The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2024, a trade fair for new watch developments. This article, which was featured in the magazine as a "Revolution in Exteriors," is being republished on webChronos. This time, we will explore Jaeger-LeCoultre's revolution in exteriors, starting with the revived "Duomètre."
Interview and text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
The importance of exterior design, as symbolized by the revival of the Duometre
Moving away from the impression that "its strength is its movement" and improving the quality of its exterior finish, Jaeger-LeCoultre is perhaps the brand most actively working to meet the needs of young, watch-savvy users. The new product line that epitomizes this is the revived "Duomètre." While the basic design of the movement remains the same, it is housed in a new case modeled after a 19th-century savonette watch. The importance of exterior design at the prototype stage is now equal to, or even greater than, the movement, with much attention being paid to it.
What is the new "Duometre"?
This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the Duomètre as a product that simultaneously expresses technology, tradition, and modernity. In terms of product mapping, it comes second only to the Hybris. In other words, it is the highest-ranking piece in the permanent collection and a signature of the brand. The case structure of all models has been revised, aiming for proportions that evoke the 19th-century savonette watch (pocket watch).
The most difficult challenge was making the curvature of the box sapphire crystal fit perfectly with the large, raised bombe-shaped dial. A similar design approach was already attempted with last year's Tag Heuer Carrera and this year's IWC, but in those cases, the curvature was only on the fringe, which corresponds to the so-called inner bezel. However, with the Duomètre, they tried to achieve this with the entire dial. The concept was an open dial that seemed to be integrated with the curvature of the case. As many as 30 exterior prototypes were considered, and the final form was completed just one week before the opening of the W&WG.
A flagship model featuring an innovative three-axis carriage and a perpetual calendar with a big date. This model lacks a second hand, but the gear train structure is equipped with a deadbeat second to make the most of the two barrels. The design also allows for future expansion. Manual winding (Cal. 388). 89 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 46 hours. 18KPG case (44mm diameter, 14.7mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price upon request.
Of the three models in the lineup, the chronograph and moon phase models only feature minor improvements to the movements first released in 2007, while the flagship "Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual" is a completely new innovation. First of all, the three-axis Heliotourbillon equipped with a cylinder hairspring has a balance point tilted by more than 10 degrees compared to the previous Sphérotourbillon, dramatically increasing the axis travel distance. While the Sphéro uses three tilted gears, the Helio uses a universal joint.
This is also a new case version equipped with the Cal. 381, which first appeared in 2010. With the least amount of openwork on the dial, it feels more continuous with the case. Large steps on the dial surface have been avoided, and subtle variations in color and base have been used to create a sense of depth. Manual winding (Cal. 381). 42 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 13.05mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 6,952,000 yen (tax included).
(Right) Jaeger-LeCoultre "Duomètre Chronograph Moon"
This watch is equipped with the Cal. 391 movement, first released in 2007, housed in a newly designed case. The counter at 6 o'clock is a "foudroyante" movement, designed to connect the two barrels. When the chronograph is running, it is capable of measuring 1/6 of a second. The large, protruding bombé dial is an impressive feature. Manual winding (Cal. 391). 54 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 18KPG case (42.5mm diameter, 14.2mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price upon request.
A hidden masterpiece that shows the meticulous maturation of the movement. The use of silicon material for the escape wheel and pallet fork, and an open-type barrel, dramatically extends the power reserve. The moon in the moon phase display is silver. The slightly thicker zapon adds a nice touch. Automatic winding (Cal. 868). 46 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.2mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 4,444,000 yen (tax included).
Interview with Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO: "It's important to show that we are a historic Maison."
The surprise of 2024 is the revival of the Duomètre by Jaeger-LeCoultre. But why revive it now, 14 years later?
"We have many collections, but we didn't have anything that fully satisfied the combination of design, tradition, and modernity. That's why we revived Duomètre. However, the premise is that the products must be good, so we spent five to six years reviewing the products."
Born in France, she graduated from Boston University in 1999. She started out at Cartier in North America, then worked at Van Cleef & Arpels as commercial director for Asia Pacific, before becoming head of the entire Asia Pacific region. She has held her current position since May 2018. Since taking up her position, she has expanded her women's collection, and this year she has further emphasized complicated watches.
The revived Duomètre comes in four models: "Solid design, but combining modern and historic elements," says Catherine Régnier.
"Currently, Jaeger-LeCoultre has collections such as Polaris, Reverso, and Signature, and if you divide them by movement, there are Métierard and Hybris Mechanica. The Signature collection includes the Duomètre."
Jaeger-LeCoultre is currently expanding its collection with more complicated timepieces, and the Duomètre is set to broaden that scope. However, unlike its existing collection, the Duomètre has a design that is clearly inspired by classics.
"In order to balance the design, we reconsidered the case design. It was based on a savonette-style pocket watch made at the end of the 19th century. Using this design, the case appears thin even when a complex mechanism is added. We also improved the details so that the mechanism can be seen." I am a big fan of Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it cannot be denied that the case design was too flat, especially in the case of complex systems.
"In the past, we focused on the movement, but that's not the case anymore. The design team pays attention to the visibility of the dial and the shape of the case. If you use the design well, you can make the case look thin. But it takes just as much time as developing the movement." However, to be honest, he was worried about the Duomètre, which incorporates a completely new shape, until it was completed.
"Of course, we can now do simulations with 3D tools. But we still didn't know whether the bomb-shaped dome glass or the finish of the dial would turn out as we specified. We were really pleased when the finished product exceeded our expectations."
The 2024 Duometre is essentially an improved version of the existing model, but it wouldn't have been possible without the company's ongoing investment.
"We have continued to invest heavily in tools and R&D to improve the quality of our exteriors, laboratories, and prototypes. We will also be changing our communication in the future. It is important for us to show that Jaeger-LeCoultre is a historic Maison."
