In this project, journalists and other prominent figures in the watch industry were asked to choose their top five watches released in 2024. This time, we will introduce the five watches selected by Gressive Editor-in-Chief Masaharu Nabata. While he chose his watches based on his personal preference for "simple and basic," these types of watches have been gaining popularity in recent years. The five watches are not ranked.
Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Petite Seconde"
In recent years, the watchword for high-end brands has been "quiet luxury." This simple, high-quality model embodies this concept. The matte dial features the logo and discreet indices. The matching nubuck-finish crocodile strap exudes elegance.
Manual winding (Cal. 780). 27 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KRG or Pt950 (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 8.8mm). 18KRG model: 7,095,000 yen. Pt950 model: 8,206,000 yen (both including tax). (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
Yema Navygraf Marine National CMM.10
It was also selected as the "French Watch of the Year 2024," so I wonder why it isn't more popular in Japan. It's simple and beautiful, equipped with a self-winding manufacture caliber, and reasonably priced. Everyone, let's broaden our horizons.
Automatic winding (Cal. CMM.10). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. SS case (diameter 39 mm, thickness 11 mm). 300 m water resistant. 309,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Yema Japan Tel. 03-5875-8810
Seiko Presage "Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration Limited Edition Model"
This is a classic yet modern model based on the design of Japan's first wristwatch, the Laurel, featuring an automatic movement and an enamel dial. There is also a "SEIKO Brand 100th Anniversary Hattori Kintaro Limited Edition Model" with a white dial. I hope this becomes a standard item.
Automatic winding (Cal. 6R5H). 24 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 35mm, thickness 12.3mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide (250 in Japan). 312,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
This is an amazing piece with a black ceramic case, a manufacture caliber, and a reasonable price tag. What's more, it's Master Chronometer certified, boasting not only excellent timekeeping accuracy but also ultra-magnetic resistance, so there's nothing to complain about.
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5602-1U). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Black ceramic case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 200m. 718,300 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Rolex Japan / Tudor Tel. 0120-929-570
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Upcycled
We live in an age where watchmaking is often stifled by SDGs, sustainability, ethics, and fair trade, but this model perfectly captures this trend and, by using a dial made from recovered and recycled PET, combines individuality and artistic beauty, making it a "symbol of the times."
Automatic (Cal. Oris 400). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 5 days. Stainless steel case (diameter 43.5 mm). Water resistant to 300 m. (Inquiries) Oris Japan Tel. 03-6260-6876
General comment
The post-COVID-5 watch bubble has burst, and enthusiasts' tastes are apparently changing. Put simply, interest seems to be shifting from established, well-known brands to niche microbrands and independent brands. While I agree, I chose these five models without giving much thought to the current social climate, simply asking myself, "What would I want if I were to buy something?" As I've said in every watch ranking, I generally like simple and basic things, which is why I chose them this way. These days, I can't help but think, perhaps presumptuously, that the times are finally beginning to recognize their appeal. I predict that we'll likely see even more small-diameter, simpler models from various manufacturers and that they will become popular. Of course, I won't take responsibility if my prediction proves incorrect.
Even so, everyone I meet often says to me, "Watches have become more expensive." However, this is due to the weak yen, economic growth overseas (especially in Asia), and global inflation, so there's no point in complaining. The skill of a watch enthusiast is shown in how they can find an attractive model that is both affordable and in line with their own means, and I feel strongly that it is our responsibility to offer such a model. As always, everything is on the same level, no rankings.
Selector Profile
Nahata politics
He is the editor-in-chief of Gressive, a website introducing authorized retailers of brand-name watches, and a leading watch journalist in Japan. He has been covering large-scale Swiss watch exhibitions since 1994, and his insights are unparalleled in the industry. In addition to writing feature articles for the Japanese edition of Chronos, he also serves as a judge for the "Chronos Top 10 Ranking" at the end of the issue. In recent years, he has switched from being a dog lover to a cat lover. He is the co-author of "The Story of Cartier Watches."
