Even the critical watch editorial team highly praised the "TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph" for its excellent packaging.

In this series, the editorial staff of Chronos Japan gives their impressions of popular models and discusses them. This time, we're wearing the Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Ref. CBS2216.BA0041. Despite its retro look, it's a masterpiece packed with modern touches.

A modern take on the late 1960s Panda model

Hosoda　This time, we're looking at the Carrera Panda model. To commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera's birth in 2023, a new "glass box" crystal was announced, and this model is a different color. This is the recommended model announced at Watches & Wonders Geneva in 2024. The main point of this article is, without a doubt, the design.

Hirota　What I thought was clever was that although it has three counters, the small seconds are the same color as the dial, making it look like a second panda.

Tsuruoka　It's got a Monaco vibe to it.

(I.e.　It has a proper two-eyed panda design, and only the tips of the register hands, including the chronograph second hand, and the tips of the minute markers are red, so it's clear and easy to understand that when using the chronograph, you just need to look at the red parts.

Hirota　I think this panda-like combination was around 1970.

Tsuruoka　According to the documents, the inspiration for this watch came from the Ref. 7753SN from the late 1960s.

Hirota　Thank you!

(I.e.　The model at that time also had a red chronograph second hand, but the other hands were black, so this model has been improved in terms of both design and visibility.

You can really see how good it is when you look at it from an angle.

Hosoda　In terms of visibility, I imagine that the appearance of this "glass box" windshield changes depending on the light it catches, but what was it like actually wearing it?

Hirota　There was no awkwardness at all.

Hosoda　Maybe it's because the box rises rather slowly.

Hirota　Yes, I think that point is relevant.

(I.e.　Also, the tachymeter display is on the outer periphery, while the hour and minute displays are arranged in the inner cone-shaped area, making both easy to read.

Hosoda　That's right. You can see it clearly even in this side shot. The index is bent to fit the endpapers, and it shows the attention to detail that's rare in this price range.

(I.e.　Hirota has always said that "watches should be viewed from an angle," and this design looks good even from an angle.

Hirota　It's well thought out. Also, the quality of the dial has clearly improved. Old Heuer watches had issues with the indexes being dull and so on. Also, the font used is basically nostalgic, giving it an exquisite retro feel.

Hosoda　It's impressive how the "glass box" and dial design are in perfect harmony.

(I.e.　It has a retro feel, but also has a modern twist and design, so it was fun to wear. Every time I look at it, I feel good, and I think it gives me a great sense of satisfaction.

Hirota　Also, please check the close-up photo, but what I thought was really nice was the tip of the chronograph second hand. The red part has been cut off by one step and color has been applied.

(I.e.　It's true. The tip of the chronograph second hand is lowered by one step. If the paint becomes thick due to surface tension, it doesn't look very pretty.

Hirota　This kind of consideration was not present in the old Heuer.

Improved fit while retaining the Carrera look

Hirota　In terms of fit, the short overall length is surprisingly good.

Tsuruoka　Even though my wrist is 14.7cm around, I was able to wear it without it sticking out.

(I.e.　The overall length isn't long, but the design makes the lugs appear longer.

Hirota　I think the raised bezel and the narrow bow tube create a visual effect.

Hosoda　The shortened bow tube makes the lugs appear relatively long. I thought that if the lugs were shorter, it would lose its Carrera feel, but it's a beautifully designed design.

(I.e.　It's true that the old Carrera had pointed lugs (laughs). The new model also has long lugs, but they're actually a bit shorter for a more modern look, so it doesn't feel bad to wear. What's more, it doesn't have a completely different design, and it still looks like a Carrera.

Tsuruoka　It's a Rolex-esque approach. Rolex used to have long lugs, but now they've cut them off, so it feels similar to that.

The in-house movement Cal. TH20-00 exudes a sense of maturity

Hosoda　Also, starting with this model, the movement changed from Caliber Heuer 02 to Caliber TH20-00, which now has dual winding. What did you think about that? For example, the sound of spinning.

Hirota　I remember that it wound very well without any spinning and was quite accurate.

(I.e.　I measured the accuracy of wearing it, and it was +5 seconds in T24.

Hirota　Not bad. Also, most of the main parts of the TH20-00 are treated with Epiram, so they are easy to keep oiled and the maintenance intervals are theoretically extended.

Tsuruoka　Was there a lot of spinning noise during the Heuer 02 era?

Hosoda　Because it was only wound on one side.

(I.e.　The TH20-00 was finally completed by Mr. Cazapi (Carol Cazapi, Tag Heuer Movement Director), right?

Hirota　Yes.

(I.e.　When the Heuer 02 was released, it still had some roughness to it...it felt like it was just released for the time being, but with the TH20-00 it feels like it has been properly maintained.

Hosoda　Heuer has two in-house calibers, the 02 and the 01. Was the 02 designed entirely in-house? And was the 01 based on Seiko?

(I.e.　Yes. It was a 6S series Cal. 1887 with a swing pinion.

Hosoda　That's right.

(I.e.　In the meantime, the Cal. CH-80 was the basis for the 02.

Hirota　Yes, there was. It's disappeared now.

(I.e.　Then came 02.

Hosoda　In a sense, the TH20-00 is the culmination of Heuer's in-house movements, and is a movement that has been thoroughly matured.

(I.e.　Matured is probably the best word because it takes time.

The bracelet also performed well, staying under 100 million yen

Hirota　If I had to point out one area that could be improved, it would be the bracelet. It's thin compared to the volume of the watch, and I personally would have preferred it to be screwed in place. However, the overall balance is not bad.

Hosoda　This head would be fine.

Hirota　It's a little thin, but like a classic sports watch, it's cleverly paired with a wide, almost straight bracelet to disperse the weight of the head.

(I.e.　As you can see from the photo, the connection to the case is well balanced.

Hosoda　The other thing is the buckle. People will either love it or hate it, but the end result is that it's thinner, so it's good.

Hirota　Also, Heuer has consistently kept the buckle plate short. As far as I know, Heuer was the first to shorten the bracelet buckle plate. This means it fits even on relatively slim wrists, and I think they've done a great job of that.

Hosoda　Hirota-san said the same thing when I asked him to give his impressions of the Monaco in 2017, and Heuer had already shortened the clasp at that point. I believe it was a model released around 2015, so if that's the case, Heuer has been using short clasps for about 10 years now.

Hirota　Heuer was quick to rethink the buckle, and as a result, the watch has a nice contrast. This includes how they spent their money. The movement, box sapphire crystal, and dial in the head are probably all expensive. The bracelet balances that out. And that's why it's priced at under 100 million yen.

(I.e.　It's 935,000 yen including tax. If it were to cost under 1 million yen with an in-house movement and this exterior, it would be totally acceptable. Of course, it would be even better if the bracelet was better, but that would put it over 1 million yen. It's well-balanced as it is now.

Hosoda　Nowadays, when you think of a chronograph that costs 100 million yen, the Norqain Flyback Chrono is in that price range, so I think it's a really competitive watch.

The overall level of perfection has received unanimous praise!

Hirota　The case diameter is 39mm, but the overall length is short, so I think even those who are hesitant to try it will want to give it a try. Isn't it great, Heuer?

Hosoda　We've had a lot of praise for this watch from everyone who's worn it, and while we're usually pretty critical of Heuer, this model has been extremely well-received.

Hirota　Kazapi said something like, "I thought about the total package," and I think the watch turned out just like that.

(I.e.　The addition of Kazapi is a big deal. This time, Heuer was highly praised!