The appeal of mechanical watches lies in their precise construction and the mechanisms of their movements, which are packed with the skill of artisans. Mechanical watches, which do not use batteries but keep time through the interlocking of internal parts, are a true fusion of technology and beauty. Here we will provide a detailed explanation of the mechanisms and types of mechanical watches, as well as the correct ways to handle and maintain them. We hope this will be useful for those who are planning to purchase a watch or who want to further their appreciation of watches.
How a mechanical watch works
The basic structure of a mechanical watch relies on an internal mechanism called the movement, which is made up of parts such as the mainspring, gears, and escapement that work together to power the entire watch.
Here we will explain in detail how each part functions and keeps the watch running.
How the mainspring stores and releases energy
The mainspring is the power source of a mechanical watch, storing energy when wound up. When the mainspring unwinds, this energy is released and converted through gears to move the hands of the watch.
There are two mainspring winding methods: manual winding, where the crown is turned manually, and automatic winding, where the watch is automatically wound using arm movement, etc.
In the case of an automatic watch, a part called a rotor rotates in accordance with the movement of the arm, winding the mainspring.
How the mainspring generates the power to drive the entire watch and transmits it efficiently is also a symbol of the precision of a mechanical watch.
Time display using a gear train mechanism
The gear train mechanism is the group of gears that transmits the energy supplied by the mainspring to the hands and displays the time.
The movement of these gears allows the second, minute, and hour hands to rotate at precise speeds.
For example, as the second hand makes one revolution, the minute hand advances slightly, which then moves in tandem with the hour hand. Each gear has a name and plays a role in accurately distributing energy.
Specifically, there are the barrel (first wheel), second wheel, third wheel, fourth wheel, etc. The minute hand is attached to the second wheel, which rotates once in 60 minutes, and the second hand is attached to the fourth wheel, which rotates once in 60 seconds. The hour hand is attached to the second wheel (one rotation in 12 hours), which is driven by a gear that slows down the power of the second wheel.
Escapement and balance wheel regulation
The escapement has the role of adjusting the energy supplied from the mainspring in constant increments and transmitting it to the balance. It consists of parts called the escape wheel and anchor, and the anchor controls the rotation of the escape wheel, creating the rhythm that causes the clock hands to move regularly.
The balance wheel is the heart of a watch and is made up of a balance wheel and a hairspring. When the hairspring expands and contracts due to the power supplied by the escapement, it gives the balance wheel a regular oscillation cycle. This oscillation cycle in turn moves the escapement at a regular rhythm.
These act like tiny pendulums, vibrating at a constant rate that keeps the clock accurate. The frequency varies depending on the clock, from 28,800 vph to 36,000 vph.
Characteristics and Mechanism of Manually Wound Watches
A manual-winding watch is a watch whose mainspring is wound only by the user turning the crown. The act of winding the mainspring with one's own hands is a moment of communication between the owner and the watch, and is one of the joys of mechanical watches.
Manual mainspring winding
By manually turning the crown, the mainspring is wound, storing energy in the form of spring tension that is gradually released to power the entire watch.
When actually winding the mainspring by hand, you should turn the crown slowly and be careful not to wind it any further once you feel it stop. Stopping refers to a state in which the crown returns to its original position or becomes extremely heavy. Attempting to wind the crown excessively after it has stopped will put strain on the internal mechanisms of the movement and may cause a malfunction.
Be sure to wind the mainspring regularly according to your watch's specifications (power reserve).
Advantages and disadvantages of manual winding
The advantage of a manual-winding watch is that it has a simple structure because it does not have an automatic winding mechanism. As a result, the watch body can be designed to be thin. Also, because there is no rotor for automatic winding, the movement inside the case is not hidden. For this reason, some luxury watches often use movements with excellent aesthetic appeal.
In addition, because there are fewer parts, there is a lower risk of breakdown, and it is lightweight and comfortable to wear. Furthermore, overhaul costs are relatively low.
On the other hand, if you forget to wind your watch, it will stop, so it is important to make the habit of winding the mainspring daily. Also, overwinding the mainspring can cause internal damage, so it is important to know how to wind it properly.
Characteristics and Mechanism of Automatic Watches
An automatic watch is a watch that uses the movement of your arm during everyday life to wind the mainspring. This feature eliminates the need for manual winding while wearing the watch, making it highly convenient. However, if the watch is used extremely infrequently or if your arm movement is insufficient, the mainspring may not be sufficiently wound, and manual winding may be necessary. However, it should be noted that a very small number of inexpensive automatic watches do not have a manual winding function.
The principle of automatic winding with a rotor
The movement of an automatic watch is equipped with a part called a rotor. This rotor rotates with every movement of the wrist, and this rotational energy is used to wind the mainspring.
Everyday movements, such as walking or working, are the source of power for a watch. As the rotor turns, the rotation of the gears is rectified through a winding mechanism such as a reverser or magic lever, and the mainspring is gradually wound, supplying the energy to drive the entire watch.
The mainspring can be wound through everyday movements such as walking to work or typing at a desk. This mechanism makes automatic watches popular as practical and convenient items.
"One-way winding" and "bi-directional winding" of automatic watches
Automatic watches can be "bidirectionally wound," meaning the mainspring can be wound regardless of whether the rotor rotates clockwise or counterclockwise, or "unidirectionally wound," meaning energy is stored only when the rotor rotates in a specific direction.
Unidirectional winding has the advantage of being highly durable and allowing the rotor to turn easily even with slight arm movements, while bidirectional winding has multiple mechanisms to rectify the rotation of the gears when the winding gear and the rotor rotate in opposite directions, and each method has its own advantages and disadvantages.
For more details on each, please read the related articles below.
http://www.webchronos.net/features/121175/
http://www.webchronos.net/features/121209/
http://www.webchronos.net/features/120246/
The advantages and disadvantages of automatic watches
The biggest advantage of an automatic watch is that it is powered simply by being worn and requires no special handling, making it easy to use even during busy daily lives.
Also, compared to a manual-wind watch, there is no need to worry excessively about the remaining mainspring, which gives a sense of security. Of course, as long as you are using it, it rarely stops, so there is less effort required to set the time. However, the biggest advantage is that the mainspring continues to be wound while you are wearing it, so the torque tends to be stable. As a result, dynamic accuracy tends to be high.
On the other hand, the addition of a rotor increases the thickness of the movement, which in turn tends to make the case itself thicker. Naturally, this also increases the risk of the watch stopping if it is not used frequently or left unused for an extended period of time.
Therefore, if you are not going to use the watch for a long period of time, you will need to wind the mainspring manually or consider using a winding machine that constantly rotates the watch and moves the rotor. Another disadvantage is that the structure is more complex, so the risk of breakdown and repair costs may be higher than with a manual winding watch.
Key points for maintaining and extending the life of a mechanical watch
Mechanical watches are precision instruments, and proper handling and regular maintenance will help maintain their performance and beauty for a long period of time. To do this, it is important to pay attention to the daily usage environment and frequency of maintenance. This section explains specific points to keep in mind when properly caring for your watch.
Points to be aware of in daily handling
Mechanical watches are precision products that are vulnerable to shock, magnetism, high temperatures, and humidity. Powerful magnets are used in speakers on smartphones and PCs, and the back charging ports on smartphones and PCs also emit strong magnetic fields. These magnets can affect the internal components of the watch, reducing its accuracy, so caution is required.
For this reason, it's best to keep electronic devices like computers, tablets, and cell phones, as well as magnetic necklaces, away from watches. Meanwhile, many mechanical watches with magnetic resistance have been released in recent years, and some models minimize the effects of everyday magnetism. For example, watches with magnetic resistance standards established by ISO standards or models that use antimagnetic materials inside the movement are less susceptible to magnetic influences.
Additionally, if you wear a watch while exercising or doing heavy work, strong impacts can damage the movement and exterior parts. Obviously, you need to be careful about dropping or bumping your watch. For this reason, we recommend avoiding wearing your watch when exercising or engaging in outdoor activities. You should also avoid hot and humid environments, and we don't recommend wearing your watch in a sauna or hot bath.
Even if your watch is waterproof, it's best to avoid exposing it to more water pressure than necessary. And as with all watches, it's important to wipe off any dirt or moisture immediately after use. By keeping these points in mind and treating your watch in a way that suits its characteristics, you can significantly extend its lifespan.
The importance of regular overhauls
Regular overhauls of mechanical watches can help maintain their accuracy and operation. The internal lubricants deteriorate over time, whether the watch is being used or not, so it is generally recommended to have your watch overhauled at a professional watch repair shop every 3 to 5 years. When having your watch overhauled, it is important to choose a reputable watch repair shop and check whether the manufacturer's warranty is still valid.
This involves completely disassembling the watch, cleaning the components, and replacing worn parts if necessary. This includes cleaning, lubricating, adjusting the accuracy, and testing the water resistance. Additionally, an overhaul often restores the watch's accuracy.
If neglected, deterioration of the lubricant will lead to increased friction and wear of parts, which may eventually make the watch irreparable. Regular inspections and maintenance are essential to extending the life of your watch. When requesting an overhaul, be sure to choose a reliable watch repair shop, check whether the shop has a manufacturer's warranty, and get a quote in advance.
Storage method and environmental influences
If you are not going to be using a mechanical watch for an extended period of time, it is important to pay attention to the appropriate storage environment. Avoiding direct sunlight, high temperatures, and humidity, and storing in a well-ventilated place will prevent deterioration of the watch body and internal parts. Direct sunlight, in particular, requires special attention, as ultraviolet rays can cause discoloration of the dial and hands, and temperature changes can affect the accuracy of the watch. Humidity can also cause rust on metal parts and mold on leather straps, so using a moisture-proofing agent when storing is also effective.
If a watch is not used for a long period of time, the lubricants used in modern watches have improved, making it less likely to seize even if the movement is not moved frequently. However, it is still important to move the watch periodically and check its operation. Winding the mainspring and moving the movement every few weeks not only helps circulate the oil inside, but also provides a good opportunity to check its operating condition.
A winder is a device that automatically winds the mainspring of an automatic watch, and is particularly useful if you own multiple watches or if you are not going to wear a watch for a long period of time. However, it is recommended that you avoid setting it to overwind and select a rotation speed appropriate for the watch.
By combining daily care with proper storage, you can further extend the accuracy and lifespan of your mechanical watch, allowing you to enjoy it for a long time.
Understanding how mechanical watches work makes them even more fun
Understanding how mechanical watches work broadens their appeal. By learning how the intricate parts inside the movement work together to keep time, you will realize that a watch is more than just a tool that tells time.
Also, knowing the difference between manual and automatic watches will help you choose a watch that suits your lifestyle. Furthermore, daily care and regular maintenance will allow you to enjoy your watch for a long time. Mechanical watches are special because they combine history, technology, and beauty.
I hope you will gain a deep understanding of its value and fully enjoy its charm in your daily life.
