The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2024, the watch industry's new product exhibition. This article, which was featured in the magazine as a "Revolution in Exteriors," is republished on webChronos. This time, we'll be looking at Chanel, a non-specialist watch manufacturer that has launched a number of outstanding models both inside and out.
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine), Yukiya Suzuki (this magazine): Interview and text
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan),Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Chronos Japan Edition (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
A look back at Chanel's 2024 watches
Mademoiselle Chanel once revolutionized the fashion world. Having inherited that philosophy, Chanel is now a respected presence in the world of luxury watches, or haute horlogerie. In addition to the already highly acclaimed quality of its exteriors, the brand has also focused on developing its own movements, earning it a unique position even among specialized watch manufacturers. Chanel's movements are always attracting attention, and its new 2024 collection is a collection of masterpieces both in terms of interior and exterior.
Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie: The Encounter of Two Worlds
This automaton is made possible by the in-house Caliber 6 movement, which took approximately five years to develop. It's not just Mademoiselle who moves; the torso, attached to the right by the jacket fabric, also moves up and down at the same time. Automatic winding (Cal. 6). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Highly resistant matte black ceramic, stainless steel, and 18K white gold case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide.
This year's theme for Chanel is "couture," the house's roots. Arnaud Chastain, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, stated, "We focused on the house's roots, namely couture, the origins of Gabrielle Chanel's profession." The most symbolic example of this is the house's first automaton, a comical yet cute illustration of Mademoiselle dancing with scissors. Many enthusiasts were surely surprised that Chanel would release an automaton. What's more, it's equipped with a movement developed in-house, making it even more special.
However, it's not just the in-house movements that are evolving. Chanel is constantly improving the quality of its exteriors, including the dials and cases. This automaton also features a case and bracelet made of matte black ceramic, which is difficult to work with, and the edges of the links are even polished, a testament to its meticulous craftsmanship. The quality of the dial, which has a three-dimensional structure due to the movement of multiple parts, is also evident in the illustrations and other details, even when viewed up close as in the image above. This excellence, demonstrated not only in the top-of-the-line model in the collection, but also in other new releases.
The dial features a realistic depiction of Mademoiselle in a black and white suit. Behind her, a gold-colored disc depicts couture motifs such as a torso, pincushion, and hanger, rotating once every five minutes. This new watch will keep you entertained. Automatic (Cal. 12.1). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph.
Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Highly resistant black ceramic and stainless steel case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. Limited edition.
(Right) Chanel "J12 Couture"
The world of couture is where Mademoiselle, who considered herself a seamstress, began her career. This stylish model is based on the tools that are essential to an atelier, with the hour and minute hands modeled after scissors, the second hand a sewing needle, and even the bezel modeled after a tape measure. COSC-certified chronometer. Automatic (Cal. 12.1). 28 jewels. 28,800 vibrations/min.
Movement/hour. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Highly resistant black ceramic and stainless steel case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 200m. Limited edition.
Whether it's the scissors-shaped hour and minute hands and needle-shaped second hand seen on the "J12 Couture," the realistic Mademoiselle on the "Mademoiselle J12 Couture," or the gorgeous dial decoration with a pincushion pin motif, these new models give the strong impression of having a higher level of quality, with both the movement and exterior having been refined with an even more rigorous aesthetic sense because they are not specialized in watches.
The new "Mademoiselle Privée Pincushion Cuff Couture" is inspired by a pincushion, an essential tool for seamstresses. The dial design, inspired by the countless pins stuck in a pincushion, is decorated with gold, diamonds, and pearls, resembling fireworks. Quartz movement. 18K Yellow Gold x Titanium case (55mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 5 pieces worldwide.
(Right) Chanel "J12 White Star Couture"
This model also has a torso motif. However, it is not simply a two-tone color. To showcase ceramics expertise, the stones are baguette-cut like precious stones and set into the bracelet. Crafted by gem-setters using the exact same techniques as high jewellery, only 12 pieces are available. Automatic winding (Cal. 12.1). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Highly resistant baguette-cut ceramic and stainless steel case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. Limited to 12 pieces worldwide.
Interview with Arnaud Chastin
This year, Chanel has put the house's roots in couture at the forefront. While there have been previous shows that have highlighted Gabrielle Chanel, it was unexpected to see such a focus.
"Gabrielle Chanel is not a timekeeper, she is our guardian."
Born in France in 1979, he graduated from the Strait School of Design and worked for a French watch and jewelry brand. In May 2013, he joined Chanel in his current position. He has been involved in the design of watches such as the Première, J12, Boyfriend, Code Coco, and Monsieur de Chanel. The watches he has designed have won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix three years in a row in 2017, 2018, and 2019.
Arnaud Chastan says, "Gabrielle Chanel and couture are in our DNA. However, this is not the first time I have been inspired by couture. Three years ago, I created a collection based on the bon motif, and Premiere, which was launched in 1987, also incorporated bag chains into its designs. Couture has always been with us." However, behind this, his admiration for Gabrielle Chanel is evident. "I am always deeply impressed when I visit her atelier on Rue Cambon. There is a graphic world and a special creative energy. It is a completely different world, and I can draw energy from it. I really love this place." It was the sewing tools that caught his eye.
"I was also fascinated by the tools in the atelier, like scissors and pincushions." However, there is a reason why she chose sewing tools from among the various "legacies" of Chanel. "If you look at the archives of Gabrielle Chanel, you will see that she wore a pincushion. And she wore scissors with ribbons around her neck, like jewelry. I think she played with tools like these. So I created three necklaces with sewing tools as their motif."
This year, they also added a moving automaton of Gabrielle Chanel, which is quite elaborate, with her and her torso moving.
"My job is to come up with ideas. I wanted to add an automaton. I imagine the Swiss workshop engineers had a hard time. I think the key is to find a technical solution and respect time. Time is your best friend." Incidentally, Chastan also made some slight changes to the exterior of the J12, which appears to be a timeless classic, with this piece. He added chamfers to the matte case to give it a glossy finish and emphasize the shape.
"In the world of luxury watches, it's important to be different. Different savoir-faire is the same in ceramics. That's why I rounded the edges of the J12 case. I love light, and I think it also accentuates the precision of the J12."
But Gabriel himself didn't make the watches, so what does it mean to make a watch for Chanel anyway?
"It's true that she never made a watch. But I think Gabrielle and time are connected through creativity and stories. She uses emoticons, and sometimes she has a classic feel. Gabrielle Chanel is not a timekeeper. She is our guardian.
I will."
