A project in which watch professionals select the top five new watches released in 2024. This time, watch journalist Tetsuo Shinoda, who will turn 50 next year, chose the 18K gold watches that he thinks look great at his age. All of the models are gorgeous, made from 18K gold, from the case to the bracelet. Among them, the Patek Philippe "Golden Ellipse" Ref. 5738/1 took first place, thanks to the exceptionally well-finished bracelet.
1. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
I was surprised at how much the impression changed just by changing the bracelet. The bracelet's intricate craftsmanship is wonderful, but its smooth feel is impressive. It's a watch that is pleasing to the eye and the touch, and it's full gold. It's the best.
Automatic winding (Cal. 240). 27 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KRG case (39.5mm x 34.5mm, 5.9mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 951 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109
2nd place: Cartier "Panthère de Cartier"
The watch has been enlarged while retaining the beautiful form that is characteristic of Cartier. I fell in love at first sight with the presence of both the case and bracelet, both made of 18K yellow gold. The movement is quartz, but since it's not the type of watch to wear every day, that's actually fine.
Quartz movement. 18K yellow gold case (42mm x 31mm, 6.71mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. 4,725,600 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Cartier Customer Service Center Tel. 0120-1847-00
3rd place: Rolex "Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea"
While many of today's diver's watches use titanium cases for functionality and comfort, this model is the complete opposite. It has the highest specs in terms of functionality, but it's also extremely heavy and luxurious. I like that contradiction.
Automatic winding (Cal. 3235). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18K yellow gold case (diameter 44 mm, thickness 17.7 mm). Water resistant to 3900 m.
4. Tudor Black Bay 58 18K
It may be rude to say that this is not what you would expect from a prestigious brand of tough watches, but the volume of this 18k full gold x diver's watch is overwhelming. Both the case and bracelet have a hairline finish, and the matte texture gives it a Tudor-like feel.
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18K yellow gold case (diameter 39mm, thickness 12.7mm). 200m water resistant. 4,488,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Rolex Japan / Tudor Tel. 0120-929-570
5. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic
Green dials are popular, but I think gold is actually the best way to bring out this color. The Overseas has become quite familiar, and the combination of deep green and bright gold is simply stunning.
Automatic winding (Cal. 5100). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.69mm). Water resistant to 15 bar. 8,976,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755
General comment
It's flashy, but not casual.
Getting older means gaining experience. It may be that age allows you to take on challenges that you previously avoided.
As I approach the milestone of turning 50 next year, I'm suddenly drawn to gold watches. And instead of chic white gold, I'm looking at gorgeous gold materials like yellow, red, and pink, with the case and bracelet made of the same material. This is the model that's catching my eye.
Perhaps it's because I was looking at watches from that perspective, but this year there were a lot of full gold models standing out.
What's more, the appeal is that you can fully enjoy the individuality of a gorgeous gold watch, with watches that feature elaborate bracelet designs like Patek Philippe's Golden Ellipse, play with size like Cartier's Panthère de Cartier, or use elaborate colors like the popular green.
Full gold watches are often described as flashy or ostentatious, but if you have the experience and style to pull them off, they will look great. I would rather be an adult who can wear such a watch with style.
A watch can also tell a story about you. As you grow, the watch you choose can change too. A gold watch is a watch that makes you shine as an adult.
Selector Profile
Tetsuo Shinoda
Born in 1975, he worked in the editorial department of Kodansha's Hot Dog Press before going independent. He writes a wide range of watch articles, from serious to casual, for a variety of publications, including watch magazines, fashion magazines, business magazines, newspapers, and the web. In addition to his work, he is also attending the Watch Course (Career School Watchmaker Course) at Hiko Mizuno Jewelry College, a watchmaking school, where he is learning about watch theory, structure, and disassembly and assembly techniques. He is a regular judge for the Top 10 Rankings published by Chronos Japan. In 2020, he published "Choosing a Watch as a Cultural Education" (Kobunsha Shinsho).
