The lightweight titanium exterior further enhances its merits. A free-flowing discussion of the Japan-limited Girard-Perregaux Laureato model.

In this series, the editorial staff of Chronos Japan gives their impressions of popular models and discusses them. This time, we're wearing the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Indigo Japan Limited Edition. This watch has been highly praised not only for its chic dial color, but also for its mature exterior and movement.

The Laureato Indigo Japan Limited Edition is inspired by the Japanese indigo color.

HosodaThis time, we have the "Laureato Chronograph Indigo Japan Limited Edition," which commemorates the 160th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Japan and Switzerland. As the model name suggests, the dial is indigo, or Japan Blue. In addition to the chronograph, a three-hand model with a stainless steel case and a Grand Feu enamel dial was also released at the same time. What did you all think of it after actually wearing it?

HirotaThe fit was good.

(I.e.The bracelet was smooth and comfortable to wear.

big bridgeWhen I heard that the exterior was made of titanium, I thought it would be very light before wearing it, but I was surprised to find that it had a surprisingly comfortable weight, and I realized that it had been adjusted to an exquisite weight.

HirotaThat's a good expression.

HosodaThe regular stainless steel Laureato also has a good wearing comfort, but I felt that the titanium version made it even more unique.

HirotaThat's right! A lot of the recent rugged sports clubs have tapered bracelets, which I don't think are suitable for heavy clubheads, but the Laureato's head isn't that heavy to begin with, and the exterior is now all titanium, making it much lighter. However, in my case, although it fit my wrist perfectly, the bracelet links were quite large...

(I.e.Because the links are large, they are difficult to adjust, so it would have been better if the buckle had a fine adjustment mechanism.

HosodaThese days, even folding buckles can be finely adjusted. I understand that it's difficult to process because it's titanium, but I wish the buckle had a little more ingenuity. However, since the watch is light overall, I don't think it would be too hard to loosen it and still feel comfortable.

(I.e.Being light is an advantage in every way, and the case is also thin at 12.1mm, so if the buckle could be fine-tuned for those who want a snug fit, it could provide an even better fit. Since the exterior has matured so far, I hope the buckle will also mature further.

(I.e.By the way, how much was it?

HosodaPriced at 2,805,000 yen. Limited to 100 bottles.

(I.e.Considering the recent dramatic price increases, a titanium-cased chronograph for under 300 million yen seems reasonable.

HirotaI think so. It doesn't seem bad.

Skillfully polished and featuring an octagonal design

HosodaI also liked the color of the exterior. It's quite white and doesn't look like titanium at first glance.

(I.e.The finish was beautiful and I was very satisfied. The crown is reflected without distortion on the bezel, which is proof that it has been polished well.

big bridgeAlso, the hairline finish running horizontally gives it a special shine. It has a strange presence when viewed from a distance, and the satisfaction is great when you actually wear it.

(I.e.Furthermore, the bezel has an interesting concentric hairline pattern, which is effectively combined with polishing. It's not as sharp as the Royal Oak, but has a gentleness to it in a good way, which I think is also not bad.

HirotaThe design is well done.

HosodaThis was designed by an architect based on the dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence, Italy.

(I.e.There is also a lie going around called the Genta theory (bitter smile).

HirotaGirard-Perregaux claims that no documentation remains of the designer, but after some research I have found that it was designed by an architect.

(I.e.It's a design that effectively incorporates an octagon within a circle. The chronograph in particular has concentric grooves on the counters and small seconds, further emphasizing the circle, while the dial has a square element with a Clous de Paris pattern, and I really like this combination. I can totally see why it's described as an architectural model.

HosodaAs you all probably know, the design of the first generation Laureato didn't follow the rigid rules of luxury sports cars. When the second and third generations came out in the '90s, it became too massive and went in a strange direction, but in 2016 a limited edition model was released, and the following year it became a regular model. The design has been refined all at once since 2016. This was before the luxury sports car boom took off, so I think that led to the relaxed, rounded design that Yukiya mentioned earlier.

(I.e.The Laureato was heading in a slightly strange direction when Antonio Cartier was in charge (wry smile). Now it has landed in a good shape, and the exterior has matured and is very good.

HirotaAlthough it is often perceived in the context of luxury sports, I think it is worth trying out the Laureato as a model that can actually be used for everyday use.

A classically structured movement with a sense of maturity

HirotaThe movement is the company's own 3300 series movement, and although the power reserve is short at about 46 hours, the feel of setting the hands and the sound of the rotor are characteristic of a high-end watch. It also wound well even when mainly doing desk work.

(I.e.It's a 3300 series with a small second hand at 3 o'clock, so it's a DD (Dubois-Dépraz). But it wasn't bad at all. The design and module are a little old, but it's mature enough to give it a sense of stability.

HirotaThat's right. The 3300 series is a thicker version of the 3100, with the basic design created in 1993-4. Also, the placement issues that are common with DD modules weren't that noticeable. By placement issues, I mean the time lag between when the second hand starts moving and when the hours and minutes start moving. The first 3100-equipped models had placement issues when you pushed the crown in, and when you put the DD module on top of that, the misalignment was ridiculous. So, when I look at DDs, I pay a lot of attention to placement issues, but this time it was kept to a level that wasn't really noticeable, so I thought it was quite excellent.

(I.e.I wonder if the precision of the connecting parts is improving.

HirotaI think so. The DD module on an in-house movement was a common configuration in the 90s, but it seemed like they were making detailed adjustments. I think this is about as far as reasonable improvements can go, but I'd be happy if the power reserve was increased a little more.

HosodaThe size makes you feel that the design is old, but it's a good machine when you wear it. Speaking of enthusiasts, the DD module chronograph has a smaller base than the ETA7750 series, so it can be installed in any watch. In that sense, it's a very versatile and good movement.

HirotaYes. And in terms of maintenance, the de-clutch part is a fairly simple one like the ETA type, but the 3300 series basically has a place where you can oil the de-clutch. Girard-Perregaux has actually thought it through.

(I.e.After all, it has matured over a long period of use.

The limited edition "indigo" color is a calm tone that goes well with suits.

HosodaSo, what about the dial color? The two limited edition models deliberately do not have the same indigo color, so it's a little difficult to discuss.

(I.e.But indigo can be dyed multiple times, from light to near-black. Even after dyeing, the color can change over time as you wash it. That said, I feel like a deeper blue is more in keeping with the image of indigo.

HosodaAs for the chronograph, the color was darker, or rather, less saturated, giving it a calm atmosphere and good visibility. The Clou de Paris pattern itself has the property of reducing diffused light reflection, so in that sense I think it's a very versatile color.

(I.e.It goes well with the black counter.

HirotaIf they had made it into something like a reverse panda, I think it would have looked like a super sports watch.

(I.e.That's right. With this color, you can wear it without looking too sporty. You can also pair it with a suit.

HosodaI think Girard-Perregaux has been playing with colors in recent years in an interesting way, and the new sage green is a really exquisite color.

HirotaIt certainly seems as though Girard-Perregaux has found a way to thrive in color.

HosodaWhat about the dial design? If you put a 26mm diameter movement into a 42mm case diameter chronograph, the dial layout would probably be even more disruptive, but it's been done well.

(I.e.It's not that far from the center.

HirotaThis is probably because the module on top is huge. The chronograph module is probably about 30mm in diameter.

(I.e.The octagonal shape and fringe placed within the rounded bezel actually add width, but they've cleverly managed to hide it. The date is a little close to the watch, but maybe it would have been fine without the date.

HosodaIf they had removed the date as a limited edition, it might have felt even more special. Japanese people don't need dates! (laughs)

HirotaAnother personal request is that the GP logo is too big (lol).

(I.e.That's what I thought. Has it always been this big? The GP logo is big, but the GIRARD-PERREGAUX and bridge underneath it are also a bit too noticeable. Come to think of it, when did they get this?

HosodaI think this layout has been around for quite some time on the Laureato... If you check the archives, the 2016 model has 1791 instead of a bridge.

(I.e.That would have been better. The current logo is a bit annoying. It reminds me of the old Grand Seiko dials that had SG, SEIKO, and Grand Seiko on them.

HosodaI think the logo is this size to balance it with the third counter.

(I.e.Well, it may be true if you say that the third subdial and logo are arranged in a diamond shape. However, if you do that, the logo on the three-hand model looks even larger (wry smile).

HosodaSpecial dials, such as those made of enamel or natural stone, have a large GP logo affixed to them, whereas regular three-hand watches have a smaller, typeset logo.

(I.e.The exterior has matured so much that it would have been better if they had toned down the dial a bit more. The date and this bridge are unnecessary. They're a bit too assertive.

The chronograph pushers are well designed, but...

HosodaFinally, one thing I'd like to say about the chronograph: I found the screw-down pushers surprisingly difficult to use. I opened the screw lock to start the chronograph, and when I tried to stop it, the screws had already returned, so there were several times when I couldn't stop it when I wanted to. This is a fatal flaw in terms of the watch's intended use as a chronograph, so I think it's an area that needs improvement.

(I.e.I haven't heard much about screws coming loose on SS, so I wonder if titanium doesn't have a deep enough thread? They've worked hard on the titanium exterior, but it's a bit disappointing that this happened.

HirotaTomonari Nakagawa, an independent watchmaker and co-founder of KIKUCHI NAKAGAWA, praised the ease with which the push button can be opened. However, from Hosoyan's review, we learned that while it is easy to open, it also closes easily.

(I.e.Certainly, if the lock is too hard, it puts strain on your fingers and you don't want to use it. If you don't use it, it will get stuck even more.

HosodaIt's a difficult request, but I would be happy if the lock could be improved so that it is easier to open and close, and less likely to close while in use.

(I.e.However, since I only use the chronograph a little, the screw locking mechanism doesn't bother me at all. It's perfect for using the chronograph for fashion purposes.

HosodaThe pusher lock is originally intended to waterproof and prevent accidental operation, but with the performance of modern gaskets, it is possible to achieve 10 bar water resistance without screwing in the push button, so it is now a design feature.

HirotaBasically, considering the character of the Laureato, isn't it about time we stopped screwing around?

(I.e.However, the Laureato's bezel, crown, and pusher lock are all octagonal.

HosodaThe watch has a very rounded design, so these octagonal details are certainly an accent, so I think it might be a good idea to make the pusher octagonal and do away with the screw-down mechanism.

In terms of overall satisfaction, this is a great value model!

HirotaAlthough we found some areas for improvement, such as fine-tuning the buckle and the chronograph pushers, the overall evaluation after wearing it was surprisingly good.

(I.e.It's a watch that you'll appreciate in many ways when you wear it. The ease of handling and the good balance between the hairline and polished finish were better than I expected.

HosodaThe size is 42mm, which might be a little large compared to the current trend, but I didn't feel it was too big when I wore it, and it felt really comfortable on the wrist. Comparing the Japan Limited models, the three-hand model is Grand Feu enamel and costs 2,585,000 yen, while this one has a chronograph and is titanium and costs 2,805,000 yen, so it might actually be a good deal.

(I.e.The three hands are stainless steel, so if you say so, the Chrono is certainly a good deal. I think it's worth buying.