This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2024. This time, we will introduce the models selected by Yasuhito Shibuya, a watch journalist and author of the column "Useful!? Watch Industry Chat" on webChronos. What is Shibuya's selection, which he describes as "not just flattery, there are so many great watches"?
1st place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Petite Seconde"
This simple watch embodies the philosophy of "quiet luxury" born from the fusion of Michel Parmigiani's respect for watch culture cultivated through the restoration of classic timepieces and Guido Terreni's refined taste.
Manual winding (Cal. 780). 27 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KRG or Pt950 (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 8.8mm). 8,206,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
2st place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Model"
This new generation 9SA movement is the first to feature a hand-wound caliber, a focus on the "flavor," "sound," and beautiful finish of a hand-wound movement, with a newly designed "retreat-style kohaze" (retreat-style kohaze) motif based on the wagtail, the city bird of Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, where the watch is manufactured, marking a new frontier for Grand Seiko.
Manual winding (Cal. 9SA4). 47 jewels. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. Brilliant hard titanium case (diameter 38.6 mm, thickness 9.95 mm). Water resistant for everyday use. 1,529,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617
3rd Place: Audemars Piguet "Remaster 02 Automatic"
I was amazed to see such a cool model existed in the 1960s, not the 1970s. I was captivated by the sharp, cool, geometric design and color scheme reminiscent of modern art or contemporary architecture, as well as the beauty of the hairline finish.
Automatic movement (Cal. 7129). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 52 hours. 18K sand gold case (41mm wide, 9.7mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. 6,820,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
4th place: TAG Heuer "TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph"
This avant-garde complicated chronograph was created under the overall direction of Carol Casapi, a genius engineer who is considered a treasure of the Swiss watchmaking world, and who has worked for Ulysse Nardin, Cartier, and other companies, and is currently TAG Heuer's movement director.
Automatic movement (Cal. TH81-00). 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve: approximately 65 hours. Ti case (diameter 41mm, thickness 15.2mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan TAG Heuer Tel. 03-5635-7030
5. Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
This is the sportiest and most daring model in the trilogy, featuring the first perpetual calendar chronograph movement from a manufacture caliber, released to commemorate the 140th anniversary of the company's founding. If you prefer a more classic design, we recommend the other models.
Automatic winding (Cal. B19). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 44mm, thickness 15.35mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 7,777,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707
General comment
Suddenly, I choseThe "Top 5" was published on April 24th, right after "Watches & Wonders 2024"I apologize for the fact that my top five choices are not the above. At the time, I chose complicated watches from IWC, Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Hermès, as well as jewelry watches from Cartier, as "watches that are full of dreams and surprises."
Why the "best five"? It's not a compliment, but because there are so many wonderful watches. What's more, new watches are released almost every month outside of watch fairs. That's why I feel it would be unfair to the makers if I didn't make a top five in each category, or around the top 20 overall.
I chose simple hand-wound watches from Parmigiani Fleurier and Grand Seiko, as well as Audemars Piguet's remastered model, which I fell in love with at first sight for its modern sculptural design, considering that the latest smartwatches this fall have become a recommended item for everyone.
At this point, the value of mechanical watches lies in their pure mechanism, similar to that of a "big single" motorcycle, or a large-displacement single-cylinder bike.
From that perspective, I have narrowed it down to these three watches: the "Piaget Andy Warhol," which marks the finale of Piaget's 150th anniversary, and Credor's "Credor 50th Anniversary Locomotive Limited Edition." There's also Chopard's "LUC XPS Forest Green." And finally, Patek Philippe's "Golden Ellipse." And while it wasn't released this year, the Otsuka Low-Tech "No. 6," which won the GPHG (Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix), would also fall into this category.
The remaining two watches, TAG Heuer's split-seconds chronograph and Breitling's perpetual calendar chronograph, are also noteworthy new releases that symbolize the "serious commitment to chronographs and complicated watches" shown for the first time in a long time by both companies, whose forte is mechanical chronographs. Additionally, Breitling will gift purchasers of these models a copy of the history book "Breitling: 140 Years in 140 Stories," which is filled with 140 historical episodes and will reveal new charms about the brand. As an editor whose job is to create books, this is another attraction I couldn't miss.
Selector Profile
Shibuya Yasuhito
As an editor of a product information magazine, he began covering Geneva and Basel in 1995. He has been busy as both an editor and writer, and before he knew it, 2019 was his 25th year. He is currently planning, covering, editing, and writing about not only smartwatches, but also all kinds of things and events other than watches.
