The editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan covered Watches & Wonders 2024, a trade fair for new releases in the watch industry. This article, which was featured in the magazine as a "Revolution in Exteriors," is republished on webChronos. This time, we focus on Roger Dubuis, which has launched a number of masterpieces under the motto of "Hyperhorology."
Photographs by Takafumi Okuda, Yu Mitamura
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited & Text by Chronos Japan Edition (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Roger Dubuis: Hyperhorology sets the tone
Since adopting the motto "Hyperhorology," Roger Dubuis has become known for its serious structure. While it could be said that this is simply a manifestation of their original character, the 2023 "Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph" is certainly a "hyper" masterpiece that only this company could create.
In 2024, Orbis released four models as a tribute to the tourbillon, creating a truly impressive lineup led by the central tourbillon "Orbis in Machina."
A new, unmistakable piece that is typical of Roger Dubuis today. It features a display similar to the 2022 "Round Table," but with a completely new design. Its size is now more practical. The mechanism is complex, but the feel of setting the hands is also good. Manual winding (Cal. RD115). 29 jewels. 21,600 vph. Approximately 72-hour power reserve. 18KPG case (45mm diameter, 14.41mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 28 pieces worldwide.
My personal recommendation is the "Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium" with its titanium exterior. It is made from a different material than the existing model, but without any complicated mechanisms, it stands out for its excellent balance and lightness that makes it suitable for everyday use. It is so well-made that it would not be out of place as a regular model, rather than a limited edition of 28 pieces.
Roger Dubuis' answer to sporty haute horlogerie. The combination of a lean, sturdy skeleton and a simple tourbillon gear train emphasizes the modern design. Honestly, it's a shame that only 28 pieces are available. Manual winding (Cal. RD512SQ). 19 jewels. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Titanium case (42mm diameter, 12.62mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 21,175,000 yen.
Roger Dubuis has finally come to define a clear direction, and hopefully this style will become established.
This skeletonized version features a deliberately modern dragon design. According to Bretin, the watch's director, "A regular Métiers d'Art wouldn't be interesting." This year's Roger Dubuis watches are not just about this one; they're also adept at using white space. Manual-winding (Cal. RD512SQ). 19 jewels. Approximately 72 hours of power reserve. 18KPG case (42mm diameter, 12.62mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Limited to 28 pieces worldwide.
(Right) Roger Dubuis "Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon"
This model is made from a different material than the existing model, but features a double tourbillon and a total of 108 gemstones. The quick-release system makes strap changes easy. Manual-winding (Cal. RD108SQ). 32 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 45mm, thickness 14.66mm). Water resistant to 10 bar.
Interview with Roger Dubuis' Gregory Bourtin
Gregory Bretin is now becoming a leading designer not only for Roger Dubuis, but for the Richemont Group as a whole. A "favorite disciple" of founder Roger Dubuis, he has begun to graft classical techniques and details onto his original engineering background. Bretin explained to us about the 2024 masterpiece "Orbis in Machina." With this model featuring a central tourbillon, Bretin said, "I wanted to go back to the basics of Roger Dubuis."
Born in Switzerland in 1977, he studied watchmaking theory at the Neuchâtel Engineering School and then earned a master's degree at the Ecole Arc. In 2002, he joined Roger Dubuis, where he was involved in the development of automatic movements, minute repeaters, and skeleton movements. He served as head of the movement development department before assuming his current position.
With Orbis in Machina, I wanted to go back to Roger Dubuis' basics.
"Compared to the 2022 central flying tourbillon, the ORBIS IN MAKINA has a thinner movement and case. To achieve this, we changed the winding, time setting and gear train, and added the planetary gear used for winding to the regular gear train. This is not something that is usually done, but we have the know-how. Furthermore, to improve transmission efficiency, the teeth used in the planetary gear are processed using electroforming and lasers. We also use ceramic ball bearings. Without these parts, I think it would have been difficult to support the central flying tourbillon." Indeed, these are modern solutions that only today's engineers could come up with.
"If you take a Roger Dubuis watch from 2000 and give it a modern makeover, you get the Orbis In Machina. It wasn't something I was aiming for, it just happened that way," is probably the honest opinion of the man who struggled to create this unprecedented masterpiece. However, Bretin is a direct disciple of Roger Dubuis, who has made a name for himself by creating classic watches.
"I think designers need to learn the technique of creating space in the movement, because creating space allows them to make the movement thinner. But this time, I wanted to incorporate the teachings of Roger Dubuis into the movement. To add depth to the design, I looked at movements that Dubuis had made in the past and added details like pocket watches. That's why I made the base plate and other parts thick. Also, thickness makes the sides look rich." His new "Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon" is a watch that evokes his affection for his "master." With 108 gemstones set into the bezel and movement, this piece could be seen, in a mean way, as nothing more than a derivative of the popular rainbow design. However...
"Roger Dubuis had to get up in the dark every morning to attend the watchmaking school in Geneva. At dawn, he would see the sunrise. I wanted to express the scene he saw in a watch. The color of the sunrise is orange, so I deliberately chose garnet as the gemstone."
Having learned about "depth" from Roger Dubuis, Bourtin was asked if he felt he had grown as a designer, to which he replied, "In the past, I was good at multi-layering, but now I think I've evolved into 3D."
