We'll introduce five current chronograph watch models with attractive vintage designs. These models inherit the designs of classics that contributed to the development of mankind and timepieces, and are manufactured using modern technology, making them masterpieces that are a joy to look at and use.

Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 15, 2024]
Experience the chronograph beloved by professionals with modern technology
A chronograph watch is a watch equipped with a stopwatch function that can measure any time. Not only is the function itself practical, but it is also enjoyable to operate, and the dial with many hands and counters, as well as the movement design that makes extensive use of levers, are elements that attract many watch enthusiasts.
This time, we'll be introducing five current chronograph watch models with a distinctive vintage design. Chronographs were once considered specialized mechanisms for pilots and other professionals. Their complexity made the development of movements difficult, and their evolution often marked milestones in watchmaking history. Why not experience these classics, which can be used with confidence like modern timepieces, while also experiencing this history?
Breguet "Type XX 2067" Ref. 2067ST/92/3WU

This watch faithfully reproduces the design of the pilot's chronograph released by Breguet in the 1950s. It features a chronograph movement with a robust flyback mechanism and an exterior that is worthy of a modern model. Automatic winding (Cal. 728). 39 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.1mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 2,882,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
This is a reproduction of the Type XX, a civilian pilot's chronograph released by Breguet in the 1950s. It incorporates many of the original's design elements, such as a large 15-minute counter at the 3 o'clock position and a rotating bezel with numerals.
The black dial features vintage-colored luminous indices and hands, ensuring high visibility. The 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock is a feature exclusive to civilian models, not found on the military Type 20.
The slender lugs, pump-type pushers, and large, easy-to-grip crown are a classic pilot's chronograph design, but the sharp design is typical of Breguet, with a sharp finish that befits a luxury watch.
The Cal. 728 is a newly developed automatic chronograph movement featuring a robust flyback mechanism. The chronograph is controlled by a column wheel and vertical clutch, and features excellent specifications such as an anti-magnetic silicon escapement and a high beat rate of 10 vibrations per second that is resistant to external disturbances.
Zenith "Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar" Ref. 03.3400.3610/38.M3200

This model is equipped with the latest version of the legendary chronograph movement, El Primero. The elegant design is based on the design of the "A386." Automatic winding (Cal. El Primero 3610). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 1,914,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
El Primero was one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements, released in 1969. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is a model with a design that follows the A386, an early model equipped with this legendary movement.
The silver-white dial with black subdials is known as a "panda dial." The central chronograph second hand functions as a 1/10th of a second counter, with a dynamic movement of 10 vibrations per second. There's also a 60-second counter at the 3 o'clock position, a moon phase and 60-minute counter at the 6 o'clock position, and a small seconds at the 9 o'clock position. As the model name suggests, the watch also features a calendar function with small windows for the month at 2 o'clock, the date at 4:30, and the day of the week at 10 o'clock.
The Caliber El Primero 3610 is the latest movement in the El Primero lineage. The rotor and bridge are large and skeletonized, allowing you to enjoy the high-speed movement of the balance and gear train through the see-through caseback. It's also notable that despite its high beat, it achieves a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
Longines "Longines Avigation Big Eye" Ref. L2.816.4.53.2

This model is based on a pilot's chronograph from the 1930s. It is filled with designs that supported aviators in the early 20th century, such as a large 30-minute counter and a simply designed case. Automatic winding (Cal. L688). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 66 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.5mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 459,800 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Longines Tel. 03-6254-7350
This pilot's chronograph inherits the history of Longines, which has made significant contributions to the development of aviation. As the name "Big Eye" suggests, it features a large 30-minute counter located at the 3 o'clock position.
The dial is highly visible thanks to its luminous Arabic numerals, but it also boasts elaborate details such as a record-like grooved inset dial and long, elongated hands. The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to the vintage feel.
The 41mm stainless steel case has a strong design with just the right thickness. Its pump-shaped pushers and large crown, designed for ease of use, give it a tool-like feel. The classic design is also appealing down to the smallest details, such as the aircraft motif engraved on the case back and the brown calf leather strap with a pin buckle.
The movement used is the automatic chronograph Cal. L688. In addition to using a column wheel to control the chronograph, it also has a power reserve of approximately 66 hours, making it a highly practical movement.
Sinn "356 Flieger Classic AS.E"

A compact chronograph with a charming vintage feel, reminiscent of pilot watches from the 1940s. The reinforced acrylic crystal adds a soft touch to the gradient dial. Automatic movement (Cal. SW510). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 56 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38.5 mm, thickness 15.6 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 605,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Hotta Tel. 03-5148-2174
Sinn is a German watch brand that produces many professional pilot watches. The company has developed many unique technologies, including Ar-Dehumidifying Technology and Magnetic Field Protection, but the 356 is a collection that does not incorporate these Sinn technologies and allows you to enjoy the pure charm of a classic pilot watch.
The "356 Flieger Classic AS.E" introduced this time features a bi-compax gradient dial and vintage-colored luminous indexes and hands. Its design is reminiscent of classic pilot watches from the 1940s. The compact, sandblasted 38.5mm case is the same as the existing model, but the dial changes the look completely.
The strap is made of nubuck boa leather, which gives it a soft, brushed look, and its color matches the dial, which has a gradient from anthracite to black.
TAG Heuer "TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph" Ref. CAW211P.FC6356

This is a revival of the design of this epoch-making model, the world's first square-shaped waterproof chronograph watch, which was equipped with one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements, launched in 1969. The crown is located at 9 o'clock, emphasizing that it is an automatic watch. Automatic (Cal. 11). 59 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel (39mm x 39mm, 14.3mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. 1,127,500 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan TAG Heuer Tel. 03-5635-7030
TAG Heuer's Monaco is known as the world's first square-shaped waterproof chronograph watch. This model is a reproduction of that first model. A particularly unique feature is the design, with the crown located at 9 o'clock. This follows the characteristics of the Caliber 11, one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements featured in the original model. The Monaco is not only an epoch-making model, but it also garnered attention for being worn by lead actor Steve McQueen in the 1971 film "Le Mans." Naturally, this reproduction model is a coveted item for fans.
The nostalgic blue dial features two square subdials, and the inclusion of red throughout gives it a sporty look. The case, with its polished and hairline finishes, has sharp edges that convey a sense of modern precision. The perforated leather strap also evokes the racing scene.
The movement of this watch is a general-purpose three-hand movement with a chronograph module superimposed on it. The chronograph module is located on the dial side and cannot be seen, but the movement of the automatic winding rotor and the finish applied to the bridge can be seen through the see-through case back.



