"A return to a glamorous and diverse era." Watch journalist Norio Takagi selects the top 5 watches released in 2024

This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2024. This time, we will introduce the five watches selected by Norio Takagi, author of books such as "How Wristwatches Work" and "The World's Easiest Way to Understand How Wristwatches Work [Complex Watches]." As Takagi describes 2024 as "a vibrant and diverse era," with models released by a variety of brands, the top five are quite diverse.

1st place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Petite Seconde"

　Putting the price aside, this was the watch that left the most lasting impression on me, with its classic grained dial, newly designed thin hand-wound caliber, and even the texture of the strap. The overall balance is outstanding.

2nd place: Chopard "LUC XPS Forest Green"

　The no-date sector dial and thin automatic micro-rotor movement really struck a chord with me. The pricing, which is likely strategic, is also impressive. The dial and strap colors are beautiful, making it an all-purpose piece.

3rd place: Takano "Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer"

　By obtaining the Besançon Observatory Chronometer certification, we can see his determination to share Japan's outstanding industrial technology with the world. The case design, with its quadratic curved surface based on Zaratsu polishing, is a no-brainer, as you'd expect from Hajime Asaoka.

4th place: Naoya Hida & Co. “NH Type 5A”

　This is an ambitious piece that dares to take on the rectangular design, which has long been considered unpopular. The square movement of the modified Peuzeau 7001 offers a comfortable, solid feel when manually wound. The two-piece domed sapphire crystal is a masterpiece.

5th place: Audemars Piguet "Remaster 02"

　When I was shown it privately just before the announcement, I was told, "You can reserve it now," and I almost replied, "I'll buy it." I like classics, but I also love the unfashionable designs of this era. I hate the prices of gold and foreign exchange.

General comment

　The sound of military boots continues to linger around the world, but as life has almost completely returned to normal this year, the watch industry has returned to a vibrant and diverse era. A number of unique complications, including the central tourbillon, were seen throughout the year, and the skilled movement manufacturers behind these timepieces have once again drawn attention. The high-quality, original timepieces of non-specialty watch brands such as Chanel, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton would not have been possible without them. Time-only watches also competed for individuality, focusing on materials, textures, and colors.

　In particular, the widespread use of PVD for dial coloring has made it easier to control color and texture, which is likely contributing to this diversification. Patek Philippe's hidden gem, the Cubitus, made waves when it was released in October, but I personally find it a welcome trend to see a departure from the all-encompassing "luxury sports" trend and the rise of high-quality classic watches.

　Many brands have also been striving to become more luxurious. It's inevitable that watch prices in Japan are rising further due to the double whammy of soaring gold prices and a weak yen. Amid this, attention is being focused on Japanese micro-maisons like Chrono Tokyo and Otsuka Low-tec, which offer high-quality, original watches at affordable prices. The rush of high-value Japanese bids at the Phillips auction "TOKI" held in Hong Kong in November is still fresh in our memory. This, too, is a symbol of diversification.