The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2024, the watch industry's new product trade fair. This article, which was featured in the magazine as a "revolution in watch exteriors," is now republished on webChronos. This time, we look back at Patek Philippe's announced models. While they were more subdued than usual, each one was flawless. What are the company's announced models?
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Chronos Japan Edition (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
A Look Back at Patek Philippe's 2024 Model Releases
The 2024 Watches & Wonders show featured understated new releases from each company. Long-established Patek Philippe was no exception, focusing primarily on cosmetic changes to existing models. That said, the new lineup of dress watches remains impressive. The Golden Ellipse, with its new bracelet, is sure to have a major impact on other companies exploring new directions in the dress watch market.
This year's focus is on exteriors, with the highlight being the "Golden Ellipse"
At first glance, this new model comes with a Milanese-style bracelet. The good news is that there is no need to cut the bracelet to adjust the size. By increasing the number of links, the undulating feel of the Milanese is recreated. Although the price is high, the finish of the interior and exterior is unparalleled. Automatic winding (Cal. 240). 27 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18KRG case (39.5mm x 34.5mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 9,510,000 yen (tax included).
During Watches & Wonders 2024, a Patek Philippe representative stated to Swiss media that "the way our new releases have been up until now has been abnormal." This no doubt reflects the company's view, and indeed, Patek Philippe's new releases are more subdued than previous ones. However, as you would expect from a company that strives to perfect its exteriors, each product is flawless.
The Golden Ellipse, with its new bracelet, is understated but eye-catching. At first glance, it looks Milanese-style, but it's actually made up of 361 individual links. Therefore, while it retains the Milanese style, the size can be adjusted by removing the links, resulting in a V-shaped link arrangement known internally as "Victory." Philippe Barat, head of development at Patek Philippe, explained, "This was a suggestion from Wellendorff in Pforzheim, which produces Patek Philippe bracelets." Despite the adjustable links, the watch offers a comfortable fit comparable to the Milanese. The larger links also make it suitable for casual wear. It's no surprise that Barat emphasized that the watch "goes with any outfit."
Also pay attention to "World Time" and "Annual Calendar"
This is the regular model version of the World Time with Pointer Date, which was unveiled at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in 2023. The World Timer with Calendar, which corresponds to the date line, is quite complex, but still retains a clicky yet light operation feel. Despite the addition of a date display, legibility remains excellent. Of particular note is the pointer date hand. Because a satisfactory finish could not be achieved with sapphire crystal, it was deliberately molded using organic glass. Automatic winding (Cal. 240HU C). 37 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 40mm, thickness 11.57mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 12,130,000 yen (tax included).
(Right) Patek Philippe "Perpetual Calendar with Retrograde Date Display, Rare Handcraft" Ref. 5160/500
This is a different color from an existing model. As you'd expect from Patek Philippe, which specializes in cases, the hunter case back has an extremely precise feel. Also, by omitting the black coloring from the exterior engraving, the watch is less imposing than the 18KWG model. The base movement has been changed to the latest Cal. 26-330. Automatic winding (Cal. 26330 S QR). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 38mm, thickness 11.81mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 31,990,000 yen (tax included).
The "World Time" with date display, which was introduced at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo (2023) held in Japan last year, has now become a regular feature. The newly created carbon-patterned dial may be a matter of personal taste, but it is easy to read.
The material is different from the 5396. The blue-gray dial and the indices adorned with 0.26 ct baguette-cut diamonds remain the same as before. However, the unification of the color scheme to white has clearly improved the overall look of the watch. What's clever is the way the diamonds are fixed in the indices. While the claws on the top and bottom are the same as in Rolex and other watches, by narrowing the lower base to the very limit, their presence is barely noticeable. This is a very sophisticated dress watch. Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 S QA LU 24H). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18K white gold case (38.5mm diameter, 11.2mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. 10,060,000 yen (tax included).
(Right) Patek Philippe "Inline Perpetual Calendar" Ref. 5236P
This is a variation on the masterpiece 5236 dial. High legibility is achieved through the extremely large calendar disc. However, the axis supporting the day and month discs has been changed to a bearing-supported one, and a shock-resistant mechanism has been added to enhance practicality. This model is unique to Patek Philippe's current pursuit of legibility. The movement also boasts a 20% increase in mainspring torque compared to the previous 31 series. The 11.07mm case thickness is also appropriate. Automatic winding (Cal. 31-260 PS QL). 51 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Pt case (41.3mm diameter, 11.07mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 2239 million yen (tax included).
Personally, I would like to praise the new addition to the "Annual Calendar 5396" series, featuring an 18K White Gold case with baguette-cut diamond indices. The 18K Gold case with diamond indices was discontinued with the release of this model. While the indices are significantly shorter than standard dials, the design balance has been significantly improved by aligning the length of the date display and indices. In terms of design alone, this model is perhaps the best of the 5396 series.
Surprising new model
While this model may seem different from the previous model, it has a slimmer design. The bezel has been slightly narrowed to reduce the bulkiness often associated with the Nautilus's complicated design. The large aperture and bright blue-gray opaline dial give the watch a very different impression. While a change in case would normally result in a change in reference, this model remains the same as the previous model. The 18KWG case makes it a fairly heavy watch, but the wearing comfort is not as bad as you might expect. Automatic movement (Cal. CH 28-520 C/522). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18KWG case (diameter [10-4 o'clock] 40.5mm, thickness 12.2mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 12.5 million yen (tax included).
What surprised me was the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph. While it might seem like a different color version of an existing model, the bezel has been slightly narrowed to widen the dial opening. This likely reflects Thierry Stern's preference for thin bezels. The balance is exquisite, making the watch appear slightly slimmer without interfering with the Nautilus's robust shape. Because of the heavy 18KWG movement, it doesn't feel as comfortable as the Ref. 5711 or Ref. 5712, but the thick strap makes it very comfortable.
A Perfect Patek Philippe Model for 2024
A variation added to the 5520P. This model combines an 18KRG case with heat-treated 18KWG push button tubes. The alarm, which sounds with a gong like a minute repeater, remains the same as before. A safety mechanism is included, so there is little risk of accidentally damaging it. This is an excellent model. However, I don't like the luminous hands and indexes, which have been deliberately changed to green. Automatic winding (Cal. AL 30-660 SC FUS). 52 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 52 hours. 18KRG x 18KWG case (diameter 42.2mm, thickness 11.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 41,040,000 yen (tax included).
I have very little to say about the current Patek Philippe. Since the late 2010s, the polishing of the case has been further improved, and the color of the blue-gray PVD dial is exceptionally good. The lacquer gradient dial also has no visible borders. Despite using ceramic bearings, the rotor is quiet, and thanks to the silicon balance spring, it is also highly antimagnetic. If I had to point out one thing that bothers me, it would be the denim-patterned leather strap. It's surprising that it looks like denim but is actually leather, and this material will likely not damage the gold case. However, it's not my favorite.
Anyway, this year was another solid year for Patek Philippe. I have high hopes for the second half of the year.
This is a model that I personally find very appealing. It simply removes the precious stones from the previous model, but the result is a well-rounded travel watch. The independent hour hand adjustment function and the home time day/night display at 6 o'clock are also practical. However, the "HOME" inscription is perhaps unnecessary. It's perfect for anyone looking for a practical travel watch. Quartz movement (Cal. E 23-250 SFUS 24H). 18KRG case (diameter [10-4 o'clock] 38.8mm, thickness 8.77mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 560 million yen (tax included).
(Right) Patek Philippe "Aquanaut Travel Time" Ref. 5164
This is a different material from the 5164 released in 2011. The movement has also been updated to the latest Cal. 26-330 SC FUS. Despite the change in material, the watch feels excellent to wear. However, it is a shame that the water resistance of the Aquanaut as a whole has been lowered to 3 ATM from this time on. Automatic (Cal. 26-330 S CFUS). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KWG case (diameter [10-4 o'clock] 40.8mm, thickness 10.2mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 9,980,000 yen (tax included).
