on the DNA of that era as examples, we will focus on military watches, another face of Blancpain.
A camouflage green model has been added to the Air Command lineup. It comes in two diameters: 42.5mm and 36.2mm, 0.5mm larger than the original. Only Blancpain, with its Blancpain Manufacture, a subsidiary of the former Frédéric Piguet, can house a flyback chronograph in such a small case. (Left) Automatic movement (Cal. F388B). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Titanium case (42.5mm diameter, 13.77mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide. Price: 3,245,000 yen (tax included). (Right) Automatic movement (Cal. F188B). 35 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Titanium case (36.2mm diameter, 11.5mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 100 bottles worldwide. Price: 3,047,000 yen (tax included).
Text & Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Military-spec DNA
There is no doubt that the essence of the Blancpain brand is rooted in "Haute Horlogerie." The "Villeret" collection, named after the city where the brand was founded, is synonymous with luxury watches, and the "Métiers d'Art" collection, crafted by selected artisans at the Le Brassus farmhouse, fully demonstrates Blancpain's technology and tradition.
However, what is truly fascinating about the company is its flexibility, which has allowed it to produce many masterpieces in the completely different genre of military watches, while also producing traditional luxury watches. Examples of this include the Fifty Fathoms diver's watch, adopted by navies around the world, and the Air Command, a prototype pilot's watch developed for the U.S. Air Force. These have been reissued in later years and are now staples in the collection. Blancpain's other face, along with its military-spec DNA, has been passed down to the present day.
Despite their origins, the current Fifty Fathoms and Air Command models, as you'd expect from a modern Blancpain, are worthy of the name. Take the Air Command, for example. This limited edition model with a new camouflage green dial is exceptionally detailed, despite its strong military character. The dial printing is a symbolic example. The Air Command features a tachymeter transferred onto the dial, and it's rare to see such fine, precise markings and such a thick layer of ink. The 36.2mm model in particular has narrower spacing between the scales, emphasizing the precision of the design. The printing quality is undoubtedly top-notch.
Of course, while it has a high-end quality, the Air Command also has the pride of a military watch. The case is finished in a satin tone, emphasizing its tool-like feel. In addition, the small seconds hand that would normally be located at 6 o'clock has been deliberately removed, maintaining the original bicompax layout. Naturally, the chronograph is equipped with a flyback function based on military specifications.
The clever arrangement is also impressive. Because the motif is a watch from the 1950s, one might assume that the 36.2mm model is closest to the original case size. However, in fact, the 42.5mm model is closer to the original size. Blancpain's strength lies in its long history of sincerely working on reproduction models, allowing it to create watches that are even more "authentic" than the original.
Exterior evolution that transcends the realm of divers
The Fifty Fathoms series is known for its unusually high exterior quality, which is unusual for a diver's watch. This is not only because the Fifty Fathoms is an icon of the brand, but also because the exterior quality of a diver's watch is directly linked to its specifications. The latest Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, with its ceramic exterior, is the culmination of Blancpain's diver's watch style.
This new model uses ceramic for the case and bracelet. The exterior is manufactured by Comadur, also part of the Swatch Group. This company, which excels in the manufacturing and processing of ceramics, has utilized Blancpain's know-how and produced the watch to the quality standards of the group's top brand, resulting in a quality that exceeds that of a diver's watch. Another distinctive feature is the logo engraved on the case back, which is fixed in the correct position. Automatic winding (Cal. 1315). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 43.6mm, thickness 13.83mm). Water resistant to 300m. Price: 3,168,000 yen (tax included).
As mentioned above, Blancpain watches, even those with military origins, are manufactured to the highest standards of luxury watchmaking, and this is especially evident in the Fifty Fathoms series.
Developing a superior diver's watch is equivalent to developing a superior exterior. Naturally, achieving high water resistance requires precise construction of the interlocking parts, and there are also appropriate gaskets for different applications. In reality, there are not many brands that possess the necessary know-how for crafting such diver's watches while also excelling in luxury watchmaking. Blancpain has brought together this insight to unveil the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, featuring a black ceramic case and bracelet.
Its impressiveness is evident in every aspect, from the meticulous satin finish on the case, to the sharp corners where the faces intersect, to the tightness of the bracelet and lug tubes. However, the most noteworthy feature is the ceramic bracelet. When bracelets are made from ceramic, which is generally fragile, large amounts of play are left between the links to prevent damage caused by contact between the links. However, this model is designed so that each link's range of movement is limited and fixed, preventing them from coming into contact with each other. This allows for an appropriate amount of clearance between the links, resulting in a firm fit that sets it apart from conventional ceramic bracelets.
The new Fifty Fathoms achieves the same exterior quality that is only possible with a metal case, even with ceramic, a material that is difficult to process. This model truly transcends the realm of existing divers' watches.
