The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2024, a trade fair for new watches in the watch industry. This article, which was featured in the magazine as a "revolution in watch exteriors," is being republished on webChronos. This time, we will explore the potential of Cartier's "first-class manufacture" through its 2024 releases.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited & Text by Chronos Japan Edition (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Cartier in 2024 extends its lead with the perfection of its exterior
In recent years, watch manufacturers have been working hard to improve their exteriors. Among them, Cartier, which manufactures its own exteriors, is showing overwhelming strength. Even basic models now have smoother case surfaces, and the technique of applying lacquer to the case has become more sophisticated. Cartier Privé's "Tortue" is attracting attention. However, when viewed as a product, it is the smash hit "Santos de Cartier" that boasts the highest level of perfection.
Cartier's "First Class Manufacture"
Cartier is revamping all of its operations under the slogan "First Class Manufacture." According to insiders, the defective rate has fallen by one-third over the past decade, and a review of its maintenance system has meant that essentially all movements are repairable. The reason for the production of new clock movements is apparently to repair mechanical clocks that could not be repaired in the past. The announcement of the long-hidden mystery mechanism "Mass Mystérieuse" in 2022 is likely due to the strengthening of its production system. This year, Cartier launched "Cartier Magician," which apparently means casting a spell on time.
"Tortue" released by "Collection Privé"
This new chronograph replaces the previous THA movement with the in-house Cal. 1928 MC.
The reason for creating a new movement was to make the case thinner and to match the tonneau shape. Its symmetrical design and easy-to-operate buttons have made it a movement that strikes a chord with watch enthusiasts. The only regret is the lack of an etachron-style regulator. Manual winding (Cal. 1928MC). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 44 hours. 18K yellow gold case (43.7mm x 34.8mm, 10.2mm thick). Not waterproof. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide.
Cartier's most important new release is the "Tortue," featuring the masterpiece Cal. 430 MC in an extremely thin platinum case. Its design is reminiscent of the Tortue from the CPCP era, but as the photo shows, the in-house case is exceptionally well-polished. To prevent the indices from standing out too much, they've been given silver-colored stickers instead. This reduces jumping of the hands when setting the time, and the movement's anti-magnetic properties have also been improved. While this is a flawless masterpiece, it will likely be difficult to obtain. Manual-winding (Cal. 430 MC). 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Platinum case (41.4mm x 32.9mm, 7.2mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide.
Among the eye-catching new releases for 2024 are the two Tortue watches added to the Collection Privée. The two-hand model is equipped with the hand-wound masterpiece Caliber 430MC. The other is a monopusher chronograph powered by the newly designed Caliber 1928MC. The latter was particularly surprising. Even with the cooperation of the Cercle d'Horloger, Cartier has long refrained from developing new movements, so I never expected them to create such an aesthetically pleasing hand-wound chronograph. Furthermore, unlike the Tortue from the CPCP era, the size is closer to the original. Incidentally, the hand-wound Caliber 430MC also boasts improved anti-magnetic properties and reduced skipping, a long-standing weakness.
Also pay attention to the movement
The 2022 model is made from different materials. The unprecedented mechanism in which the movement functions as the rotor remains the same as before. However, the indexes are slightly thinner and the chamfers are now gold. These detailed revisions are typical of Cartier. Simply put, it's a masterpiece. Automatic (Cal. 9801MC). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 43.5mm, thickness 12.65mm).
The movement that is noteworthy is the "Mass Mysteryuse." This model, in which the entire movement acts as a rotor, winding the mainspring while also driving the escapement and moving the hands, was released in 2022. The 2024 model will be a different color, but it was unexpected that such a complex movement would be re-released just two years later. Of course, as is typical of the company's current style, it is highly refined.
A playful model
The reason for the "Rewind" is that the day hand of the masterpiece Cal. 430 MC has been modified to reverse the movement. This simple modification does not increase the thickness of the movement. It is unfortunate that the limited number is so small. Manual winding (Cal. 230 MC). 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Pt case (43.5mm x 31.5mm, 7.3mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide.
The Santos-Dumont Rewind is a watch that exudes Cartier's playful spirit. At first glance, it appears that the dial has simply been changed to burgundy, but the hour and minute hands are completely reversed. The base movement is the Cal. 230MC, an improved version of the Cal. 430MC. This is a new attempt to reduce hand jumps.
Wide variety
Although it didn't attract much attention, the Tank Américaine with its platinum case caught my eye for its distinctive Cartier aesthetic. The dial, with its Art Deco-style emphasis on straight lines, features a two-tone color scheme, a style also seen in the 1930s. However, the color is a modern salmon, and the combination of fine grain and a roughened base cleverly achieves both uniqueness and legibility. The movement is the Caliber 1899 MC, based on Piaget's Caliber 500P. Automatic (Caliber 1899 MC). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 38 hours. Platinum case (44.4mm x 24.4mm, 8.6mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Estimated price: 3,735,600 yen. Scheduled for release in December.
However, what's worth looking out for in 2024 are the exterior variations. The Tank Américaine, which was revived in 2023, now features a two-tone dial this year. While the company has long favored silver, in recent years it has focused on dial color. The two-tone Art Deco-style dial, which would never have been used 10 years ago, is a sign of Cartier's maturity. My personal "killer" is the LM size of the Panthère de Cartier. As the Santos has moved towards a masculine style, the Panthère has become more feminine. The new LM model features a screw-set bracelet and excellent weight balance between the case and bracelet.
The Panthère, a huge hit, has been revived in the nostalgic LM size. However, the case and bracelet, made in-house in La Chaux-de-Fonds, have a unique mirror finish never before seen. Also, by eliminating the second hand and calendar, the clearance between the dial and crystal has been reduced. Personally, I find this a very desirable watch. Quartz movement. Stainless steel x 18K yellow gold case (42mm long, 31mm wide, 6.71mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM.
The Santos de Cartier, now a huge hit, has pushed its gold model to the forefront this year. This is likely due to the popularity of gold and two-tone models worldwide. The familiar Easylink bracelet has the same texture as the gold model. Furthermore, the polishing of the cases, which are manufactured in-house, is quite good for all models. Despite the wide variety of variations, Cartier has not shown any signs of wear on its new models. This underlying strength is truly astonishing.
It features a sub-hour hand at 6 o'clock that makes one rotation every 12 hours. Despite being a dual time watch, the case is thin. The excellent exterior is typical of Santos. However, it's a shame that it doesn't have a function to independently adjust the hour hand at this price range. With this mechanism, it would have been an impeccable travel watch. Automatic winding (based on Sellita SW330). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (47.5mm x 40.2mm, 10.01mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar.
This is a skeletonized Santos de Cartier made from a different material. The bracelet is crafted with Cartier's signature style, with just the right amount of play from side to side and a good weight balance with the head. Starting with this model, the indexes and hands are given a stronger luminous finish. Perhaps to emphasize its masculinity. Manual winding (Cal. 9612MC). 20 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. 18K yellow gold case (47.5mm x 39.8mm, 9.08mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar.
Cartier, a watchmaker with a penchant for dials, added a brown and gray gradient dial to the Santos in 2024. The gray and gold are plated and then lacquered. A spare alligator strap is included. Automatic movement (Cal. 1847MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18K yellow gold case (47.5mm x 39.8mm, 9.38mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. One-off production run.
This is a combination model with a gray gradient dial. The dial is so smooth that it doesn't look like a gradient, as the base is plated, the outer edge is lacquered, and then a thick layer of clear lacquer is applied. It is impressive how the thick dial is housed in a thin case. Automatic movement (Cal. 1847MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18K yellow gold and stainless steel case (47.5mm long x 39.8mm wide, 9.38mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar.
This is another limited edition Santos model commemorating Cartier's 50th anniversary in Japan. Like the one on the right, the dial has a heavily textured gray finish. The indices are embossed on top of that and then coated with lacquer. Cartier always strives for a glossy finish, but this Japan-exclusive model thoroughly pursues a matte texture. The minute indices are applied to the crystal rather than the dial. Even the gold model has a striated bezel. Automatic movement (Cal. 1847 MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. 18K yellow gold case (47.5mm x 39.8mm, 9.38mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 50 pieces in Japan.
This model, celebrating Cartier's 50th anniversary in Japan, features a monochrome design. The dial, including the indices, has been given a grained finish, and the minute counter has been redesigned to be printed from the back of the crystal. The satin-finished bezel gives it a more solid impression. Automatic movement (Cal. 1904CH MC). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (43.3mm diameter, 12.4mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 220 pieces in Japan.
This watch features a khaki dial and case. The indexes are also unusually Arabic numerals. Embedding lacquer into the case is now a Cartier specialty. Manual winding (Cal. 430MC). 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Pt case (43.5mm x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide.
This model features blue lacquer. Orders for the stainless steel model have been discontinued, but the 18K gold model is still being produced. This is because gold has a better lacquer yield. Manual winding (Cal. 430 MC). 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve: approximately 38 hours. 18KPG case (43.5mm x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Estimated price: 2,455,200 yen. Scheduled for release in September.
Interview: Cartier's grammar is essential form and a sense of balance
Born in France in 1958. After earning a degree from the Paris Graduate School of Management, he worked at Ogilvy & Mather before joining Cartier in 84 as Director of Advertising. After serving as Marketing and Communications Director in Italy, he returned to Paris and served as Director of various departments. Since 2003, he has been in charge of Cartier's creative style as Image, Style & Heritage Director.
Cartier has been revisiting its masterpieces in recent years, and Pierre Lenero, Director of Image, Style & Heritage, has been behind this. But what exactly does this job entail?
"My main mission is to ensure that the Cartier style is passed down. So when a new model is released or a model change is made, I look at the design. I also analyze how the style was born and how it has evolved, so I can connect heritage with contemporary stories."
So, what kind of "grammar" has he discovered in Cartier's style after 20 years of working in this field?
"I'm glad you said grammar, because I see the Cartier style as a language. A language has vocabulary and grammar, and grammar is something that lasts. Cartier's grammar is not pure, but rather essential form, and a sense of balance that plays with colors and materials. Grammar also comes with principles: beauty and curiosity about the user, because a Cartier watch is something to be used." So how did his insights connect to this year's new products?
"A good example would be the new 'Reflections de Cartier.' This is a completely new piece, but the bracelet with two heads was in our archives. And the inspiration for it was Sudan in Africa. It's the Cartier way to bring in things from different times and different cultures." Another thing he mentioned was transcending.
"Reflection was an idea that showed the watch as a different cross section of the bracelet. This is something new. I also defined the powerful design of Louis Cartier as one that can have a wide variety of variations. The exterior of this model is made up of small parts, so you can play around with different colors and materials. That is also the Cartier style, and my mission is to keep on creating."
On the other hand, Cartier Privé's "Tortue" has almost the same shape as before. Why? "The distinctive feature of the Tortue is that it has two round brackets. The "Tank" has parallel straight lines. The volume of the Tortue is different from the others; if you make it longer, it becomes a tonneau. And if you make the case bigger, it becomes an ellipse." I see, that makes sense. So, what is the most impressive new model for 2024?
"Personally, it's the Santos-Dumont. The lacquer bezel is elegant and there's freedom in the colors. I would go so far as to say that there's a freedom there that men can have towards elegance." Cartier surpasses other brands in terms of design. It's only with someone like him behind the scenes that they can maintain their tradition and innovation.
