Based on Breitling's annual sales data, we present the top 5 most popular models for 2024. This time, we'll be focusing on men's models. Breitling claims to provide "instruments for professionals," and is particularly adept at chronographs. This year's ranking is dominated by models equipped with chronographs, a result of the brand's strengths and the expectations of its fans coming together.
Text by Shinichi Sato
[Article published on January 22, 2024]
No. 5: Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Japan Edition
Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41.0 mm, thickness 13.6 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Japan only. 1,353,000 yen (tax included).
The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Japan Edition, a Japan-only model that elegantly recreates a stoic professional model, came in fifth place.
The Navitimer is a watch that strongly reflects Breitling's history of manufacturing aircraft instruments and contributing to the aviation industry since the 1930s. A representative collection features a model with a rotating slide rule built into the rotating bezel, allowing for calculations necessary during flight, such as average speed, distance traveled, and fuel consumption. This is because, when the first Navitimer model was released in the 1950s, the highly convenient instruments we see today were not yet developed. The Navitimer, with its many functions to assist pilots, was even adopted as the official watch of the American Pilots Association (AOPA). While the Navitimer was originally intended for professional use, its iconic styling and multifunctional, high-performance capabilities have made it a popular choice for a wide audience, and it continues to be so to this day.
This elegant Japan-limited model, released in 2024, features an ice-blue mother-of-pearl dial. Each piece is unique, and the organically changing expression of the mother-of-pearl combined with the ice-blue hue creates a refreshing sparkle reminiscent of a sea of clouds or a sparkling snowfield seen from an airplane window.
No. 4: Chronomat B01 42 Japan Edition
Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42.0 mm, thickness 15.1 mm). Water resistant to 200 m. Japan exclusive. 1,386,000 yen (tax included).
Coming in fourth place is the Chronomat B01 42 Japan Edition, a Japan-only model of the Chronomat. The Chronomat is a core Breitling collection that has been popular for many years. The current styling was introduced in 2020, and its base is a model produced in 1983 for the Italian Air Force's acrobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori.
Before 2020, the Chronomat tended to be large, with case diameters of 44mm or so, but this size was left to the Super Chronomat B01 44, which was changed to a 42mm case diameter. Breitling took this opportunity to redefine the Chronomat as an "all-purpose watch," giving it functionality and styling that could be worn in a variety of situations, from professional settings to casual wear and even with a suit.
This Japan-exclusive model reflects the current position of the Chronomat. Its white mother-of-pearl dial and anthracite subdials create a monotone look. The muted yet ever-changing mother-of-pearl and the gold-colored "B" logo add elegance to this model. Meanwhile, in terms of functionality, it boasts the self-winding chronograph movement Cal. 01, a COSC chronometer certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, and 200m water resistance, making it an impeccable model for professional use.
No. 3: Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
Automatic movement (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41.0mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,061,500 yen (tax included).
Coming in third place was the ice blue Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43. The current Navitimer's exterior was redesigned in 2022, making it even more appealing. While the movement remains the same as the previous model, the Cal. 01, the dial and case have been given a more three-dimensional feel. The dial features a bombé dial with a bulging center, and the rotating bezel is concave with a concave interior, creating a sense of height. The dome shape of the crystal has been emphasized, and the case middle has been made relatively thin, adding a "classic" touch. The AOPA wing logo has been relocated to the 12 o'clock position, just like in previous classic models, further enhancing the classic feel. The bracelet that accompanies this watch has also been modernized to enhance the integration of the bowstring and case, resulting in a model that combines classic and contemporary styles.
The 2022 update saw the addition of green, copper, and the ice blue dial color of this model. This model can be said to combine the stoic professional aspects of the Navitimer with a modern, elegant side that is in line with the contemporary fashion scene.
No. 2: Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
Automatic movement (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41.0mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 1,061,500 yen (tax included).
Coming in second place is the black model of the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43. The Navitimer currently comes in a lineup of 41mm models (ranked fifth), this model, and the 43mm model (ranked third), as well as a 46mm model. This model's black base with silver subdials and a rotating slide rule is available in all sizes, and Breitling has made this color its main focus, making it synonymous with the Navitimer among users, likely contributing to its popularity in second place.
This black dial was updated in 2022, changing from a plated finish to a lacquered finish. The precision of the printing was an appealing feature of the previous plated finish, but this model maintains that precision even with the paint, and what is noteworthy is that the use of lacquer enhances the color of the black, making it even more appealing.
1st Place: Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaut
Manual winding (Cal. B02). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel and platinum case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 200 pieces in Japan. Price: 1,595,000 yen (tax included).
Taking first place is the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, a Japan-only model of the special Navitimer Cosmonaute. The Cosmonaute was the first Swiss-made wristwatch chronograph to fly in space, worn by Scott Carpenter on his spaceflight aboard the Mercury-Atlas 7 on May 24, 1962, and is an iconic watch not only for Breitling but also for watchmaking history. Its distinctive feature is that it is based on the standard Navitimer but has been modified to display 24 hours in order to distinguish between day and night in the darkness of space.
This special model, limited to 200 pieces in Japan, was released to mark Breitling's 140th anniversary. The dial is finished in Stratos (meaning stratosphere) gray, a color that evokes Scott Carpenter's achievements, and is coated with luminous paint that evokes a burnt, aged look, adding a vintage touch. Furthermore, the platinum bezel gives it a special shine.
Another point that fans will be happy to know is that, like the original model, this watch is equipped with a manual-winding chronograph movement. The movement, Cal. B02, is manual winding and does not have a rotor, and one of the charms of this watch is that the mechanism and various finishes can be viewed from the case back. The case back is also engraved with the date of the Mercury-Atlas 7 flight, the phrase "First Swiss wristwatch in space," and "ONE OF 200," indicating the rarity of this watch.
It was only natural that this piece, which has its roots in Breitling's backbone, which has made significant contributions to the aviation industry, and the great achievements it has made within that industry, would take first place this year.
