Although their watches and bags are different, I think Zenith and Porter are very similar brands. They are both simple, sturdy, and stylish. There's no way that the Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter Edition chronograph, a collaboration between the two, could be bad. It's bound to be good. And its quality is immediately apparent even to the average person who isn't familiar with watches.

Photographs & Text by Tomoshige Kase
[Article published on January 29, 2024]
Be praised by anyone, anywhere, anytime
The editorial team at Chronos Japan is lending me a Zenith Chrono. I'm so excited! It's an El Primero, after all. And it's a collaboration with Porter. The loan period is two weeks. My adventure with Zenith seems long but short, so I want to wear it even while I sleep.
So, what kind of watch was the Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter Edition (hereafter referred to as "Pilot")? The answer is, "A chronograph that will be complimented by anyone, anytime, anywhere."
So in the second half of this review, you'll find plenty of scenes where I (actually the watch) is praised. Like, "Wow, it's so cute! It suits you!" That's right, to put it bluntly, it's a bit frivolous. But I'll write as honestly as possible. Here are the impressions of others who have seen this "Pilot," as well as my own personal impressions.

Automatic movement (Cal. El Primero 3652). 26 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 42.5mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide. Price: 2,046,000 yen (tax included).
Stress-free lightness and comfort
Let me start with my first impression. It's lovely...I'm fascinated. First of all, the color is great. The orange hands stand out against the rugged khaki case and dial (commonly known as olive green, but in keeping with the brand's name and military color tradition). The coloring is reminiscent of the MA-1 flight jacket. It's very masculine and surprisingly matches any outfit.

What struck me as refreshing was its lightness. I had always imagined Zenith chronographs as having a sturdy, rugged impression, in a good way, and the heavy feel of the watch when worn gave it a sense of reliability. However, the case of this "Pilot" is made of ceramic. The bracelet is made of fabric sewn onto a rubber base, and is also light.

Of course, there's no right or wrong answer when it comes to whether a watch is heavy or light, as it depends on your preferences and the occasion. But after wearing one for two weeks straight, I've come to appreciate the lightness of it. I understand the merits of wool-melton duffle coats and mouton jackets, but I find myself wearing my down jacket more often. It's just so comfortable.
The straps are attached and detached using hook-and-loop fasteners. They are commonly called Velcro or Magic Tape, and are the type that you peel off. Ah, I see, even here the lineage of the Porter "Tanker" (just Google it) series is evident. Velcro fasteners are often used on the flap pockets of "Tanker" bags and wallets. It's an iconic detail, so to speak. The Porter name tag is also significant. It gives the whole thing a neat, sleek look.
It's also incredibly comfortable to wear. The fabric and stitching don't feel like they're touching your skin, and the Velcro fastener allows for subtle size adjustments, which is a given. It's no problem if your wrists swell after drinking and eating too much over the holiday season. However, the slightly raised edges of the Velcro fastener that extend slightly out from the sides can rub against the cuffs of your clothing. Be careful, though, as this can cause pilling on delicate cashmere knits and wool jackets. Well, that's unavoidable. Of course, it's no problem during the short-sleeve season.

The straps are interchangeable. Simply press the button on the back and push the strap up to remove it. To reattach it, simply hook it onto the spring bar and pull. It's reattached with a satisfying click. Even I, a naturally clumsy person who has always been intimidated by interchangeable straps from other companies, found it so easy that anyone can do it. A Cordura-effect khaki rubber strap is also included as an option. Enjoy using different straps depending on your mood or outfit.
Starting tomorrow, I'll be with this (gross) "pilot" all the time. I wonder how others will view me. Well, I can only hope.
Case 1: Man in his 30s: "Uh, it's so smooth."
I went to the editorial office of a fashion magazine. Just as we were finishing up the YouTube recording of our annual sneaker roundtable, editor A approached me. He's a father of two in his mid-30s.
"Oh, I found Kase-san. What are you doing? Are you recording?"
...Tsk. A is in charge of watches for a magazine, so he's a real connoisseur. He has an incredibly keen nose for watches, and once he's sniffed one, he'll come over and say, "That's nice, isn't it?" in a familiar manner. This time, I wanted to hear the opinions of someone who isn't an expert on watches.
"Today's watch is nice too. Oh, it's a Porter collaboration! Can I take a look?"
He's as familiar as ever. I have no choice but to hand him the "Pilot."
"Wow, the movement of the second hand is so smooth! Can I tweak the flyback? It's an El Primero, as you'd expect. But it's over 200 million yen, right? It's a really popular watch, after all."
What's that all about? He seemed to think that the watch I bought and I were popular, but it was too much trouble so I just let him be. It was pure coincidence that A found him, but at any rate, I was happy that he praised me.

Case 2: Woman in her 20s: "I wonder if I should try a regular watch like this?"
Today's interview is with an import trading company that handles sports-related products.
The lineup was Ms. B, a public relations representative, the company president, and an athlete supported by the trading company. I've been working in this job for about two years, so I'm familiar with everyone.
While setting up the shoot, I chatted with Ms. B, a wellness-conscious woman who commutes by bicycle and enjoys running and yoga. Of course, she was wearing an Apple Watch. I fiddled with the "Pilot" on the table in a rather dramatic way to show it off.

"Oh, your watch today is lovely. The khaki and orange colour is lovely. Is it a Porter watch?"
I hand her the "Pilot" and tell her it's a chronograph from the historic brand Zenith.
"It's so light! I thought it would be heavier. It has a nice active feel to it. I think I'll try a regular watch like this too."
Of course, this "Pilot" is not an ordinary watch at all, but to her it probably looks like an ordinary watch with a round case and hour and minute hands. How would she react if she found out that this "ordinary watch" costs over 200 million yen?
"Huh? Does it have diamonds or other jewels?"
I see, that's how it is. But don't laugh at Mr. B's words. This reaction is probably the standard in society. When you're immersed in the watch industry, you lose sight of this kind of "normal sense." It's a test of others, isn't it? In any case, the look and feel of the watch were highly praised by young women. Is it just a polite gesture? It's fine. Those who believe will be saved.
Case 3: Woman in her 40s: "I think he has good taste," Man in his 40s: "If we were talking about cars, it would be an Audi A4."
An early New Year's dinner was organized by Ms. C (female), an editor of a certain business magazine. The other person in attendance was Mr. D (male), a photographer.
"How's work been lately?" asked Mr. C.
The economy is recovering, but sales aren't increasing. It goes without saying that the writing industry is dwindling due to the rapid advances in text generation AI. It's a lame response.
"That being said, it's a nice watch. It's new, isn't it?"
It seems that "Pilot" caught the eye of Mr. C.
Oh, can you tell? Well, it's the watch I wear to work.

"It's not flashy, but it's not too serious either. It has a bit of a playful feel to it. It's a really good style."
This is... I'm so happy. I asked photographer D what he thought of it. He seems to know about Zenith.
"I'm not that knowledgeable about watches, but when I see someone wearing a Zenith, I think, 'They really know what they're talking about.' In terms of cars, it would be the Audi A4 Allroad Quattro. I think of it as a watch chosen by watch lovers."
It wasn't my watch, but it still felt good. I got drunk and cocky, and accidentally blurted out, "I'll take care of this." Damn it. I'm a stingy person at heart, but I'm also a show-off. Because of this innate nature, I've repeatedly overlooked my own limitations and fallen into self-loathing. Mr. C and Mr. D told me, despite my shallowness, "No, let's split the bill." I would like to take this opportunity to thank these two compassionate and intelligent people.
Me: "On the other hand, is there anything you don't like about it?"
The two weeks I borrowed "Pilot" went by in a flash. Looking back at my calendar, I was out and about almost every day, including weekends. And the feedback I got from people who noticed "Pilot" while out and about was all entirely positive.

In fact, I told those who noticed that I would be writing a review, and I kept asking them, "Is there anything you don't like about it?" But even so, everyone unanimously said, "Not at all. It's really good."
People usually have something to say, like they don't like the color or shape, it's too expensive for them, it's too heavy and uncomfortable... But with this "Pilot," there were no such opinions at all.
By the way, my wife, who is in her 40s, commented, "It's nice" (simply), and my son, who is in his mid-teens, said, "Oh, it's nice!" (firmly). This is a watch that gets "likes" from both watch enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts, regardless of gender or age. I think this is quite rare.
Zenith and Porter are amazing as always.



