This project involves watch professionals selecting the top five new watches released in 2024. This time, we will introduce the five selected by Yutaka Fukuda, a writer and editor known as Rock Fukuda. Fukuda proclaimed the historic calendar watch, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, to be the winner! It is also noteworthy that all four watches except for the IWC were made in Japan.
Winner: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
This secular perpetual calendar model is the pinnacle of the evolution of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. And what's more, its evolution—the addition of just eight parts to the existing perpetual calendar mechanism—is typical of IWC, and is simply wonderful. It's a masterpiece that will go down in history, without a doubt a winner! I wonder if I could buy a more affordable version with a stainless steel case (although maybe even then it's impossible).
Automatic movement (Cal. 52640). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 168 hours. Pt case (diameter 44.4 mm, thickness 14.9 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868
1st place: Otsuka Lowtec "No. 6"
This is a globally popular model from a globally popular Japanese micro brand. That aside, I like the design, which is reminiscent of the meter on the back of King Crimson's "Red" album cover. What's more, the fact that the spring used to reset the retrograde hand is a guitar's first string (an Ernie Ball Super Slinky, no less) is a real hit. I'm seriously considering buying it.
Automatic winding (Cal. 9015 + in-house jumping hour module). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. SS case (diameter 42.6 mm, thickness 11.8 mm). 440,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Otsuka Lowtech https://otsuka-lotec.com
2th place: NAOYA HIDA & Co. "NH TYPE 5A"
This is NAOYA HIDA & Co.'s first square-shaped model. The movement is a reworked version of the former Peuzeau (now ETA) Cal. 7001, and the square case is a perfect fit for a square movement. And the fact that a large movement is housed in a small case is fantastic. Mr. Tobita's unique attention to the winding feel and sound is also wonderful. If I could buy it, I would definitely buy it.
Manual winding (Cal. 2524SS). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (length 33mm, width 26mm, thickness 9.1mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3.3 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) NAOYA HIDA & Co.naoyahidawatch.com
3st place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Model"
This is one of the hottest items at this year's Watches and Wonders. The Cal. 9SA4, a hand-wound version of the masterpiece Cal. 9SA5, has a pleasant feel and sound when winding, and the bird-like movement of the kohaze on the back is a delight to watch. And what's even better is that this watch has a large movement housed in a small case. I really want one.
Manual winding (Cal. 9SA4). 47 jewels. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. Brilliant hard titanium case (diameter 38.6 mm, thickness 9.95 mm). Water resistant for everyday use. 1,529,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617
4th place: Citizen "CITIZEN Brand Watch 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch"
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the release of the "CITIZEN" watch, and this limited edition commemorates the occasion. The main highlight is the newly designed hand-wound Cal. 0270, based on the masterpiece Cal. 0200 movement. This limited edition model is likely already sold out, but I'm looking forward to the next new watch, which will likely be equipped with this hand-wound movement. I really want one.
Manual winding (Cal. 0270). 18 jewels. 28,800 vph. Ti case (diameter 43.5mm, thickness 13.4mm). Water resistant for everyday use. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Sold out. (Inquiries) Citizen Customer Watch Consultation Center Tel. 0120-78-4807
General comment
With the exception of the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, all of the watches are Japanese brands, but there's no particular reason for this. As always, I just picked the models I wanted, and it just happened to be that way.
In addition to these five, I would also like to own (but probably can't afford) the Cartier Privee Tortue monopusher chronograph, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/1, and the Piaget Polo 79.
I'm also very interested in the Patek Philippe Cubitus, but I haven't had a chance to touch it yet, so I left it out of my selection. I'm sure it would be a wonderful model to see and touch (like all Patek Philippe watches). But I'm sure I won't be able to buy it either.
As you may well know, the winning IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar received the highest award, the Golden Hands Award, at this year's GPHG. It is also certified by the Guinness World Records as the "Most Precise Moon Phase Wristwatch."
The first place winner, the Otsuka Low-Tech No. 6, also won the GPHG Challenge Watch Award. Founder and CEO Jiro Katayama was selected as a Contemporary Master Craftsman last November.
Selector Profile
福田豊
Writer and editor. Originally an architect, he moved into publishing through a series of unexpected events. After working in advertising sales and the editorial department of Esquire Japan, he is now in his current position. He writes about men's lifestyles in general, including fashion, watches, cars, and travel, for magazines such as LEON, ENGINE, GQ, and Chronos Japan, as well as on the web. He is in charge of watches for the web magazine FORZA STYLE. He is currently appearing in the video series "Rock Fukuda's Watch Spirit!"https://www.instagram.com/fukuda1959/?hl=ja
