The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2024, the watch industry's trade fair for new releases. This article, which was featured in the magazine as a "Revolution in Exteriors," is now republished on webChronos. This time, we're looking at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced the "Les Cabinotiers The Berkeley Grand Complication," a watch that breaks the record for ultra-complex watches, while also showing remarkable exterior evolution with new models in its existing collections.
Interview and text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Vacheron Constantin 2024
Vacheron Constantin broke the record for ultra-complex watches with the launch of Les Cabinotiers The Berkeley Grand Complication in April 2024. This timepiece, which incorporates a Chinese perpetual calendar, previously thought impossible to replicate, and is equipped with 63 functions in the vein of the Reference 57260, is a historic masterpiece. The Overseas' green dial takes dialmaking to the next level of complexity and sophistication.
A new record for supercomplication and further refinements in the exterior design
This new addition to the Collection Excellence Platinum is making its long-awaited debut. The complex combination of a manual-winding tourbillon and a monopusher chronograph is beautifully complemented by the solid texture of the platinum dial. Manual-winding (Cal. 3200). 39 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Pt case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 11.7mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
The winner of the highest award at this year's Watches & Wonders Geneva was undoubtedly Vacheron Constantin. After all, they displayed at their booth "Les Cabinotiers The Berkeley Grand Complication," a masterpiece of a grand complication that surpasses the famous "Ref. 57260." The 63 movement installed in it is currently "the most complicated watch in the world." The company has monopolized the first and second places in the development of ultra-complex mechanisms in modern times. For more details, please see "Vacheron Constantin's "World's Most Complicated Watch" Updated for the First Time in Nine Years"The realization of a Chinese perpetual calendar alone is a remarkable achievement in watchmaking history. The addition of the names of the customers of the Cabinotier (the company's bespoke workshop), which had been kept secret until now, to the model names makes you smile, as it shows a strong resemblance to classic Packard and Henry Graves watches.
Turning our attention to the new additions to existing collections, we see remarkable evolution in the exterior, particularly the dial expression. While the Vacheron Constantin maison places the utmost importance on traditional methods, it has also experimented with many new techniques. The green dial used on the Overseas this year is a good example. Christian Selmoni, who oversees product development, acknowledges that "green is not a traditional color," but he sought a finish that was on par with, or even better than, blue. Because it is fundamentally an Overseas, the method of creating a galvanic base, then spraying and polishing translucent lacquer remains the same, but after searching for a green that is more representative of the maison, they settled on the current slightly grayish hue. (Suzuki Hiroyuki)
The basic process for the green dial is the same as for the blue, but the chronograph, with its circularly decorated subdial, is more expressive. The interchangeable mechanism, which was revamped last year, is also easy to use. Automatic winding (Cal. 5200). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 52 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 12.67mm). Water resistant to 15 bar. Price: 11,792,000 yen (tax included).
While green was introduced in the "Traditional" collection last year, the new dial color for the Overseas is a different color and craft. In pursuit of a sophisticated green that matches the 18KPG case, the result is a slightly dull grayish hue. Automatic movement (Cal. 5110 DT). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 41mm, thickness 12mm). Water resistant to 15 bar. Price: 11,264,000 yen (tax included).
The all-titanium exterior is a new addition to the Overseas collection. This is the first time it has been used in the standard collection, excluding limited edition models. Titanium is also used for the interchangeable folding clasp. The dial is the iconic "Overseas blue". Automatic winding (Cal. 2160). 30 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Ti case (diameter 42.5 mm, thickness 10.39 mm). Price on request.
The Patrimony collection celebrates its 20th anniversary since its launch in 2004. Paying homage to its origins in the 1950s, the collection now features a new antique silver-tone dial. The strap also comes in a new olive green color. Automatic movement (Cal. 2460R31L). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18K white gold case (42.5mm diameter, 9.7mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 7,348,000 yen (tax included).
A 39mm two-hand model that embodies the original minimalism of Patrimony. The slightly slimmer case (from 40mm to 39mm) is paired with a domed dial with a sunburst finish. The strap color is a new azure blue. Manual winding (Cal. 1440). 19 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 39mm, thickness 7.72mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 374 million yen (tax included).
The essence of "twist" is to push the boundaries of modernity while maintaining a foothold in classics and tradition.
This year, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the masterpiece "Les Cabinotiers The Berkeley Grand Complication," a complicated watch that far surpasses our imagination, but in recent years, they have been known for their diverse design approaches. They have always kept a certain distance from obvious new materials and coating technologies, and while they appear to be technically cautious, their concepts are bold. Each collection has a slightly different approach, but what is the core of the company's design? Of course, the person to answer this question is Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni.
Born in Le Sentier, Switzerland in 1959, he joined Vacheron Constantin as sales manager in 90, and from 96 he served as head of the manufacturing department, leading the in-house movement development project at VCVJ, the company that had restructured from HDG after the company's acquisition. In 2001, he became the person in charge of giving the go-ahead for final prototypes and unique pieces, and in 10 he was appointed artistic director. He has held his current position since 17.
"We believe there are four elements to our designs: classic, elegant, refined, and occasionally adding a twist (playfulness). These are the basics. We maintain the tradition of classic design and handcrafting, while adding a modern essence to them."
However, in recent years, the Masterline collection has also begun incorporating titanium cases and NAC coatings, which are by no means traditional materials or techniques.
"We use NAC coating as the final touch to the design. For example, the main focus of our Traditional open-face models (Tourbillon Retrograde Date and Complete Calendar) is to express the modernity of the skeletonization through hand-finishing, and the NAC coating is merely the final touch. Do you remember the 2019 Traditional Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar? That model had traditional finishing on the case and movement. However, the Twin Beat technology (which allows you to choose between two different frequencies) and treatments incorporated into it are modern. The tension created by the relationship between the two is what is most important."
How far should modernization go? Drawing the line is an extremely difficult task.
"We are trying to match tradition with the modern era. We are still exploring the limits of this. However, these limits will become the style of the Maison. There is no need to follow trends. What is important to us is how it will look in a few years' time."
In recent years, following NAC grey, it seems that you have also been actively adopting green.
"Green is an interesting colour, but if we're going to use it, it has to be the best green possible, to rival the iconic blue of the Overseas. This year we developed a new green specifically for the gold case of the Overseas, which ultimately turned out to be a shade closer to grey. It's a different recipe to the greens we've traditionally used."
The essence of the "twist" is something that Sermoni has been talking about a lot in recent years. It is precisely because they are firmly rooted in the tradition of luxury watches that they are able to bring out the twist that pushes the boundaries.
