These are the stylish watches! 10 recommended models selected by the editorial team of "Chronos Japan"

Members of the editorial team at Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, select recommended models based on a set theme. This time, the theme is "Stylish Watches." The members are Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, and editors Yuto Hosoda, Chieko Tsuruoka, and Yosuke Ohashi.

Stylish watches recommended by the Chronos Japan editorial team

　In the "Editor's Recommendations" series, the editorial staff of the watch magazine Chronos Japan each select two watches they recommend based on a theme. This time, they chose the highly subjective theme of "good taste," which is likely to produce as many different models as there are watch enthusiasts.

　What does the Chronos editorial team, who regularly cover watches and continue to study them on a daily basis, think constitutes a "good-looking watch"? The members who selected the list were Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, and editorial staff members Yuto Hosoda, Chieko Tsuruoka, and Yosuke Ohashi.

Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota recommends "Stylish Watches"

　The "stylish watches" chosen by watch professor Masamasa Hirota from an otaku perspective are the Audemars Piguet Remaster 02 Automatic and the Excelsior Park EP 884-SI.

Audemars Piguet "Remaster 02 Automatic"

　I thought it was odd that Hirota, who has no sense of fashion, would ask me about watches with good taste, but it's my job, so I have no choice. The first one I'd like to mention is the Audemars Piguet Remaster 02 Automatic. This is a reproduction of a model that was produced in very limited numbers in 1960. The asymmetrical case is completely satin-finished.

　Normally, a satin finish is applied with sandpaper. If it is applied shallowly, the lines will not come out cleanly, and if it is applied deeply, the corners will become rounded. Therefore, many satin-finished cases have a polished finish added to the areas where the satin finish meets. This is to make the case look neat, but also to effectively hide the rounded corners.

　Audemars Piguet has achieved a nearly completely satin finish for the Royal Oak case, with barely any polish between the satin layers. This is an incredible feat for a watch case, but the Remaster 02 Automatic takes it to the next level. Honestly, I have no idea how they managed it.

　I think it takes a lot of good taste to casually choose a watch like this and treat it without damaging it. I have unconditional respect for anyone who can wear this watch on a daily basis. I would even like to award them a medal with Chronos.

Excelsior Park "EP 884-SI"

　Being able to grin without anyone noticing is a good idea for an otaku. And if you take it to the extreme, it just comes down to casually wearing a regular watch. No one will know, after all. I can understand the feelings of Nigel Cabourn, who favors Lemania chronographs and IWC Pilot's Watches. His favorites include Grand Seiko (Ref. SBGW305), Baltic, Nomos Glashütte, Prim, Frederique Constant, and Raymond Weil. And Yema, Chrono Tokyo, and more recently, Fukushima Watch.

　There are many great options, but this time I chose the Excelsior Park, a modest three-hand watch. It's an incredibly uninspiring watch these days, but on closer inspection, it's not badly made. The hour and second hands are carefully bent, and the dial and case fit snugly together. The floppy strap isn't bad at all, considering it's a 1940s style. And yet, it's water resistant to 10 bar, so you can wear it without mercy. It's clearly not what most people would consider stylish, but from an otaku perspective, it's definitely a stylish watch. No one would agree, but that's what I think, so that's fine.

　So, I bought this watch. I don't think I have any sense of fashion, but it's nice to have something that makes me smile. For those who want to immerse themselves in their own world over the New Year holidays, this is the watch for you. It's priced at 159,500 yen, so even an office worker can afford it.

Deputy Editor-in-Chief Suzuki Yukiya's recommended "Stylish Watches"

　The Japanese edition of Chronos will celebrate its 20th anniversary in 2025. Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, who has been involved in the editing of the magazine since its first issue, has chosen the Patek Philippe CUBITUS and the Cartier Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph as his "tasteful watches."

Patek Philippe "CUBITUS"

　The theme this time is "Stylish watches." In a sense, it's a very subjective theme, but since I'm recommending watches to others, I thought long and hard about which models I would consider stylish to wear.

　After careful consideration, we decided to introduce a model that is literally "stylish" among the most popular and trendy watches right now. This is the simplest stainless steel model from the completely new "CUBITUS" collection, which Patek Philippe released for the first time in a quarter century.

　Since its announcement on October 17, 2024, various opinions have been flying around, especially on social media, and it's clear that this is a model that is difficult to evaluate just by looking at images. To be honest, I have been withholding my evaluation because judging it based on images alone without seeing the actual product would be just a "subjective impression."

　On December 3rd, a CUBITUS exhibition was held in Japan, and I was able to hold the three models in platinum, stainless steel x 18KRG combination, and stainless steel for the first time, and finally get to talk about what they really are. In the pictures, the CUBITUS looked quite large and bulky, but the actual watch is well-balanced and fits very naturally on the wrist.

　First, I tried on the Ref. 5822P. As it has a platinum case, it feels quite heavy, but the thickness is just under 10mm, at 9.6mm, and the lugs are integrated into the case, making it more compact than it looks, even with a 45mm case size (diameter from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock). It fits comfortably on the wrist, and I could easily imagine it wouldn't get in the way of the cuffs of a formal shirt.

　Afterwards, I tried on the stainless steel model, Ref. 5821/1, and it felt even better. At just 8.3mm thick, the stainless steel model is even thinner than the platinum model, making it comfortable to wear and lightweight. Its square shape naturally complements formal styles, but the stainless steel bracelet also allows it to be coordinated with a wide range of informal outfits and occasions.

　Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern said, "I've wanted a square watch for many years," and the new "CUBITUS" collection was finally released. Furthermore, as Stern stated, "This model is a cousin of the Aquanaut and Nautilus," this design, which is in the Nautilus lineage, has sparked some controversy, but it wasn't until I held the actual watch in my hands that I truly felt it had a "new personality."

　The case is square, measuring 45mm (diameter from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock), and although it is certainly a large case, its thickness of less than 10mm and the lugs that are integrated into the case make it fit comfortably on the wrist.At first glance, it looks like a Nautilus, and its square shape is firmly asserted, giving it the presence that is typical of Patek Philippe.

　If you wear this watch, you'll definitely be glued to your wrist.

Cartier "Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph"

　Another model that comes to mind as a "stylish watch" is the Cartier Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph. As a revival of the monopusher chronograph released in 1928, it has a classic look, but what's also great about it is that it is equipped with the Cal. 1928 MC chronograph movement, which was developed in-house by Cartier.

　The combination of a classic exterior and a mechanical chronograph movement that could only be developed by Cartier, now a manufacturer, makes this a model that we can proudly vouch for, boasting great taste in both appearance and substance!

　Moreover, although it is a chronograph with a classic design, it is not a typical round shape, which best symbolizes the ``virtue'' of Cartier, a brand with origins as a high jeweler.

　This watch is so cool that there's no need to call it a "stylish watch."

Yuto Hosoda's recommended "good-looking watches"

　Among the editorial staff, Hosoda Yuto, who has the most diverse hobbies and the strongest desire for material things (!?), chose the Breguet "Classic Minute Repeater 7637" and the TASAKI "FACE OF TASAKI" as his "tasteful watches."

Breguet "Classic Minute Repeater 7637"

　I struggled with the most difficult task yet of choosing a high-end watch. For my first watch, I decided to choose one that combines a distinctive personality that makes it instantly recognizable as a specific brand or model, with simplicity at a high level. So, as a model that combines these two elements and even boasts a high complication, I personally recommend the Classic Minute Repeater 7637.

　It has only two hands in a round case. The rest is the brand logo and indices, making it a minimalist watch, but anyone can see that it is a Breguet classic, and it has an overwhelming individuality. And the fact that such a simple appearance conceals the ultra-complex mechanism of a minute repeater. It's fair to say that this clever packaging is high-class.

　He wears an 18K gold case and black dial to a party, wearing a black tie outfit, and checks the time by the sound, not by looking at the dial. This man, whose sense of style is so different from ours, must be cool.

TASAKI "FACE OF TASAKI"

　Unlike specialized watch manufacturers, jewelry brands with unique and attractive designs seem to have many high-end models. One that particularly catches my eye is TASAKI's "FACE OF TASAKI." The design, with its rectangular case and slender lugs, is both familiar and fresh. While evoking conflicting impressions, the fact that it doesn't feel out of place at all is what gives the watch its high-end design.

　If you look at the dial, you will see a mysterious circle that at first glance may look like a small seconds hand. This is a pearl motif attached to the automatic winding rotor located on the back of the date display, and it is a gimmick that rotates in accordance with the movement of the rotor. When you look at this mechanism and the movement from the back cover, it looks like it is "manually wound no matter how you look at it." Such a playful idea would never come up with a conservative watch manufacturer.

　Using the brand's iconic pearl as its theme, TASAKI has created a stunning dress watch with a simple yet completely new design and a completely new gimmick. It is truly a stylish and stylish watch.

Chieko Tsuruoka's recommended "Stylish watches"

Our editor, Chieko Tsuruoka, who always thinks of buying a stylish watch but tends to buy a subdued watch with three central hands (which is also stylish), chooses the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface.

Patek Philippe "Golden Ellipse"

　I always decide the topic for the "Editor's Recommended Watches" series. I usually decide based on requests from readers or by taking into consideration trends in the watch market at the time of writing. However, this time, because I wanted to recommend the "Golden Ellipse," released by Patek Philippe in 2024, and because the first thing I thought when I saw this piece was, "It's so tasteful!", I forced myself (sorry everyone) to choose the topic "Stylish Watches." However, I also wanted to know what kind of design, concept, or function the Kronos members, who see a variety of watches on a daily basis, consider to be "stylish."

　Anyway, the Golden Ellipse is a wristwatch that was introduced by Patek Philippe in 1968. Its thin oval case is still original even today, and while it's by no means flashy, it's one of those watches that you'll never forget once you've seen it. Since then, the Golden Ellipse has been made available in many variations, while retaining its original design and being updated with the times. One of these variations, the Milanese bracelet model, was revived in 2024 using modern technology. It's the Ref. 5738/1 mentioned above.

　This model is full of style, with its iconic square case and dressy gold bracelet. It is not just stylish, but also exceptional in that it is practical as well.

　This is because many old metal bracelets, including Milanese bracelets that are made by braiding, had to be cut. This was especially true for dressy gold bracelets for women, and although I liked the design and feel, I was somewhat hesitant to buy one. Later, Hirota wrote that a model had appeared that allowed adjustment by connecting regular links to the end of the Milanese bracelet (see reference article:http://www.webchronos.net/features/113956/Although this piece may look Milanese at first glance, the pieces are not braided but are connected with horizontal pins, allowing the bracelet to be adjusted to fit your wrist without having to be cut.

　The bracelet was designed, manufactured, and patented by German high jeweler Wellendorff (I also learned this information from Hirota's article). The bracelet I saw at the new product exhibition was smooth and elegant, and it had the exact same feel as the Golden Ellipse Milanese bracelet model I saw a long time ago. It brought back memories, and I was determined to feature this model in some article, which led to this project.

　When I imagine a scene where the Golden Ellipse casually peeks out from the cuff of a jacket, I can only sense good taste.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface

　As Hosoda also writes, when thinking about what constitutes "good taste" in a watch, he thinks it's important that it has an iconic character that makes it instantly recognizable as a product of that brand, despite its simplicity. In that respect, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a watch with "very" good taste.

　The Reverso is a square case watch, which other companies also make but which has a smaller market share than round cases, and is further enhanced by the gimmick of being able to "flip over." Though simple, the straight lines connecting the lugs and the case, and the rectangular dial that matches the case, are full of originality that you will never forget once you see it. It is actually very difficult to be unique without being eccentric.

　The Reverso is Jaeger-LeCoultre's most famous collection, and is available in a wide variety of variations.

　While the "Duo" model, which reveals a different dial when the case is flipped over, and models with moon phases are nice, I chose the "Reverso Tribute Monoface," a watch that truly exudes simplicity. This new model, released in October 2024, is a minimalist Reverso without a date or even a second hand. The Reverso was created in 1931 as a watch whose case could be flipped over to prevent the crystal from breaking during intense polo matches. Its small dimensions, measuring 40.1mm long, 24.4mm wide, and 7.56mm thick, similar to the original model produced in 1931, also contribute to its horological "good taste."

　By the way, I personally think that people who wear small-diameter watches have good taste, regardless of whether their wrists are thin or thick. A large acquaintance of mine, 185cm tall and weighing an unknown amount, was previously wearing a Patek Philippe Calatrava with a 33mm case diameter, and I honestly thought it looked cool.

　If you are looking for a watch with a stylish yet small case, consider the Reverso Tribute Monoface.

"Stylish watches" recommended by Yosuke Ohashi

Yosuke Ohashi, who is rumored to have "good taste in watches," chose the Montblanc Ice Sea Automatic Date and the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver.

Montblanc "Ice Sea Automatic Date"

　I apologize for talking about myself, but one of my many hobbies is collecting old graphic ephemera. It sounds a bit pretentious when written in horizontal letters, but it basically refers to "paper items" like matches and drink labels. Paper items have several charms, but one of the biggest is lettering. People are always impressed by the "free" "handmade" expression that existed before the introduction of computers and phototypesetting.

　That's why, even though I'm not a designer, I feel a little disappointed when I see a watch that uses a font that can be printed on a computer for the inscription on the dial. I can't help but think, as a superficial thinker, that it might have been better if they had paid a little more attention to the font or prepared a logo with lettering specifically for it.

　For me, the ideal watch is the Montblanc Ice Sea Automatic Date. Its appeal lies in the history it conveys through the logo and mark design on the dial, and the unique twist it offers.

　Let's start with the logo at 12 o'clock. When you think of Montblanc, you think of the logo in "that" Gothic font. However, this model does not use that logo, instead using the old logo with an illustration of a mountain in the center.

　At 6 o'clock, there is a mark that is an adaptation of the Minerva export trademark, which Montblanc acquired. This mark is reminiscent of an intricate copperplate engraving, and it is captivating to look at.

　Instead of using logos and marks commonly used in regular collections, Montblanc has taken a twist by using old ones from its archives. And Montblanc has chosen logos and marks that are pleasing to look at. Their sense is truly impressive.

　By the way, among the "typefaces" used in wristwatches, in addition to the index numbers that are often mentioned, is there a reference book somewhere that collects the lettering used on the dial and explains the fonts used?　

Zenith "Defy Extreme Diver"

　When you look at the design of a watch, you can somehow see the roots of its design sensibility. For example, this brand is an extension of traditional watchmaking, and this collection is surprisingly full of product design ideas. However, there are some watches that, despite their incredibly clever design, have no trace of their roots. That is Zenith's current Defy. The Defy Extreme Diver is the best example of this.

　Certainly, it is clear that it follows the original Defy, such as the adoption of a polygonal bezel, but it also incorporates a wealth of elements that could be called "mutants" that significantly change its DNA.

　One obvious example of this is the regularly-spaced cutouts on the dial, reminiscent of a four-pointed star, arranged like tiles. It's rare to see such an unprecedented design. And one can't help but admire the ingenuity of Zenith, a brand that has made this a reality, rather than leaving it as mere armchair theory.

　And one more thing: It seems likely, but the designers deliberately used some kind of proportion that would create symmetry when the parts were combined, and that proportion seems to come from outside the bounds of conventional wisdom in the watch world.

　There is something about the Defy that makes it different. It's not easy to explain that mutation in words. But it seems like a worthwhile challenge. Who is the designer behind the Defy?