Masamasa Hirota revisits the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Despite its weaknesses, "the Speedmaster Pro is the best"

Everyone loves the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, but surprisingly few people own it. I want to emphasize once again that it's a fantastic watch. The price has gone up, and it's not exactly comfortable to wear. But it's exceptionally well-made as a tool watch, and the latest version is anti-magnetic to an astounding 15,000 gauss. Masamasa Hirota, who has been wearing this watch for over three years, talks about its strengths (and weaknesses).

Omega "Speedmaster Professional" purchased four times in the past

　I have probably bought the Speedmaster Professional, or what we would now call the Moonwatch, four times. I have bought the Ref. ST145.022 with Caliber 861 twice, the Ref. 3594.50 with Caliber 1861, and the Master Chronometer-certified Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001.
All of them were good, but the new "310" feels like a tool that can be used anywhere. Even though I complain about it, I still end up using the "Speedmaster" for some reason.

A long introduction

　Omega released the Speedmaster in 1957. Although Omega had been making chronograph watches before, the Speedmaster was created with an entirely new purpose. There were two main differences from previous models: an inner case that improved magnetic resistance, and a highly legible dial inspired by automobile instruments.

　Despite having a 12-hour counter, the Cal.321 movement it houses has a diameter of only 27mm (12 lignes). This is significantly smaller than the Valjoux 72 (29.3mm diameter: 13 lignes), Venus 178 (31.6mm diameter: 14 lignes), and Universal's 285 series (14, 15 lignes, and even larger).

　Designer Albert Piguet was asked by Omega to create a chronograph movement that could be housed in a waterproof case. Fortunately, Lemania had advanced pressing technology, which was crucial in miniaturizing the movement. The column wheel is a testament to this pressing technology. According to Omega, Lemania actually stamped the column wheel using a press. No other manufacturer had stamped a column wheel, which is normally shaped by cutting, using a press, especially in the 1940s.

　Omega, which had access to small movements, was one of the first to add a chronograph to the Seamaster, and in 1957 released the Speedmaster (later the Speedmaster Professional), which combined a waterproof case with an anti-magnetic inner case.

The latest Speedmaster without an inner case

　The Speedmaster Professional has remained largely unchanged since 1957. However, in 2021, it evolved into the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, which dispensed with the antimagnetic case but still achieved a 15,000 gauss magnetic resistance. Prior to this, I had heard from an Omega insider that the Speedmaster Professional would become a Master Chronometer. It is theoretically impossible to make a chronograph, which has more metal components than a typical movement, resistant to 15,000 gauss. However, Omega replaced 15 of the chronograph's components with non-magnetic materials and achieved Master Chronometer certification. When I heard about this, I told CEO Raynald Aeschlimann, "If such a watch were to come out, I'd buy it," and "Then let's deliver the first one in Japan to you."

　Although I wasn't the first in Japan, I ended up getting my hands on one of the earliest batches of Speedmaster Moonwatch Professionals. I chose the Hesalite, or plastic, model (Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001) over the sapphire crystal model (Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002). The reason is simple: it feels more "Speedmaster." While sapphire crystal is durable, if it were to break inside a spacecraft, it could injure the crew and equipment. For this reason, Omega still offers models with plastic crystals in their lineup, which are safe even if they break. However, the weight difference is negligible, with the sapphire crystal version weighing in at 138g and the plastic version at 134g. It doesn't affect the wearer's comfort as much as previous models.

It's a Speedmaster Pro, including the fit.

　In 2006, I wrote the following note: "The Speedmaster is a timeless classic. However, I have never been satisfied with the fit. There seem to be several reasons for this. One is the shape of the current bracelet. Not only are the links large, but the front and back are the same shape and the surface is rounded. This reduces the contact area with the skin, making it unstable to wear. In particular, the Ref. 3573 with a sapphire crystal crystal and sapphire crystal case back, combined with the weight of the head (i.e. the watch part), makes the fit poor."

　The latest Speedmaster Moonwatch is significantly lighter thanks to the elimination of the antimagnetic case. The bracelet is also of much higher quality than its predecessor. Furthermore, the watch's overall length is noticeably shorter due to the reduced protrusion of the bow tube. So, does this mean the watch feels dramatically more comfortable? Actually, not really. Perhaps to reduce weight, Omega over-tapered the bracelet. The extremely tapered bracelet, measuring 20mm at the case and 16mm at the buckle, while lighter, is still somewhat inadequate for supporting the heavy Speedmaster's head. Personally, I think the balance between the "head" and "butt" would have been significantly improved if the buckle had been 20mm or even 18mm. Incidentally, this is a weakness that the latest Rolex also has.

　The crown is still as difficult to wind as ever. The Speedmaster, whose ultimate goal is to ensure unbreakability, has a crown embedded in the case, even though it is a manual-winding watch. While this certainly makes it less likely that the winding core of the crown will be damaged even if it is bumped, winding the mainspring is still quite a pain. Don't expect the ease of winding to be as good as a model equipped with the reissued Cal. 321.

　Incidentally, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional from the early production runs had excessively sharp edges. The same was true of the Seamaster from the same period; when worn, the "Seahorse" mark on the case back was clearly visible on the wrist. Omega has made the exterior extremely precise, but perhaps they went a little too far. Perhaps reflecting on this, the latest model has rounded off the edges and the engraving on the case back has been softened slightly. Even Omega may have gone too far. The 2021 Speedmaster Professional is extremely well made, but a little unbalanced. Again, the latest model is more subdued.

Despite this, "Speedmaster Pro" is the best

　The fit isn't great, and the first batch I got was a bit too edgy. Despite this, I'd say the Speedmaster Pro is one of the best watches ever. The one I got had a dynamic accuracy of within +2 seconds. It's also anti-magnetic to over 15,000 gauss, and the dial has been engraved and infused with luminous paint, making the indices glow much brighter than before. The combination of a moderately roughened black dial and white hands and inscriptions makes for excellent legibility. This is especially evident when using this watch for radio recordings. The ability to instantly tell how many minutes have been measured at a glance is a unique feature. It's no wonder astronauts use this watch.

　Incidentally, the fit isn't bad either. It feels a bit strange at first, but after adjusting the bracelet and winding it snugly, it becomes unnoticeable after about three days. No one is looking for the comfort of a Bulgari Octo Finissimo watch on a Speedmaster, so this is probably fine as it is. At the very least, it's not as heavy on the head as before, so I think it's easy to get used to the unique Speedmaster feel. The difficulty of winding the crown is also a "promise" of enjoying a Speedmaster watch. Enduring the difficulty, winding the crown conveys the rigidity of this classic watch, whose basic design dates back more than 80 years.

　In the past, watch enthusiasts were expected to buy a Rolex Explorer I or a Speedmaster. These two classics were certainly a rite of passage for any watch lover, and I personally feel that they were a part of that process. However, the prices of both watches have risen, making them less accessible. Nevertheless, if you're interested, I highly recommend trying out the latest Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. While the design has remained unchanged for over 50 years, the internals have evolved to the point where they're practically a completely different watch. There's one caveat: don't expect a great fit. While it boasts a high-quality exterior, this is still a tool watch, not a piece of jewelry. If you don't get that wrong, the latest Speedmaster Professional should become a timeless staple. At least, I've been using it for over three years now.