Five carefully selected masterpiece chronograph watches from the new 2024 models!

2024.12.15

We've selected five noteworthy chronographs from the new models for 2024. They all feature highly refined new movements or are based on popular historical masterpieces, making them all incredibly appealing.

Text by Shinichi Sato
Text by Yukaco Numamoto
[Article published on January 15, 2024]


Cartier's new dressy Privée Torche Monopusher Chronograph reinterprets heritage

 The Cartier Privé collection, which is based on the many heritage pieces that have been part of Cartier's long history, is now in its eighth year. This year, a modern reinterpretation of the Tortue, which first appeared in 1912, was released.

 This time we are looking at the Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph. In addition to the 18K yellow gold model shown here, a platinum model has also been announced.

 The Tortue monopusher chronograph model has a history dating back to 1998, when it was released as the Collection Privée Cartier Paris. This model follows the design of the 1998 model, while retaining a classic design.

 The grained dial and ivory base color give it a classic look, in contrast to the platinum case model released at the same time, which has a modern silver opaline dial.

 The case and dial are symmetrical, with a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock and a small second at 9 o'clock. The hand-wound chronograph movement is the newly designed Cal. 1928 MC, which is characterized by its thin design to maintain the Tortue styling. As a result, the finished thickness of this watch has been kept to 10.2mm.

Cartier Privé Tortue Monopusher Chronograph

Cartier "Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph"
Manual winding (Cal. 1928 MC). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 44 hours. 18K yellow gold case (43.7mm x 34.8mm, 10.2mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide. 7,788,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00


The Speedmaster First Omega in Space is a reproduction of the first Omega to be sent into space.

 Omega's Speedmaster is one of the most iconic chronograph models in the world, and its popularity is no surprise, given its history of being carried into space and supporting numerous missions.

 The recently announced "Speedmaster First Omega in Space" is a reproduction of the second model of the Speedmaster, the Ref. CK 2998, which was the first Omega to be sent into space. The model of the same name was released in 2012, but was sadly discontinued. This time, it has been re-released with a Master Chronometer movement equipped with a Co-Axial escapement.

 The design of this watch is faithful to the original Reference CK 2998, right down to the finest details. The sharp, symmetrical case shape without crown guards is paired with a blue-gray CVD dial. The three-dimensional logo at 12 o'clock, alpha-shaped hour and minute hands, the tanned indexes, and the domed sapphire crystal crystal reminiscent of Hesalite crystal all convey the spirit of the original model.

 The movement, Cal. 3861, is a Master Chronometer and has extremely high magnetic resistance of over 15,000 gauss. Its accuracy is tested under various conditions before shipping, including in a magnetic field, when the watch is in a different position, and when the power reserve is reduced to about one-third of its full capacity. This model combines the iconic looks that supported the mission of the past with the highest reliability by modern standards.

Speedmaster First Omega in Space Ref.310.30.40.50.06.001

Omega "Speedmaster First Omega in Space" Ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001
Manual winding (Cal. 3861). 26 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.7 mm, thickness 13.4 mm). 50m water resistant. 1,210,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Omega Tel. 0570-000087


A modern bracelet model has been added to the design that returns to the origins: Breguet Type XX 2067

 Breguet's pilot's chronograph, which was revamped in 2023 by returning to the design of the original model, has expanded its lineup this year with more variations, including the bracelet model introduced here.

 Breguet's current pilot's chronographs can be broadly divided into the Type 20 (2057), a reproduction of the model delivered to the French Air Force from 1955 to 1959, and the Type XX (2067), based on a model sold for civilian use. The former is characterized by two subdials with pencil-shaped hands, while the latter is characterized by three subdials with alpha-shaped hour and minute hands and a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 12-hour display.

 The movement is the Caliber 728 (Caliber 7281 for the Type 20), newly developed for the 2023 update, based on the premise of incorporating the flyback function, which was a requirement of the French Air Force and had become a functional icon. The flyback function allows the chronograph to be reset and re-measured without stopping the function while measuring, and was essential for pilots to determine their position in high-speed aircraft.

 The Type XX 2067 features a 15-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a small seconds at 9 o'clock. The 15-minute counter, in particular, was added to the Type XX from the second generation onwards and features a distinctive asymmetrical design with large, prominent indices every three minutes. The movement inside is Breguet's signature, cutting-edge design, with a silicon balance spring, escape wheel, and pallet for resistance to magnetic fields, and a black DLC coating on the column wheel for a refined appearance and improved operation.

Breguet Type XX 2067

Breguet "Type XX 2067" Ref. 2067ST/92/SW0
Automatic movement (Cal. 728). 39 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42 mm, thickness 14.1 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 3,366,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211


The Longines Spirit Flyback now comes in an elegant matte green color

 When talking about the flyback function, it is impossible to leave out Longines. Longines has been producing chronographs with a flyback function since as early as 1925, and obtained a patent for it in 1936. This time, we will be looking at the Longines Spirit Flyback, a model that pays tribute to this history and has a design reminiscent of chronograph models of the past, combining a matte green base with 18K yellow gold.

 The dial features a matte green gradation with a yellow hue towards the center, and the crown and pushers are made of 18K yellow gold, adding a touch of elegance. The various markings, including the indexes, and the hands are also yellow gold.

 The Arabic numerals, pencil-shaped hands, and case without a crown guard create a design reminiscent of classic chronograph models, while modern textures are added, such as a ceramic bezel insert. The chronograph movement Cal. L791.4 with flyback function has a silicon balance spring, a power reserve of approximately 68 hours, and is a COSC-certified chronometer, making it highly practical by modern standards.

Longines "Longines Spirit Flyback" Ref. L3.821.5.53.2
Automatic movement (Cal. L791.4). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 68 hours. SS x 18K Yellow Gold case (diameter 42mm, thickness 17mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 954,800 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Longines Tel. 03-6254-7350


The masterpiece chronograph "903" has been revamped! Now available as "903.St.BEⅡ"

 Among professional pilot watches, Sinn's "903" series, a masterpiece of navigation chronographs equipped with a rotating slide rule, has been revamped this year. The 903 series is a collection that has been in the lineup for a long time without changing its basic design since its release, and has gained popularity as a special model deeply connected to the history of Sinn and the watch industry.

 What's particularly noteworthy is that the revamped watch is closer to the original model. The rotary slide rule, inherited from the original model, allows for calculations of time, distance, and fuel consumption during aircraft flight, and supported many pilots in an era when aircraft technology was underdeveloped. In previous models, the crown for operating the rotary slide rule was separate from the crown for setting the time, in order to achieve both the rotary slide rule and water resistance. However, the new model has been redesigned to be more faithful to the original, with a bezel-operated system. This change meant that the rotary slide rule inside the crystal had to be operated from outside the case, making it difficult to ensure water resistance. However, the revamped case design allows for smooth operation while achieving 20 bar water resistance. The bezel's textured periphery is also an iconic feature inherited from the original model.

 This update includes the regular models, the black "903.St.II" and the dark blue "903.St.BEII." The 903.St.BEII shown here features a subdued dark blue with an ivory-colored outer edge of the rotating slide rule, and is finished with a slightly burnt-colored luminous paint, creating a classic impression. The indexes and hour and minute hands are made of hybrid ceramic with a high-concentration luminous paint, which gives them a three-dimensional look and a high level of brightness, achieving both texture and visibility.

Jin "903.St.BEⅡ"

Jin "903.St.BEⅡ"
Automatic movement (LJP L110). 26 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.5mm). Water resistant to 20 bar (DIN8309 compliant). Horse leather strap: 770,000 yen, bracelet: 841,500 yen (both including tax). (Inquiries) Hotta Co., Ltd. Tel. 03-5148-2174



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