This is a wear review of the Ref. SARY243 from the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection. Featuring an expressive brown dial inspired by cocktails, this elegant and tasteful GMT model is recommended as a first mechanical watch.
Photographs & Text by Kento Nii
[Article published on January 17, 2024]
"Cocktail Time" Collection Ref.SARY243
Seiko Presage is a mechanical watch brand launched in 2010 by Seiko, one of Japan's leading watch manufacturers. It inherits the company's more than 100-year-old tradition of watchmaking and aims to spread traditional Japanese beauty to the world. Compared to Seiko Prospex and Seiko Astron, the brand offers a diverse collection characterized by a classic and minimalist style.
One of the Seiko Presage series is "Cocktail Time." As the name suggests, the lineup includes models inspired by famous cocktails such as "Blue Moon" and "Sidecar." It's a series that offers the enjoyment of choosing, much like browsing through the various liqueurs lined up on a bar counter. Among these, the limited-edition collaboration model with Ginza's "STAR BAR," owned and operated by world-renowned bartender Hisashi Kishi, is a particularly popular and well-known collection.
Automatic movement (Cal. 4R34). 24 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 41 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.5 mm, thickness 12.8 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 46,200 yen (tax included).
The Ref. SARY243 we're reviewing today is a GMT model that joined the Cocktail Time lineup in 2024. Its elegant design, featuring a tasteful brown gradient dial, blends seamlessly with the hands of those sipping a glass at the bar counter. At 75,900 yen (tax included), it's within the recommended range for those just starting to drink, but even for someone like me who drinks every week, it's a reasonable price if they can hold off on bar drinks for a few months.
Cocktail-themed dial
Before reviewing the Ref. SARY243, I first asked the Seiko staff at my favorite watch shop about this watch. Apparently, this watch is inspired by a cocktail called "Rusty Nail." After researching, I found out that it's a cocktail made with Scotch whiskey and a liqueur called "Drambuie," and that the literal translation is "rusty nail." So, I decided to start by rushing to my favorite bar and trying a glass of this Rusty Nail.
Now that we've sipped our cocktails and gotten a general understanding of the motif, let's take a look at the dial of the Ref. SARY243. The brown dial, reminiscent of the brown hue of the Rusty Nail, features a gradation of color that is lighter in the center and darker on the periphery. Of particular note is the fan-like pattern that radiates outwards. This dial, which changes appearance dramatically depending on how the light hits it, has a truly tasteful finish that is reminiscent of a cocktail viewed through a glass or ice cubes.
Another noteworthy feature of the dial is the 24-hour display used for the GMT function. The hours from 1 to 23 are displayed in increments of one between each index, allowing the GMT function to blend seamlessly into the dial while still leaving ample room for the dial's tasteful pattern. This creates an exquisite balance, with the Breguet numerals and gold GMT hand nicely subduing the sophistication typical of the brown color. This makes it easy to incorporate into any outfit, even for young people buying their first watch.
The overall impression of the display, including the hands and indices, is classical. The indices are wedge-shaped, and the hour and minute hands are divided in the middle and have different finishes on the left and right, giving them a dauphine-like appearance. Both are eye-catching elements on the dial. The second hand also extends smoothly to the minute track, making it both highly visible and easy to read.
After wearing this watch for about a week, I can say that the dial is definitely its highlight. The rich brown color is perfect for expressing the Rusty Nail cocktail. The way the dial changes dramatically with the reflection of light also seems to express the deep sweetness of the cocktail as it spreads in your mouth. Another plus point is how the layout of the GMT function blends seamlessly into the classic look.
The only thing that bothered me was the calendar at 3 o'clock. This is the only part of the dial that is monochrome, and the more I enjoy the richness of the dial, the more its uniqueness stands out. However, considering the price range of around 7 yen, it may be too much to ask for more perfection.
The fit is sufficient
The case design is quite simple. The crystal that covers the dial is made of box-shaped Hardlex, highlighting the watch's graceful curves. When worn, it fits comfortably on the wrist. The entire surface, including the lugs, is polished, and combined with the classic dial, it exudes a dressy atmosphere. With a case diameter of 40.5mm and a thickness of 12.8mm, it fits comfortably under the cuff of a shirt, making it easy to coordinate with a wide range of outfits, including suits.
The strap is a standard black calf leather, which matches the dial well. To create a more refined and cohesive look, you could also change it to a brown one. The leather strap is also fitted with a folding buckle. Its curved shape makes it comfortable to wear, which I personally found to be a plus.
Uncompromising performance for everyday use
The Ref. SARY243 is equipped with the Cal. 4R34 movement, which the same manufacturer uses in the Presage and the GMT model of the Seiko 5 Sports. It has a power reserve of approximately 41 hours, accuracy of -35 to +45 seconds per day, and excellent winding performance thanks to the Magic Lever.
The crown can be pulled out in two stages. Turning it clockwise in the first stage advances the GMT hand by one hour, while turning it counterclockwise advances the calendar by one day. The second stage allows you to adjust the main time. I actually tried adjusting the crown, and there was little play in its rotation, making it easy to adjust the time.
In addition, the Ref. SARY243 case is water resistant to 5 bar and also has a certain degree of magnetic resistance. Overall, it is a watch with specifications that are unlikely to cause inconvenience when choosing it for everyday use. For a mechanical watch in the sub-80,000 yen price range, it is a watch with impeccable performance.
A GMT watch with the charm of a cocktail
We reviewed the Seiko Presage GMT watch, Ref. SARY243, part of the Cocktail Time series. With its elegant and tasteful brown dial, this is a watch that you'll want to keep by the bar counter, but we also highly recommend it as a first mechanical watch.
I also tried the cocktail that inspired this piece, and after tasting it, looking at the dial really brought home to me the excellent expression techniques of Seiko. I would definitely like to try the other models in the Cocktail Time series with the cocktails that inspired them.
