As a look back at 2024, we are republishing on webChronos the special feature page from the July issue (Vol. 113) of Watches & Wonders, a new product trade fair that was covered on-site by the editorial team of Chronos Japan. In this feature on new products, the magazine deliberately called for a "revolution in exteriors." This is because the dials, in particular, showed unprecedented quality and quantity. However, there were also some interesting attempts at the movements themselves. These were basic movements that featured unprecedented complex mechanisms and individuality.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited & Text by Chronos Japan Edition (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
In 2024, keep an eye out for diversifying new movements!
The exterior of the watch was more prominent than the movement itself in 2024. However, upon closer inspection, there were quite a few ambitious movements. The ones that stood out in particular were non-specialty watch brands such as Jacob & Co., Hermès, and Chanel.
This movement was born from Jacob Arabo's request to "make it spin faster!" The axis supporting the giant minute disc and the tourbillon, minute and hour displays rotates once every 60 seconds. This is made possible by the company's own development of a 1/6th-second remontoire and a lightweight disc made of polycarbonate. This masterpiece was not possible with existing manufacturers. Manual winding (Cal. JCAM56). 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18KRG case (43mm diameter, 18mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 99 pieces worldwide.
Perhaps due to the economic slowdown, watch manufacturers have been hesitant to make any new products, but they have unveiled unprecedentedly complicated watches. Jacob & Co.'s "Astronomia Regulator" is equipped with the Caliber JCAM56, in which the minute disc and the time display below the dial rotate once every 60 seconds. This is perhaps the ultimate in complicated watches, with a giant rotating body.
This masterpiece adds an automaton to Chanel's first in-house movement, the Cal. 1. A gentle press of the button at 8:30 causes Mademoiselle Chanel and the torso to move left and right. Mademoiselle and the torso are molded by LIGA for precision. Crafted from a lightweight yet durable nickel alloy, they are crafted with a box sapphire crystal to house the five-layered, three-dimensional dial. Manual winding (Cal. 6). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Approximately 72-hour power reserve. Highly resistant black ceramic case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide.
Meanwhile, Chanel announced the Calibre 6, which added an on-demand automaton. With the press of a button, Mademoiselle Chanel and her torso would move in a comical way. It was typical of Chanel to offer such a large-scale mechanism for fans.
This is a hand-wound movement created for the new "Trick" collection. Its 28.4mm diameter and 3.15mm thickness are also appropriate. The bridge and baseplate are made of 18KRG and feature a unique Côtes de Fleurier pattern. While it has an aesthetically pleasing design, it is likely a modified version of an existing automatic movement. Its weight makes it a movement worthy of a high-end watch, but it's a shame it doesn't have a winding stop.
Parmigiani Fleurier has created a new movement for the new "Trick" collection. Its structure is clearly a reworked automatic movement, but the use of gold for the plate and bridges emphasizes its exclusivity. In terms of exclusivity, the "Torch" monopusher chronograph model from Cartier Privé and Grand Seiko's hand-wound movement, Cal. 9SA4, are also similar. Its clear individuality is something never before seen.
Here's the big surprise of the year. Who would have thought that Panerai's first in-house movement, the P.2002 series, would be making a comeback? This is the automatic Cal. P.2003 with a power reserve of approximately 10 days. It features specifications that are in no way inferior to the latest movements, such as an independent hour hand correction, a horizontal power reserve display, and a free-sprung balance.
Finally, I would like to mention Panerai's Caliber P.2003. This is not even a semi-new movement, but a mature one, but its structure and specifications are comparable to the latest movements. It is no surprise that Panerai has brought it back to the forefront.
