[End of Year Special] Looking back on the turbulent year of 2024 with Hirota's key topics. The best of the year is...

2024.12.27

Before we knew it, it was already December. 2024 is almost over. Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan/webChronos, looks back on the year through interesting topics from each month. You'll surely be reminded of all the things you've forgotten in your busy daily life. So, let's take a look at Hirota's important topics!

Editor-in-Chief Hirota

Masamasa Hirota (Kronos Japan): Text
Text by Masayuki Hirota(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 27, 2023]

Hirota's Important Topics for the Month

Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan/webChronos, picks out various things that happened in 2024, month by month. Let's look back on the year.

January: Major personnel changes at LVMH

 On January 1st, Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, became head of the LVMH Group's watch division. Instead, Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith, was appointed as the new CEO of TAG Heuer, and Benoît de Clercq was appointed as the new CEO of Zenith. Tornare's appointment seemed like a natural fit, but he became CEO of Hublot in September. With this appointment, the LVMH Group declared that watches and jewelry would be its next growth engines.

フレデリック・アルノー

Frédéric Arnault has been appointed as the new head of the LVMH Group's watch division.

February: The Tokematch issue causes a stir, and the Casiotron announcement

 Tokematch, a service where you can borrow a watch and get paid, has been discovered to have never actually provided any service. The company's viable business of selling borrowed watches has finally collapsed. Rumors are that the founder fled to Dubai, where he remains in hiding, causing losses estimated at over 10 billion to 20 billion yen. Will he be arrested? Incidentally, Karitoke, the watch lending service, is extremely healthy. Also this month, Casio is reissuing a limited edition of the Casiotron. This model, with its small size and trendy 1970s design, is sure to become a key pillar of Casio's future.

Casio Casiotron TRN-50-2AJR

Casio "Casiotron TRN-50-2AJR"
The limited edition "Casiotron TRN-50-2AJR" celebrates the 50th anniversary of Casio watches. It faithfully reproduces the original 1974 model, but is packed with the latest technology. BLE radio-controlled solar-powered. Stainless steel case (42.7mm x 39.1mm, 12.3mm thick). 5 ATM water resistance. Limited to 4000 pieces worldwide. Sold out. (Inquiries) Casio Computer Customer Service Tel. 0120-088925

March: Small-sized Fifty Fathoms Automatic

 The watch industry trend is clearly toward smaller and thinner watches. Perhaps without any conscious effort, Blancpain has released a 42.3mm version of the Fifty Fathoms. Incidentally, last year's release was a limited edition in stainless steel. The 2024 model is a regular version in titanium and gold. Previous Fifty Fathoms models used a soft-iron inner case to improve magnetic resistance, but this is no longer necessary thanks to the silicon balance spring. As a result, the Fifty Fathoms has become lighter, and the case has also been made smaller. In my opinion, the new titanium Fifty Fathoms is the best.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

Blancpain "Fifty Fathoms Automatic" (left) Ref. 5010 12B30 B52B
Automatic winding (Cal. 1315). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Ti case (diameter 42.3mm, thickness 14.3mm). 300m water resistant. 1,765,500 yen (tax included).
Blancpain "Fifty Fathoms Automatic" (center) Ref. 5010 12B40 98S
Automatic winding (Cal. 1315). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Ti case (diameter 42.3 mm, thickness 14.3 mm). 300m water resistant. Titanium bracelet: 2,871,000 yen (tax included).
Blancpain "Fifty Fathoms Automatic" (right) Ref. 5010 12B30 98S
12B40 98S automatic movement (Cal. 1315). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. Ti case (diameter 42.3 mm, thickness 14.3 mm). 300m water resistant. Titanium bracelet: 2,871,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Blancpain Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7233

April: Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024

 With the demise of Baselworld, the Geneva watch fair has become even more prominent. Held from April 9th ​​to 15th, the event featured 54 manufacturers. The public days were extended to three days, resulting in a 14% increase in attendance over last year, reaching approximately 49,000. This year, brands like Van Cleef & Arpels, Chanel, and Hermès focused on the high-end, while established watchmakers, perhaps anticipating the economic downturn, focused on recolors of existing models. However, there were many models likely to sell well among enthusiasts in 2024. Cartier's Privée Tortue Monopusher Chronograph is a prime example. Patek Philippe's Golden Ellipse, with its exquisite gold bracelet, also attracted attention. Personally, I was captivated by Cartier's mini model. Despite being clearly intended for women, Cartier released it as a unisex model. The ultra-mini watch trend is certainly gaining traction among a select few.

Patek Philippe New Golden Ellipse 5738/1

Patek Philippe "Golden Ellipse" Ref. 5738/1R-001
Automatic winding (Cal. 240). 27 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. 18KRG case (39.5mm x 34.5mm, 5.9mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 951 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109

May: NH Watch new release, Locomotive release, and TAKANO's return

 Speaking of spring events, the announcement of new NH Watch models is a must-have. Hearing reports of successful or unsuccessful purchases on social media makes me feel like spring has arrived. This year, they released the square-shaped "NH TYPE 5A," along with a unique buckle. Not only is it a well-made watch, but it's also a truly exquisite accessory, with meticulous attention to detail. Also this month, Seiko unveiled the legendary "Locomotive." Not only does it recreate Gerald Genta's original design, but the finish on the bracelet and other components is undoubtedly the best of any Seiko to date. Limited to 200 units in Japan and 100 units overseas, it sold out immediately. It was a bit disappointing, though, to see so many scalpers. And at the end of the month, the legendary TAKANO was resurrected. While you might think it was just a borrowed name, the interior and exterior were both high-quality, with a finish reminiscent of a luxury watch. It's no wonder it sold so well.

NH TYPE 5A

NAOYA HIDA & Co. “NH TYPE 5A”
Manual winding (Cal. 2524SS). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (length 33mm, width 26mm, thickness 9.1mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3.3 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) NAOYA HIDA & Co.naoyahidawatch.com

June: Breitling celebrates its 140th anniversary

 2024 marks Breitling's 140th anniversary. To commemorate the occasion, a vintage watch exhibition was held at the Omotesando Boutique and in Osaka. My humble self, Hirota, also gave a lecture at the event. The three limited edition models released to commemorate the 140th anniversary are especially noteworthy. These gold-cased perpetual calendar chronographs feature an improved version of the Cal. 01 movement as their base movement, as well as a completely newly designed perpetual calendar module. Not only can all calendars be changed simply by turning the crown, but they also feature instantaneous movement, making this perhaps the most sophisticated perpetual calendar currently available.

Breitling 140th Anniversary

(Left) Breitling Premier B19 Datra 42 140th Anniversary Ref. RB19401A1B1P1
Automatic movement (Cal. B19). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18KG case (42mm diameter, 15.6mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price upon request.
(Center) Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary, Ref. RB19301A1G1S1
Automatic movement (Cal. B19). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18KG case (44mm diameter, 15.35mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price upon request.
(Right) Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary, Ref. RB19101A1H1P1
Automatic movement (Cal. B19). 39 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 96 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 43mm, thickness 15.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price enquiries required. (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707

July: King Seiko aims for design

 While King Seiko is popular among enthusiasts, there was no denying that it overlapped with Grand Seiko. As a result, Seiko increased the color variations of its dials, and in July added a new model with a case reminiscent of Genta's "C-Line." It's only natural that Seiko, which has overwhelming competitiveness in dials, would begin to differentiate itself with its exterior. In conjunction with this, Seiko held a King Seiko design exhibition. Watch manufacturers with young designers will undoubtedly thrive.

King Seiko_KS1969

Seiko "King Seiko KS1969" Ref.SDKA017
Automatic winding (Cal. 6L35). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.4 mm, thickness 9.9 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 396,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012.

August: The Promaster's 35th anniversary and Geneva Watch Days

 My favorite Promaster will celebrate its 35th anniversary in 2024. To commemorate this, Citizen has released the "Promaster Eco-Drive Radio-Controlled Watch 35th Anniversary Limited Edition." It features the masterpiece digital-analog Cal. U680, is reasonably priced, and has a beautiful finish. It's a watch that's typical of Citizen, a brand that sticks to its own unique style, but it's a bit large, which is a shame. And at the end of the month, Geneva Watch Days was held. It's organized by Bulgari and Breitling. This year, Blancpain and even Breguet joined the event. The Swatch Group has decided not to participate in the trade fair, but perhaps Geneva Watch Days will be a venue for them? Incidentally, a titanium model of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time was added in August. It's a pretty impressive watch.

Citizen "Promaster SKY Eco-Drive Radio-Controlled Watch 35th Anniversary Limited Edition" Ref. JY8146-54E

Citizen "Promaster SKY Eco-Drive Radio-Controlled Watch 35th Anniversary Limited Edition" Ref. JY8146-54E
Light-powered Eco-Drive (Cal. U680). Runs for approximately 3.5 years on a full charge (with power save activated). Stainless steel case (diameter 45.7mm, thickness 13.8mm). Water resistant to 20 bar. Limited to 5600 pieces worldwide. Price: 121,000 yen (tax included). Discontinued due to limited stock.

September: The global watch market suffers major damage

 In September 2024, the Swiss watch industry saw a sharp decline in both shipment value and volume, particularly in Asia. China was particularly notable, with shipments falling by roughly half in both unit and value terms. Meanwhile, the United States and Japan remained strong. At the Watches & Wonders Geneva event in the spring, many industry insiders predicted an economic downturn in the second half of the year. While August held up, September finally saw a significant drop, prompting some manufacturers to reassess their new product lineups for next year. As a result, next year's new products, like this year's, will likely be more glamorous for the ultra-wealthy, who are unaffected by the economy, while models aimed at the average person will likely be primarily cosmetic.

October: Universal Genève launches, Gregory Kisling becomes CEO of Breguet, and Cubitas

Universal Geneva

An advertisement for the former Universal Genève "Polerouter." The revived Universal Genève has announced the "Polerouter SAS Model," a tribute to SAS (Scandinavian Air System). This model commemorates the 70th anniversary of SAS's flight over the North Pole in 2024.

 Universal Genève had been quiet since its acquisition by Hong Kong capital. However, it began to fully take off in 2023 when it was acquired by CVC, which also acquired Breitling. A press lounge was opened in October 2024. Additionally, the company has invited Gregory Bretin of Roger Dubuis to accelerate product development. With simpler timepieces gaining more attention than sports watches these days, the new Universal Genève could become the next big thing. And on October 1st, Gregory Kisling, formerly of Omega, became CEO of Breguet. No CEO knows watches better than him. Breguet has the potential to become a major player. Also in October, Patek Philippe released the CUBITUS. While it has received mixed reviews, its presence is distinct from the Nautilus.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref.5822P Ref.5821/1AR Ref.5821/1A

(Left) Patek Philippe "Cubitus" Ref. 5821/1A
Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 SC). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 45mm, thickness 8.3mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 653 million yen (tax included).
(Center) Patek Philippe "Cubitus" Ref. 5822P
Automatic (Cal. 240 PS CI J LU). 52 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Pt case (diameter 45mm, thickness 9.6mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 13,990,000 yen (tax included).
(Right) Patek Philippe "Cubitus" Ref. 5821/1AR
Automatic winding (Cal. 26-330 SC). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. SS x 18KRG case (diameter 45mm, thickness 8.3mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 9.7 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109

November: At the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, Otsuka Low-Tech's No. 6 wins the Challenge Watch Award, and Citizen announces its 100th anniversary model.

 With its expanded scale and variety, the Geneva Watch Grand Prix is ​​undeniably less exciting than it once was. However, it is becoming more important than ever for watchmakers. This year, Otsuka Low-Tech's "No. 6" won the Challenge Watch Award. Who would have thought that a watch sold only in Japan would win an award? Given its uniqueness and price, it's no surprise. Incidentally, the Golden Hands Award went to IWC's "Portugieser Eternal Calendar." This is also fitting. Incidentally, in November, Citizen released a 100th-anniversary model: the "Mechanical Model Caliber 0200 'CITIZEN' Brand Watch 100th Anniversary Limited Edition." It's truly a great watch.

Otsuka Low-Tech No. 6 Ref.P06

Otsuka Low-Tech "No. 6" Ref.P06
Automatic winding (MIYOTA9015 + in-house retrograde module). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. SS case (diameter 42.6 mm, thickness 11.8 mm). Water resistant for everyday use. 440,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Otsuka Lotec https://otsuka-lotec.com

December: Sauna Clock released, but sold out immediately

 Casio's crowdfunded sauna watch immediately sold out. It may seem like a joke, but it features a heat-resistant battery capable of withstanding temperatures up to 125 degrees Celsius and a moisture-resistant plastic exterior, making it a serious watch, typical of Casio. Shipments are expected in June of next year. Honestly, I hope this becomes a regular event. Also, Seiko will hold the second installment of its "Extremely Exclusive Watch Exhibition," held in January, on the 20th. Whether it's Casio or Seiko, companies that put young designers and planners at the forefront are sure to thrive. Incidentally, this month, a new color was added to the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40. An extension was also added to the buckle. Other companies will likely follow IWC's lead in the future.

Sa Clock

Casio "S-Watch" Ref. CPP-002-OR
Quartz movement. Resin case (diameter 35.4mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 5 ATM. Sold out. (Inquiries) Casio Computer Customer Service Tel. 0120-088925



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